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I'm trying to get my car into gear because it is stuck in neutral and my car is unable to be driven.

I already tried to replace the clutch master * slave cylinders & bled the system down and I read all the topics about it where people experienced the same issue and you guys told them what to replace/bleed.
I get no error message from my car, and it's been two days since this happened.

What happened was I was just driving my car, just fine, and just like that, it went out of gear and stayed out of gear.
I am able to rev it and switch gears but i cannot put it into first and drive or any other gear [including reverse]

Some issues that circulate this problem is that my car also HAD [when it was able to drive, poorly at that] been going 5k-6krpms when i would take off and i would not be accelerating at a decent speed at all off red lights, and would sadly be going 5-10 miles per hour, at 4 rpms. When I went 5k-6krpms, i would be able to take off successfully, but poorly.

Any feedback would be great.
From the looks of the search forum, people seem to lean towards synchro issues.

Looks to me your diaphragm spring is shot. You need a new clutch.

+1...definitely the clutch. It's not disengaging when you depress the pedal. Do you feel normal resistance when you depress the clutch pedal?

wytbishop wrote: It's not disengaging when you depress the pedal.

Actually, I was thinking it was the opposite.
This happened to me a few years ago. The diaphragm spring broke, which made the clutch disengage, so the gears were engaging perfectly, but the car wouldn't move.
I guess it could be either way. Bottom line, that clutch needs a replacement.

There is no resistance when I press the clutch pedal down. I will replace the clutch and see if that works.
On a side note, I believe that the clutch had resistance after it broke down, but once we replaced the clutch master & slave cylinders there is no resistance. I could be wrong. But if I wasn't, does that mean anything? This is all just extraneous information I suppose since I'm going to go replace the clutch regardless & that most likely it will fix it.

Would air in the clutch line cause the pedal to have no resistance?

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:Would air in the clutch line cause the pedal to have no resistance?

He said that he bled the clutch and replaced some stuff, so I really doubt that's the problem.

But maybe you have a leak somewhere, check all the hydraulic parts. And maybe try pumping the clutch pedal and seeing if the fluid level in the reservoir drops. One of my brake hard lines had a hairline crack that sprayed a mist of brake fluid every time I braked, and the pedal was completely limp until the very bottom of its travel, even with the car off.

Bleeding the clutch is by far the most frustrating job I’ve ever had to do on my GS. After replacing my clutch slave and master it took me many hours to get the system bled to the point where it was drivable. It’s still not really perfect. I get mad just thinking about it.

I’d be interested to know what’s broken in the clutch. Something is for sure. If there was resistance before you changed the hydraulic components it’s hard to say for sure. Inodoro is most likely right in that case. Although, if the diaphragm spring is damaged, I would not expect to feel its resistance.

I'm just asking for my own reference, cause my clutch pedal has no resistance and I know my clutch is really worn out (yet still driveable) so I'm just wondering if that means there's air in the line or the spring is worn out?

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:I'm just asking for my own reference, cause my clutch pedal has no resistance and I know my clutch is really worn out (yet still driveable) so I'm just wondering if that means there's air in the line or the spring is worn out?

Probably air in the line, but bleeding the clutch truly is painful. My clutch was ok except for the fact that the engagement point kept changing. I bled it for about half an hour and now it works fine, but only after I pump it a few times. Not looking forward to doing it again to get it right.

Mad Cow wrote:

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:Would air in the clutch line cause the pedal to have no resistance?

But maybe you have a leak somewhere, check all the hydraulic parts. And maybe try pumping the clutch pedal and seeing if the fluid level in the reservoir drops. One of my brake hard lines had a hairline crack that sprayed a mist of brake fluid every time I braked, and the pedal was completely limp until the very bottom of its travel, even with the car off.

Negative.

wytbishop wrote:Bleeding the clutch is by far the most frustrating job I’ve ever had to do on my GS. After replacing my clutch slave and master it took me many hours to get the system bled to the point where it was drivable. It’s still not really perfect. I get mad just thinking about it.

I’d be interested to know what’s broken in the clutch. Something is for sure. If there was resistance before you changed the hydraulic components it’s hard to say for sure. Inodoro is most likely right in that case. Although, if the diaphragm spring is damaged, I would not expect to feel its resistance.

2 people took 10 minutes [ myself and my dad ]
And I will replace the clutch and let you know what is wrong with it. Most likely the guy is right and I punched a hole through it.

Wytbishop and mad Cow are right: bleeding the clutch is nothing but a big pain in the... er...well, the drivetrain...
My theory is what causes it to be so difficult is the bleeding screw being right besides the line fitting in the slave cylinder, which, the way I see it, makes it more difficult to remove air pockets from the other end of the SC.
I find it's somewhat easier to do it if I fill the slave cylinder with a syringe before I mount it, and then the line before mounting the master cylinder.
What I do is: I hold the cylinder with the line input up top, and fill it up with fluid using the syringe.
Then, I install it, connect the line, and slowly fill the line with fluid. Then I install the master cylinder and bleed it.
Also, another thing that has worked for me is to jack up the passenger wheel while I bleed it.
Either way, it's always painful...

Hope it helps.

Night-Shade: yeah, having air in the system will definitely decrease the pedal resistance a lot.

I didnt read the whole page but how is the clutch fork? if its off of place the clutch wont disengage properly or all all also. if eberything checks out. master slave and fork then it looks like you are stuck doing a clutch. good thing is its not hard to do on these cars