MX-3.com

I've actually read ALOT of articles that support this. What do you guys think?

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ive always followed break it in how your gonna use it.
If your gonna run it hard, break it in that way.
if its a daily run it hard, cause we all know we beat that s--- out of our daily drivers.
Or maybe thats only me?

I don't know what I think... but I know our dealership often takes the Rx8 and Miata and Speeds for a 200+ kmph run down the highway.... Just for fun, I think.

Maybe this is true, but I still see the logic in going easy on clutches for awhile.

This article only addresses piston rings, and not anything to do with camshafts and all those mating parts.... or transmission parts, or clutch parts....

I read that a while back, but I don't believe it. Seen too many motors have major issues being driven hard from almost day 1.

Everything he says in the article makes sense. It's hard to argue with the logic, but we've been told for so long that this is the wrong thing to do. It goes against what we've all been taught but I think he might be right.

^That is exactly what I thought. I also kinda agree with Nd4SpdSE though on the part about engines being driven hard break faster...but I think that is separate. This article is incomplete because its only about break in - the first 20 miles or so. I would follow everything he says but baby the car at the same time - you can drive a car hard without beating on it...the engine isn't the only thing to worry about here, the clutch is also important. While breaking a clutch in normally means no shifts past 3k, for engine break in I would use alot of the RPM range, stopping maybe 500-1k before redline, and shifting smoothly into the next gear, then hammering on the throttle again...you don't need to dump the clutch while you do this. I also think that after those first break in miles you definitely change the oil and keep good dino oil for the next 20 miles and continue to drive the car hardish...at about 50 miles change the oil again (dont know what would be best here) and NOW baby the car...its time to break in the clutch/flywheel for another 500+ miles. After these 500+ miles I would again change the oil and if you havn't switched to synthetic, I would now.


I don't think it makes sense to hammer on the car the FIRST second it starts, but the guy in the article does say to wait til the car is plenty warm...this is probably the most important thing for any engine...an engine will last significantly longer if it is warmed before being used...I need to install a remote starter for the cold winter mornings! I know diesel engines are built better, but one of the major reasons why cummins engines last so long is because they don't get as many cold startups and when they do they are allowed to warm up before hauling stuff! Many truckers leave the things running straight through the night and they still hit 500k MILES before a rebuild!

Unfortunately I don't have a lot of experience in this area, so I'm looking for all the help I can get with a friends car that we just finished rebuilding. I think I share the same idea as most the people in this thread already though. Just drive it. Don't bag the piss out of it, but don't be afraid to put the pedal to the floor. Be gentle with the clutch when shifting and don't burn it.

When I was breaking in my clutch, I didn't stay away from red line, but I didn't dump the clutch either. I have had absolutely no problems 6 months later. I figure as well as the car is driven how its been designed to perform, it should be OK as long as you don't bag it cold, and keep good oil in it.

Keeping a new engine's oil clean is really the most important thing of all I think.

As far as the break in...I think it makes some sense to make use of the period of time when the cylinder walls are the most abrasive to seat the rings as well as possible. By using the first few hours of running time to ensure that the rings and wall have the best possible contact it makes sense that the engine would have better compression and run better for longer.

Achieving this without doing damage to other parts is obviously the key.

I grew up in an auto repair shop, helping build engines since I was able to hold a wrench, and built my first engine (completely by myself) from the rod bearings out when I was 15, and my Dad is a professional engine rebuilder, doing about 100 a year. I'll ask him about this. I've never heard of this method, except somewhere in the back of my head says that it's okay for high performance motorcycle engines. I believe it's okay to run them hard, shortly after the break-in period. I would do ALOT of research before trying this.

More stuff I read awhile back that supports this:

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For the record. I am not necessarily endorsing this practice. I'm just saying that it makes a sort of sense.

this is what I was told by a guy that build race mopar engines and builds race cars himself. I trust him 100%.

I always wonder on shows you see them build a motor or take out out of a crate, put it on an engine dyno and run it through it's paces. The theory makes sence. It could also be what you would do for a high-performance motor race motor, but probably not something you want to do for a motor to have a long life.

I can understand that you'd let it warm up a bit, then start varying the revs, under no load in neutral obviously. Do this for a little bit. Then drive a bit taking it easy. Changing oil fairly often. I think you shouldn't keep it at certain revs for too long. Always vary the revs, it actually says that in our manuals I think.

I would not thrash it first shot and put it under tremendous load! Screw that. My daily driving usually includes only revving to about 3,000 and generally taking it easy. I only push hard when someone in a crap car is trying to drag me.

Remember, you can rev it up, but without putting 100% load on it. Make sense?

Dunno I'm not an expert but I'd be against loading it up for at least a couple thousand kms.

That makes perfect sense on why there is sooo much (small) metal shavings still in my engine!!
I used synthetic oil frist, but didn't do any oil changes till I was like 1500 kms

now after that taking place I might need to get my heads redone again.. considering I lost a huge amount of power/torque

I wounder if I would have to stip down the engine and clean out the shavings throughout??