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im getting the klze engine for my 92 mx3 and im trying to find a clutch that will work for me. Im not going to do much to the engine but a few bolt on's so i dont want anything super fancy but i want it to perform well. I found this clutch on ebay and wanted some reviews from the experts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-STAG ... ccessories" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

i dont know much about clutches but i posted the same thing a few weeks ago and herd the xtd and the f1 racing clutches are supposed to suck. i googled about it too and alot of people say they preform well at first but they start to slip at higher rpms within a couple of months and they dont last as long as others. i was recommended the exedy oem clutch for around the same price. the different stages are mainly for the ammount of grip it has and how sensitive it is. higher stages are also for a more powerful engine.

i ordered the exedy oem and im planning on installing it on my new k8 motor this weekend. if your not in a rush i can let you know how it performs compared to my stock one.

Stay away from the XTD ones. I've pulled them out after short terms for some of my customers and found chunks of the clutch had just fallen apart. They also cause soo much clutch chatter.

Stick with an OEM Exedy for a stock replacement. I've found nothing but greatness with Clutchmasters, and would stand by them for any setup. Please do not confuse them with the ebay brand "Eclutchmasters"!!

how many clutch threads do we need......

and they all have the same answer... these 4 brands are great... these ones suck..... Search !

So what i've read about the xtd clutch's is people who complain or had poor results rarely resurfaced their flywheels. The people that say their great did resurface. I bought a stage 3 xtd clutch and I will be resurfacing my flywheel, I'll probably just use some emry?? cloth and some solvent as my dad suggested. I was going to shave it but I don't wanna kill the inertia for city driving.

Hey mike how did your clutch work for you? and did you resurface or no?

xtd clutch will for an n/a ze.


If you dont want to have any problems, go with name brand for sure. spec clutches are really good and so are act IMO.


I had a cheap ebay 6 puck clutch, they are made to feel like stage 3, worked well but it wore out really quick in about a year of constant track days.

Spec has been holding pretty well and boosted for almost a year. Do yourself a favor and only deal with it once.


Oh replace the main seals while you are at it. Even if they dont leak, replace tranmission shaft seals too. They are like 5 dllrs.

Have to say I'm enjoying the exedy oem pressure plate with act 6 puck combo. My Act disc is sprung though, wouldn't mind trying an unsprung next time. It can be a bit chattery, but holds well so far for all I can give it, and with the stock PP it's light enough for day to day driving. The spec stage 3 I had was decent too, just fancied a lighter clutch!

JWMX3 wrote:how many clutch threads do we need......

and they all have the same answer... these 4 brands are great... these ones suck..... Search !

Like he said use the search function, this has been beat to death and all your answers are already here my friend. Just don't go OEM or MX-6 OEM they're too weak for the ZE.

Umm, I did use the search function..that's how I got this. Basically adding my 2 cents and inquiring on how mikes clutch was holding up.

Was responding to cyberhi07. There is some very good info on clutchs in the search. That's where I'd go, that'
s why I mentioned it. No worries, Cheers

my clutch is great. ive never had any problems with it. engages smoothly and has never slipped. i am however running a k8 not a ze...

So what i've read about the xtd clutch's is people who complain or had poor results rarely resurfaced their flywheels. The people that say their great did resurface. I bought a stage 3 xtd clutch and I will be resurfacing my flywheel, I'll probably just use some emry?? cloth and some solvent as my dad suggested. I was going to shave it but I don't wanna kill the inertia for city driving.

fyi take your flywheel to a machine shop to be resurfaced. simply cleaning it with a terrycloth is not the same thing... i dont see how getting it resurfaced would kill your "inertia". when they resurface they shave a very small layer of the metal off to make it perfectly smooth so there isnt a bunch of imperfections tearing your new clutch apart.

make sure you baby the s--- out of your clutch for the first 1000km to break it in. no shifting above 3000rpm. especially since you went with a brand most people try to stay away from.

I said shaving would kill my inertia, not resurfacing..and by shaving I meant reducing the K8 flywheel by a couple pounds. Some people like how the engine will rev a little faster, I kinda want to maintain a balance.

The recommended break in period is 500 km or miles, however the guy thats gonna install my ZE says 1200 km's is a safer bet. Which puts it right in the ballpark with what you suggested, which also suggests you know your stuff when it comes to clutches.

Stay away from shifting above 3000rpm's....you do know what car I'm driving right? lol..I hate how the MX-3 tranny is geared so low...needs a 6th gear for highway driving. Actually I was shifting at 3000rpm's the other day...my car has never been so pampered...lol, I felt like a grandma. However I'd imagine the ZE will totally alter this perspective as it'll probably have little trouble winding that tranny to 3K.

hgallegos915 wrote:I had a cheap ebay 6 puck clutch, they are made to feel like stage 3, worked well but it wore out really quick in about a year of constant track days.

Oh replace the main seals while you are at it. Even if they dont leak, replace tranmission shaft seals too. They are like 5 dllrs.

So if it lasted a year of drag racing, it should probably last me 2-3 of normal city driving/street racing. I hope so anyway.

Oh ya...I've seen some of your youtube video's as well...your car is no slouch.