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I got the top pulley off fine but the bottom one (is that the pump pulley?) will not come off.. Do I "have" to use an impact on it (I don't have one right now), or is there a way I can use a 1/2-inch breaker bar to get it off? I have tried but it just moves the timing belt and s--- around ><.

Any advice to remove this? If I could get this off, I could get the timing belt off, and then take the head off.

Thanks a ton!!

easiest would be to take it off with impact. You can try blocking engine somehow so it won't turn and then taking it off with breaker bar.

looks like i might have to haul the engine over to the garage for a sec.. ><.. dang..

oh well, I can probably do it tomorrow.. borrow my dads truck...

There are a couple of bolts that I, and friends couldn't get off with an impact, so I did it with a breaker bar, and leg strength. For that particular bolt, I twisted a ½ breaker, and broke a socket, but got it off. In the right position, I can push about 500lbs. with each leg, though.

fowljesse wrote:There are a couple of bolts that I, and friends couldn't get off with an impact, so I did it with a breaker bar, and leg strength. For that particular bolt, I twisted a ½ breaker, and broke a socket, but got it off. In the right position, I can push about 500lbs. with each leg, though.

My problem is how do you stop the pulley from moving? It moves (and moves the timing belt with it) and so I can't really "break" it.

take it to a shop and have them heat the bolt and then zip it with the impact, it will come off. thats what i have to do sometimes on those cars that have stubborn crank bolts. works like a charm.

Put 2 of the clutch pressure plate bolts into the flywheel opposite each other, like one at 3o'clock and one at 6o'clock...without the pressure plate. Put one of the tranny bellhousing bolts into the engine block. Put a long, strong bar between the 2 pressure plate bolts and brace it on the tranny bolt so that the flywheel cannot turn. If it is on a stand the flywheel will be off. You can use 2 of the bolts that connect the flywheel to the crankshaft and brace the bar against the stand. Either way is fine.

Get a very long breaker bar. I use an old 1/2" drive torque wrench and a 6 foot pipe. It works best if the engine is on a stand and you also have the hoist supporting the weight. Use steady, even pressure. I weigh 225lbs and I'm no sissy...so that part is easy for me. It will break free with a loud bang and you will think something broke. But it was just the 15 year old factory thread locking compound.

This method has worked for me for many years and I have never damaged a flywheel or a bellhousing.

^ I agree! I did it the same way to tight it back on. I weight 140lbs and I did it with no problems

Be sure to pull with both hands toward your face....
and smile.

BANG!

Another way is to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar, and prop it against the ground so it won't turn. Then blip the ignition. Works everytime for me. Just make sure you mark the pulley position if your removing the crank pulley, etc. Now, if you end up bliping the ignition too long, and the engine cranks, and sends the breaker bar flying into someone/something, that's not my fault...just saying

His engine is nowhere near a car, or ignition system.

I'd go with the brace bar and breaker bar idea. Just make sure the bolts holding the brace are in far enough, you don't want to snap those...

Maybe your shop has the tool that fits into a tranny bolt hole and holds the flywheel?

The tool Ryan is referring to looks like this but you have to have the flywheel in place to use it.

I still have the clutch on so... how do I remove that to get to the flywheel?

Those cover bolts are only torqued to 16ft-lbs or something. They should come off without securing the crankshaft. When you are loosening one off, put your ratchet on the one at 3o'clock and orient the ratchet handle so that it is across the clutch cover. This way you will not be going with the rotation as much.

ohhh gotcha!

going there to try it shortly