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ok so ive swapped my klde in my mx3 and now it wont start...

the engine is flooding on start up...

at first i thought is was my nissan injectors, so i tried and other fuel map for the 550cc injectors and still did the same, no start and flooding...

so ive put in my milli S injectors and my old msq and thought it wont start up no problem...

but still the same...

i have spark, fuel and air and fuel lines are ok(not reversed) but no start and still using stock FPR...

after i clean the spark plugs and and get the gas out of the cyl, and try to start it it starts for 2 secs then dies, so i check plugs and there soaked in gas...

so please someone help me figure out the problem!

thanks
john

I'm still wondering if your stock FPR has busted because of the walbro 255. Are you using the same FPR on the millenia and nissan rails?

If you have your accelerator all the way to the floor MS will go into flood clear mode, so no fuel will be injected. If there's some already there then the engine should pick up.

Make sure all your inputs are working, CLT, IAT should be roughly the temperature outside from a cold start. Make sure your TPS ADC counts are calibrated too.

marcdh wrote:I'm still wondering if your stock FPR has busted because of the walbro 255. Are you using the same FPR on the millenia and nissan rails?

If you have your accelerator all the way to the floor MS will go into flood clear mode, so no fuel will be injected. If there's some already there then the engine should pick up.

Make sure all your inputs are working, CLT, IAT should be roughly the temperature outside from a cold start. Make sure your TPS ADC counts are calibrated too.

yes i used the same fpr but i just tried an other fpr from a working car and same results...

one thing i noticed is that the clt says -40 and the gauge is pink in megatune?

i tought my sensor didn't work so i bought a new one and it still read the same, is that normal? would a fukced clt sensor make it run extra rich?

i have a video showing the megatune gauges while trying to start it, maybe it could help? i also have a datalog of it while trying to start...

if anyone wants the see the datelog and video i can send them to you!

any help is appreciated
thanks

Yes! -40 means it isn't working at all! I think MS just dumps in fuel to stay safe with no working CLT. Check your ground for the CLT (if you're not sharing with stock ecu). Check your MS CLT wire is properly tapped in. Green wire I think on my MS harness.

[quote="marcdh"]Yes! -40 means it isn't working at all! I think MS just dumps in fuel to stay safe with no working CLT. Check your ground for the CLT (if you're not sharing with stock ecu). Check your MS CLT wire is properly tapped in. Green wire I think on my MS harness.[/quote

ok so all of this BS can be cause of a non working clt sensor?

my clt wire is yellow!

ill check that tonight!

thanks alot marcdh

Megamanual wrote:MegaSquirt has a coolant temperature sensor (CLT) that is electrically identical to the IAT sensor. It functions in exactly the same fashion as the IAT, but it is used only for warm-up enrichment, cranking pulse width determination, and controlling the fidle valve. At low temperature, fuel vaporizes poorly, and more fuel is needed to ensure enough vaporized fuel for adequate combustion.

So your MS thinks it's -40, that's alot of dumping fuel compensation for the temperature!

Also, as a test you could swap your CLT into your IAT to check MS is processing the signal correctly.

I hope I'm right, but it is an important sensor, so it would make sense it's ruining your startup. If it doesn't send me log. I'm no pro, but I've had to do a fair bit of troubleshooting.

marcdh wrote:

Megamanual wrote:MegaSquirt has a coolant temperature sensor (CLT) that is electrically identical to the IAT sensor. It functions in exactly the same fashion as the IAT, but it is used only for warm-up enrichment, cranking pulse width determination, and controlling the fidle valve. At low temperature, fuel vaporizes poorly, and more fuel is needed to ensure enough vaporized fuel for adequate combustion.

So your MS thinks it's -40, that's alot of dumping fuel compensation for the temperature!

Also, as a test you could swap your CLT into your IAT to check MS is processing the signal correctly.

I hope I'm right, but it is an important sensor, so it would make sense it's ruining your startup. If it doesn't send me log. I'm no pro, but I've had to do a fair bit of troubleshooting.

ok ill check that tonight and will get back to you!

ill make an other log too

yeah i saw your post about having trouble with ur ms too!

it just suck that you put so much time and money and there always something wrong at the end! but i guess its part of the modding game!

thx

I know, there's always something bugging me! The challenge is all part of it eh? Good luck. Frustrating bits like this are not so fun

ok now it turns out that my coolant and iat sensor were mixed up...

now i have no more spark! wtf...

ill look tonight what going on, thats wierd!

Ahha wiring issues eh... How's it going now? Got spark back?

ok now i have spark!

it starts for like 10 secs then it stalls!

but its gettin there!

ok now i have spark, fixed my coolant sensor...

but still aint starting well! its wierd...

my mechanic pluged in the computer and it said crank sensor and cam sensor...

could that be the problem?

my setup is a klde with klze cams and curve neck ze IM...

anyways heres a video of it trying to start...

http://s470.photobucket.com/albums/rr69 ... G_3225.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://s470.photobucket.com/albums/rr69 ... G_3228.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

i also did an other datalog if anyone is interrested...

thanks for helping guys!

Is your timing belt on there perfect?

I had a similar problem with bad wiring diagrams for my standalone - turns out one
injector was on all the time and flooding it.

Check each injector plug with a multimeter and make sure they have 12v when the
key is in the on position.

They fire when the voltage grounds to zero, so if any are zero volts that injector
is firing at all times.

Mi|<E wrote:Is your timing belt on there perfect?

I had a similar problem with bad wiring diagrams for my standalone - turns out one
injector was on all the time and flooding it.

Check each injector plug with a multimeter and make sure they have 12v when the
key is in the on position.

They fire when the voltage grounds to zero, so if any are zero volts that injector
is firing at all times.

belt is right on!

im using the same seutup "ms,msd,milliS injectors" i had last year which worked ok...

Check the injector wiring, unless you had this same MS running before?
Not enough background to know whether you did or not

Is there a pool of gas in any of the cylinders?

If yes then one or more injector is on all the time