MX-3.com

Where the hell do I get ball joints for my car ? lol..

I've been to Checker , Autozone and Henderson and they all carry the same 'style' but the ball joint shaft is too large to fit into the hub and it is noticeably larger just by looking at it.

I see NAPA carries like 5 different 'makes' of lower ball joints for the 1992 MX-3 GS but would they carry the right one ? I don't feel like dropping $120 each at the dealer.

When I look at this one : http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 42+2042041#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

it looks like the same one however its calling for a 4cylinder motor but the ball joint shaft looks longer and skinnier than the rest of the other brands/models.

ie : http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 42+2042041#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and : http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 42+2042041" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Would this possibly be the right one ?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/M ... 6+Steering" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Try here:

http://www.rockauto.com/index.php?a=autoforums

All MX-3's manufactured from 03/93 on have the larger post. Cars manufactured up to 03/93 use the smaller post you are looking for.

You need:

MOvotech #MK9967
Moog #K9967
Beck Arnley #1014708

Any of those is correct for the 92', all models. The one you want does not fit any other mazda. The one you dont' want fits lots of other mazdas.

For the love of god! lol..thanks guys =)


btw , why the change ?

Heres a video showing 0 resistence on the ball joint and a picture showing the stud.

Oh did I mention...there were no boots on these.


Video : http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/o ... 0_9385.mp4

My guess is that Mazda just wanted to standardize the part. You'll notice that the later ball joint crosses to many other models.

Parts stores don't discriminate for incompetence when they hire.

Wow...the right ones fit so much better. lol...

I got quoted from Firestone over 500 USD for both ball joints.
I got quoted over 300 USD from Les Schwab for both.
I purchased both for 70 from RockAuto.com and a can of PB for 4.99 +35minutes total time = Done.

Thanks for your help guys on the correct parts =D

You drive around on that flat doughnut?

Your camera thinks it's 2004.

That's gotta be a first, well certainly the first ball joint video I've watched and probably the last! Alot of play on that. Well done on the fix. I hope that's a high grade bolt going through the spindle

If what Marc is saying is that you replaced the factory bolt at the spindle/ball joint you are making a mistake. The ball joint is held in the spindle by that bolt sliding into a notch in the ball joint. Thus the factory bolt is only threaded at the end so that part of the bolt that sits inside the ball joint notch is very secure. If you used some random bolt that fits, but is threaded all the way then you have threads sitting in that notch. Enough abuse and the threads are going to fold over and could let the ball joint come loose or slide out all together. Then you are looking at one nasty car accident when the wheel breaks away from the car...

when i redid my mine, they came with new bolts as well for that pinch joint. they were not fully threaded.

PATDIESEL wrote:If what Marc is saying is that you replaced the factory bolt at the spindle/ball joint you are making a mistake. The ball joint is held in the spindle by that bolt sliding into a notch in the ball joint. Thus the factory bolt is only threaded at the end so that part of the bolt that sits inside the ball joint notch is very secure. If you used some random bolt that fits, but is threaded all the way then you have threads sitting in that notch. Enough abuse and the threads are going to fold over and could let the ball joint come loose or slide out all together. Then you are looking at one nasty car accident when the wheel breaks away from the car...

Good to know... I think I just used a straight-threaded high-strength bolt. Shoulda known

You guys in the US might have trouble finding an M10 shouldered bolt. Up here I can go to any fastener supply place and buy one. I would say that if all you can find is a M10 full thread bolt it's not a big deal. I would definitely not use a 3/8" bolt there.

Ryan wrote:You drive around on that flat doughnut?

No..The donut has just deflated from sitting. When I got the car I barely made it 200 miles on the front tires before both blew out because the ball joints were so jacked up it was causing extreme inner tire wear. Probably shouldn't have had my buddy drive it down a canyon in the midst of winter weather LOL.

I have new Falkens but it needs to be running before I can do anything with them :/

wytbishop wrote:Your camera thinks it's 2004.

Yeah I hate my Kodak. Everytime I turn it off after use it resets the date. it's really annoying.

marcdh wrote:That's gotta be a first, well certainly the first ball joint video I've watched and probably the last! Alot of play on that. Well done on the fix. I hope that's a high grade bolt going through the spindle

It's what came with the MOOG ball joint kit. I trust it enough not to abuse it =)

PATDIESEL wrote:If what Marc is saying is that you replaced the factory bolt at the spindle/ball joint you are making a mistake. The ball joint is held in the spindle by that bolt sliding into a notch in the ball joint. Thus the factory bolt is only threaded at the end so that part of the bolt that sits inside the ball joint notch is very secure. If you used some random bolt that fits, but is threaded all the way then you have threads sitting in that notch. Enough abuse and the threads are going to fold over and could let the ball joint come loose or slide out all together. Then you are looking at one nasty car accident when the wheel breaks away from the car...

The kit came with a semi-threaded bolt to replace the OEM one. It's an identical match actually so I don't think I have to worry abotu the ball joint popping out. I also use a ball joint pry bar to try to force it out with the bolt in and it didn't even move .0001 of an inch so it's super snug!