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How can you tell when a flywheel can no longer be resurfaced?

I believe i have had it done at least 2x.
can i resurface the flywheel myself and skip the shaving of it?


Thanks

check it for true flatness by using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, if you are only a few thousandths out then it should be good, you can skip the shaving down of it, mind you if it were me and you have gone through all the work to remove the trans and what not I would do it anyhow for peace of mind.

i am not sure if i can make it any thinner.
last time i had to get a new clutch slave pin so that there could be a little more reach to release the clutch.

i am considering adding a little bit of material (maybe cold weld) to the tip of the pin to make it a little longer for more push.

what is a good process to clean off the flywheel at home? would a brass wire brush on a drill work to remove the old clutch pad material?

Thanks

As mentioned above, check your surface for flatness, if its good and the clutch never got overheated from slipping, creating any nasty hotspots or warpage, then just get some 3M nyloc pads, use a corded or cordless drill and remove the glaze from the surface, and reinstall your clutch. I use this method with brake rotors as well that are not grooved or have a lip on the edge. works great.

I personally don't like getting the flywheel surface machined, because of exactly what you described. As it becomes thinner it screws with the geometry of the whole system