solo_ryder's How To: Warm air/Short ram intake

[solo_ryder]

So yall, I have had alot of PM's and ppl MSN'ing me about making/how to get parts for my custom intake setup that I have had on my last 2 MX3's. So I decided to make this How To that explains the parts needed and also how to make this 3" intake. If you want a 2.25" or 2.5" intake then you will need to wait as I will get those part numbers later and update them. Mods please sticky this if appropriate.

Some of the advantages include:

- Much improved throttle response
- More power, better air flow to motor
- Awesome sound
- Better fuel mileage
- No worries of hydro-locking the motor (As opposed to the Integra CAI method)
- 2.25", 2.5" and 3" pipe widths available
- Looks cool :8

Let's start off by saying that I have had the Integra kit on my car and it was okay, but there are a few drawbacks to the CAI route.

- Possible hydro-lock
- Throttle response is not as crisp
- The pipes always get mangled being shoved into the fender
- Can only fit a small/medium sized filter
- 2.5" size as opposed to my 3" design
- Doesn't look as cool (at least to me)

There are advantages to the CAI as well obviously, like having a cooler air charge, but I didn't notice that much of a difference going to the WAI/Short ram.

Here is a part# list of the parts you will need (If you are creating a 3" intake):

Filter:
K&N filter (You can use whatever cone filter you want) - Part# RE-0930

Cost = 43.68 w/tax

Piping:
Vibrant 45deg. 3" pipe - Part# 2175
Vibrant 45deg. 2.5" pipe - Part# 2177
Vibrant 45deg. 2.25" pipe - Part# 2886

Cost = $29.52 w/tax

Couplers: - There are the part numbers for the 3" intake only. I will update when I have more part number. Also, I have recently heard that black will soon be the only color available.

Blue Couplers:

Vibrant Coupler 3" - Part# 2181B
Vibrant Reducer Coupler 3" to 2.5" - Part# 2180B

Red Couplers:

Vibrant Coupler 3" - Part# 2181R
Vibrant Reducer Coupler 3" to 2.5" - Part# 2180R

Yellow Couplers:

Vibrant Coupler 3" - Part# 2181Y
Vibrant Reducer Coupler 3" to 2.5" - Part# 2180Y

Cost= $19.52 w/tax

Clamps:

You can get these at any hardware store:

Three (3) - 3" Hose clamps (2.5" if using a 2.5" pipe etc.)
One (1) - 4" Hose clamp (For VAF)

Cost = 5$ max.

Total Cost = = $97.72 CAD

Now on to the instructions:

First off, you will notice that there is 2 different sized couplers.

- The 3" to 2.5" coupler is for the Throttlebody to the Pipe.
- The 3" coupler is for the pipe to the VAF

These are stretchy couplers, so the 3" coupler will fit over the VAF with some stretching.

1. Relocate the coolant reservoir:

The first thing you need to do is relocate your coolant reservoir, I am not currently running one; but that is up to you. Unbolt it from its place and move it to the left of the headlight, using a bracket attatch it to the car. (copied from hoodzy's CAI How To):



My old setup:



2. Cut the pipe to the appropriate length

I have had to wing it twice to get the measurements for you guys. It is best to use a grinder with a thin disk, a sawsall or a manual metal saw. Here are measurements to take off:

Throttlebody side - 1.5":



VAF/Filter side - 2" :



It is somewhat important to cut more off the VAF side or the intake setup may look abit funny and it will not get the proper reach for the filter to sit in the correct spot. These measurements are for a VERY tight fit. It is somewhat difficult to get in, hence why I over exaggerated the intake measurement abit.

*Important note* - Make sure you clean up any aluminum burrs on the intake pipe after cutting so that you don't tear the couplers or cause damage to the motor but intaking aluminum shards.

3. Get the couplers and VAF/Filter mocked up

Should look like this:




The filter is a tight fit onto the VAF, but with the stock hose clamp you can get it on with some force.

4. Test fit the intake on the car

Test fit the intake first to make sure that it all fits. I found it easiest to unbolt the throttle body to get the intake on. Put the coupler over the throttle body area and nudge it in. Should rest on the frame rail.





5. Install plastic or aluminum breather nipple


So there is one thing left to do, and that is install a breather nipple for the stock intake vacuum hose. There are two methods of doing this.

