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I confirmed that the timing is correct and replaced the grounds and the battery and it cranks like mad now but doesn't start. I confirmed that the spark is good. I then confirmed that the fuel pump is not coming on when I turn the key on.

I jumpered the data port GRD and F/P and the pump runs. So I can't figure out why there's only power to the fuel pump when the data port is jumpered. Could I have hooked something up wrong that affects the pump? Could I have left something unplugged?

With the data port jumpered, I have fuel pressure to the FPR but not past it in the fuel rails. Obviously there is no vacuum because the engine has not run, so how do you open the FPR to prime the fuel system on startup?

Also I put the KL01 FPR from the K8 onto the ZE because the elbow ont he KL02 FPR ont he ZE was bent. Does anyone think that is an issue. I have today and tomorrow to get this thing running or else I'm without a car for another week.

I figured out the fuel pressure problem. The fuel lines were backwards. It sounds stupid but they do not look like they go where they go.

So I switched them and the engine ran.

That's great but the clutch still will not bleed. I have tried everything. I prefilled the clutch line from the flex line down. I prefilled the slave cylinder as full as it would go and then pushed out just enough fluid to get the pushrod in behind the clutch lever and I cannot get that last bit of fluid into the system to actually move the clutch lever. I think either the clutch master is not pushing fluid or the fluid is not getting into the clutch master. I cannot get the damn pin out of the clutch pedal clevis.

someone offer me some advice.

I was gonna say a safety feature on these cars... there is never any fuel pressure when the key is turned forward to the on position. It will only activate the fuel pump when it detetcts the motor is cranking over. Just some info for future.

As far as your clutch bleeding problem, I too had kinda the same issues before. What i did was open up the the bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder and then start pumping the pedal by hand and just keep doing this til fluid starts spitting out the bleeder. Then you close the bleeder valve, and continue to do the normal bleeding proceedure, like your brakes to get the rest of the air outta the line.

I took the clutch master cylinder apart and it was full of gunk. I think that was preventing brake fluid from flowing into the master fromt he brake res. It bled fine after that. I think I have addressed all of my problems now. The engine is running pretty well. There are lots of exhaust leaks I need to go and tighten everything up.

The big problem now is that I'm 3 hours from hom and it snowed 5 inches last night.

Good work Must have been some serious amount of tripe in there. Safe driving for the way home.

Goodluck! Snow has screwed me too, it was 40 degrees and they said no snow, I woke up and there was 2 inches! Bah!

lol yeah those damn fuel lines screwed me around too. except i wasnt sure where they went before i plugged them in so i checked the online manual and figured it out. if i hadnt of i probably would of had the same problem.

yea im really getting sick of this snow...
take it easy, mine just likes to spin, even with winter tires. and it was warm all day yesterday. full of ice.

glad to see that you figured everything out

Thanks for all the advice. I am leaving the car in Calgary until the snow recedes a bit. The car is ready to drive and everything runs well, but if something went wrong on the highway it would be a very bad day to need a tow truck. I got the brakes bled and everything seems to be good. I have a minor leak at the driver's side CV joint which I will change before I bring it home. I'll come back down next weekend and button up the last few things, test drive it and I should have it home by the end of the day Saturday.

I can't even test drive it there's so much snow. Mother nature has a cruel sense of humor.

Did you change the tranny seals before you put the cv joints in? Theyre really cheap and definitely worth it, esp. if youre going to have to take the CV out again!

i did!


how did your slim booster straight neck fitment work out??? lets see some pics.

This is not helpful advice... but it's currently 72 degrees here. And it gets down to 50 at night.

FYI.

^Needs to stick his mouth over tail pipe while its running!

onlytrueromeo wrote:Did you change the tranny seals before you put the cv joints in? Theyre really cheap and definitely worth it, esp. if youre going to have to take the CV out again!

I didn't. I inspected them when I removed the tranny and they were very good. I must have nicked it on the way in. No problem. That's an easy one to fix.

The clearance on the booster is good. The throttle linkage of course hit the reservoir badly so I took it of and modified the K8 linkage to fit and it works very well. I will post pictures soon. Honestly I was so rushed to get it done last weekend, and then I only had a couple of days this weekend to get the thing running I didn't have time for pictures. I kind of regretted it too because there were a couple of points where a picture or 2 would have helped.

I'll take some time this week and document what I did. I worked it out today and I did the entire swap in about 48 man hours over 5 days. The new engine runs very well. I just have to chase a few exhaust leaks and tie up a few loose ends and it's good to go. I could have done all that today I just didn't want to drive it home 3 hours in a snow storm.

how did you swap over your k8 linkage. i really want to get rid of my K8 throttle body and put in the ZE throttle body