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let me start by tellin you what happened. so i ran the rear brakes basically to nothing and pushed the piston all the way out. i took a c clamp and practically forced it back in and put new pads and rotors back on. it ran ok for a month or so and then it started grinding and clicking again. i havent been able to look at them thoroughly, but i know its messed up bad considering i can now floor the brake pedal and have almost no effect. i just want to know what i need to look at to fix this situation and my brake fluid resevoir is full. so adding fluid is out please any suggestions will be taken i have one day to look at it and thats tommorow. much appreciated.

possible ideas are your master cylinder went i have had that happen twice where the pedal goes to the floor and nothing happens, that will make it so you have no pressure but dont lose any fluid( in my jeep and my old pick up truck not my mx-3) or you could have messed up your calipers i know they make rebuild kits with new seals ect thats cheaper than getting a whole new caliper. or you could just replace the calipers and call it a day.

im almost positive its the calipers im a bit stressed though cuz theres no real way to tell about the cylinder

I have a question....

WHY would you let your brakes get that bad? Now you just created a big problem.

lets just say i was in a money jam and was about to get fired from work so to make up for it i worked constantly its a once in a life time thing for me i learn a lesson and never do it again. also now my rear driver side tire is bald as my dads head

Bleed Brakes
Check fluid

Don't let the fluid get low when you are bleeding the brakes. You need 2 people to bleed the brakes properly. Make sure your brake booster hose isn't cracked. Also, never let your brakes/tires go all the way bad or it can and will cost you more. Even cheap pads/tires in the meantime are better (pads for under $20 exist).

You should be able to get a tire for 50-60 mounted and balanced. If that's the only one thats bald, then you need to check your alignment or wheel bearing, otherwise might just save up for some new ones.

yeah i was thinking about bleeding the brakes. my only other question is is it possible if one caliper doesnt work will the pedal will hit the floor

chrome730 wrote:so i ran the rear brakes basically to nothing and pushed the piston all the way out. i took a c clamp and practically forced it back in and put new pads and rotors back on.

I'm wondering if you damaged the piston somehow since the rear are meant to be twisted in instead of just forced in!

moon, its a high possibility considering the pistons were out of the housing unit. either way im replacing the rear caliper if it fixes it then im good if not then i failed horribly. and then i will be looking for more info and by the way did you get ur badge? ive been gone for a while.

just get some speed bleeders, you can bleed your brakes by yourself every time. And you need to bleed them every year at least once ( I do) to get moisture/air out.

so heres the update it will take five days for the new caliper to get here. i remover the passenger side which i thought was the problem. nope. i took the drivers side off and it was horrible the inside pads was worn all the way down again i had just changed the pad about three weeks ago. im not clear on how brakes function. but is it possible if one caliper doesnt work the other will kick in to "over drive" to compensate.

Hmmmm, sounds to me like the brakes just need to be bled really good. The pot being extended all the way out still won't damage it. Even if you use a c clamp to set it back in, the pot will spin as it goes back, but it will force brake fluid to reverse flush towards the master cylinder, allowing for the possibility of air entering the system.
I had a similar problem with mine in the past(no i didn't let the pads get to nubs)After the brakes were replaced, the skid pad was showing my rear brakes weren't balanced. It ended up being what I stated above.

How do your flex lines look... They could be toast. If you can, raise vehicle, have someone spin tire, push brakes until the wheel stops, release brakes, if it takes more then a second or two, siezed sliders pins, wasting caliper or calapsing flex line. And due to you forcing the piston in when it is a screw in... I'm pretty sure it's impossible to "push" the piston in, your caliper is toasters.

Hope this helps a little.

Chris

Quick little extra, if the brake peddle feels like your pushing your hand into a memory foam matress, bleed the brakes. That's air. They call that the "SPONGE" feel.

Chris

thank you all for the input. fortunately i was able to get new brake pads for the left side which were demolished but in a weird way considering the inside pad was down to metal when the out side was fine. i have new calipers on the way. i just thought i should change them anyway considering the car is old and new hardware never hurts. I should also probrobly bleed the brakes but that will have to wait till its done raining. its been raining nonstop in delaware.