- Use the stock nipple. If you notice, the stock accordion has a plastic nipple where the stock vacuum hose connects. You can pull that out of the stock intake accordion and use that. What I did was cut the lip off one side and then drill a hole the size of the plastic piece (5/8") and inserted the plastic piece into the pipe with some JB-Weld or Epoxy:



- Get a shop (or if you can weld aluminum) to weld a aluminum nipple to the intake so that you can attach the stock hose:



6. ENJOY!



Click me!:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvkhCkGUj5U

[SmoothMX3]

Solo... I definatly want one!
I'll pm ya!

[jbud1291]

i kno that you use this on the KLZE but will it work just as well or at all on the K8 fitment wise and all

[solo_ryder]

i kno that you use this on the KLZE but will it work just as well or at all on the K8 fitment wise and all

Yes it sure will. The K8 mani is pretty much a curve neck IM as well, its just abit shorter, so you would need to cut abit less off one of the sides. This would definately work though on a k8 motor. I would recommend that you get a 2.5" pipe for a k8.

[RX8SE3P]

So do you think this actually makes the car any faster?

What I would love to see one day is the same car dyno'd with two different setups

1. Like yours
2. K&N filter in stock air box.

Looks good but I don't like the ideas of WAI. I gather that it may produce more power simply because pod filters can suck more air in I guess. But making a good shielding and some kind of duct for colder air to come in would give a greater increase in power wouldn't it?

[solo_ryder]

Yes possibly. I am going to make a black off plate for the intake so that it will block off engine bay heat. It still gets cool air from the spot in the fender so its about 50% as efficient as the CAI. But like I said, I ran a CAI and I didn't really notice a power difference at all between the two other then this setup has a much faster throttle response and a deeper sound.

[solo_ryder]

Added some new info..

Mods, please sticky if you think this is useful!

[Mad Cow]

I'm not sure if you know this, but there's a thread on probetalk going on right now about how angling the VAF like that makes you lose some power because it leans out the motor. Is there maybe a way to have the VAF sit level with this setup?

[solo_ryder]

Yea.. pretty much you would need to cut the pipe abit short ONLY on the filter side.. then you can angle it accordingly.. However, the stock VAF is angled anyways... So my setup is fine.

The probe guys are worried as they usually have their VAF pointed downwards towards the ground at a crazy angle, as they have their intakes near the front of the tranny or lower. My setup is still within a normal spec angle wise.

[Collier]

I would think that the VAF should be as close to the throttlebody as reasonably possible to get the quick response.

[Mad Cow]

Yea.. pretty much you would need to cut the pipe abit short ONLY on the filter side.. then you can angle it accordingly.. However, the stock VAF is angled anyways... So my setup is fine.

The probe guys are worried as they usually have their VAF pointed downwards towards the ground at a crazy angle, as they have their intakes near the front of the tranny or lower. My setup is still within a normal spec angle wise.

The probetalk guys said that their VAF is horizontal stock, and nthey were talking about how even a small angle could be bad. But whatever, it's not like I care anyway, I'm not trying to get every last hp out of my motor.

Funny thing, when I got this car the guy fabbed up a ridiculous intake that got insanely wide in the middle and had the VAF pointed straight down.

[solo_ryder]

I would think that the VAF should be as close to the throttlebody as reasonably possible to get the quick response.

Well, the pipe should be sealed right, so the response I don't think would be noticeable.. It would look funny if it was even close to the TB..

I'm surprised how much heat I am getting about this

You guys need to try this setup before you judge. I liked it alot better then my integra CAI.

[Mad Cow]

I'm not bashing it, I'm still gonna do this when I get the money, I'm just asking for our opinion on what the PT guys are saying.

[solo_ryder]

Yea I have seen a few ppl talking about this in the past on here. I believe that Gro Harlem or one of the MOCA guys talked about it and said thata slight angle will not make a difference at all, just large angles and positioning it to far from the TB can cause issues!

[Collier]

I would think that the VAF should be as close to the throttlebody as reasonably possible to get the quick response.

Well, the pipe should be sealed right, so the response I don't think would be noticeable.. It would look funny if it was even close to the TB..

I'm surprised how much heat I am getting about this

You guys need to try this setup before you judge. I liked it alot better then my integra CAI.

No heat here.