KLZE TIME...

[ramsen25]

hey everyone the time has come saturday morning i will be picking up my klze i need some quick help i wanna make sure its a ze before i grab it wuts the fastest way to make sure its real and not fake thanks

[mazdags94]

check the head stamps. Prolly one of the quickest. You can read through the FAQ's to find the thread on "how to identify a ZE." Good luck. Also, the IM should have square runners.

[Daninski]

If you need to ask this then your not ready for the swap. Do your homework before you get ripped off. There's lots you need to know if you want to be informed going in. There's parts that you should replace. It's your money, do want you want.

[ramsen25]

thats y this is a forum to ask questions , im buyin the motor and someone is dropping it for me, so i dont need to be ready to swap that doesnt make any sense

[mazdags94]

what he's saying is that the engine can't just be dropped in and be ready to drive. There are several parts that are needed in order to accommodate the ZE engine (i.e. IM, VAF, ECU, etc.). Anyone that is prepped to do the ZE swap should know about everything needed. So to be 'ready' per se, is to know how to identify the engine, for one, and also, to know what parts will be needed to fully complete the swap (and obtain them). To repeat a comprehensive list would be tedious, but why re-invent the wheel when you can read the FAQ's. Turst me, it would be within your best interest.

Ahh heck..... here are a few:
Identify a ZE
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=56280" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Shopping List (found in just about 2mins of searching--- courtesy of PatDiesel)

Must haves:
1. KL-ZE
2. Belts-
---a. Alternator- with or without AC
---b. Power Steering
---c. Timing
3. Check all pullies on the ZE (pwr. steering, AC, water pump, crank, Alternator, and all Timing tensoiners and gears) if any are more than barely rusted, dented, scratched, or dinged they need to be replaced.
4. Battery relocation kit (if you are using my ZE intake mod) so that CAI will fit.
5. 18g wire (some of the Kl-08 wires will not reach the ZE connectors)
6. Radiator resevoir relocation kit. ( The resevoir must be moved for CAI)
7. Front and rear main seal for a KL motor.
8. Water Pump and seal (did you need the Pulley?)
9. Oil pump ( I will not go into it's replacement, but if it is leaking it will continue to do so, mine wasn't and the engine was in great shape so I decided to let well wnough alone)
10. Oil filter
11. Plastic bags (to bag and label all parts that you pull off of the 1.8 and use or store, with the ZE)
12. Breather filter, or tie back into the CAI with appropriate hose size.
13. PCV valve
14. Masking tape (to mark all connectors and hoses so that you remember where they go after the 1.8 is out and the ZE in)
15. Permanent marker (to write on bags and tape so that it won't wash off, and you know why you marked it)
16. MX-3 Mazda shop manual, Chilton's or Hayne's (I prefer the Chilton's, you can bring the book out to the car and it seems to be slightly better than the Hayne's)
17. Throwout bearing (should be replaced when you have the flywheel resurfaced, or will come in a new flywheel)
18. Release bearing
19. Clutch alignment tool
20. Clutch (a must for all the new power)
21. Check all motor and tranny mounts and make sure that they are all good, if not then replace them. It is a good idea to replace them all anyway with the motor out, but you can do it with the motor in. The way you know if they are bad is if they have any craks in the rubber.
22. Vaseline (to use on hoses so that they go on easier)
23. Check all hoses, if they don't look new then replace them.
24. Gasket maker, Copper and black or gray. Copper is for exhaust, black and grey are general purpose.
25. Lots of brake parst cleaner or carb and choke cleaner, for the dirty things in life.
26. Lots of rags, for spills, cleaning or stuffing.
27. Fluids-
---a. Radiator
---b. Brake (DOT 3)
---c. Tranny dope (75W-90) the Chiltons manual sais to use Auto Tranny --------fluid, but I like rear gear dope instead. (for manauls)
---d. motor oil (10W-30 or 5W-30) depends on where you live 5W-30 is ------for colder conditions.
---e. Power Steering
28. Radiator flush and conditioner. look at what is looks like after you flush the radiator wit the 2.5L in, if it is rusty colored or has much sediment then you might need to replace your radiator.
29. New axles, check and see if any part of the boot looks worn or broken if so then they are a must replace, even if they look fine you should replace them.
30. Plugs for a KL (Gap ?, I'll check and post I can't remember right now)
31. Fuel filter
32. Axle nuts (usually come with new axles, but make sure)
33. Axle grease
34. Fuel line crush washer
35. Power steering crush washer
36. Resurfaced or new flywheel
37. Thermostat
38. COMMON SENSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok, the should replace items:

1. New axles
2. Alternator
3. Power steering pump
4. AC conversion & recharge (if you have it or are planning on using it)
5. Braided steel clutch line
6. Braided steel brake lines (you are right there)
7. AC compressor (we will not get into it's replacement as I ditched it in favor of less weight and more power)
8. Plug wires for a KL(the KL-08 won't fit, but if they came on the motor then they might be ok for a short time, ie.500 mi., make sure they don't have any craks, splits, cuts or tears if they do then you must replace them.)
9. New rotor and cap for 1.8L distributor. Again look for any damage, if any then replace, but they should be replaced any way.
10. Headers, the KL stock headers must be modified to fit the stock exhaust so you might as well, the power is much better anyway. It is also-really hard to get to the rear header after the motor is in if you decide that you want headers later.
11. Mandrell bent "U" shaped bend for the cold air intake. Aluminized steel or stainless steel 2.5" inside diameter with at least 1.5' legs. I got mine from JC Whitney, they seem to have a good premade selection. Also my car seems to have a breathing problem in the high end so I'm going to make a 3" diameter intake and see which one is better. I'll post the parts for the 3" if necessary.
12. Brake boost vacuum hose (again inspect the old for damage and replace if necessary)
13. Intake filter, 2.5" hole. Auto Zone has a catalog that you can pick a K&N from.
14. Engine CPU, I hear that the ZE runs like crap with out it, but you can use the 1.8L CPU.
15. Intake rubber fittings, you can buy expensive ones from NOPI or you can get black ones from Home Depot, (3) 2.5" inside diameter and (2) 2.5" one side to 3" other side inside diameter.
16. Assorted hose clamps for all the hoses, instead of the spring clamps that Mazda uses. 1/2"-3", more smaller sizes than larger, you might also need a 3 1/2" for the Throttle body connection to CAI.
17. Vacuum hoses about 2.5', there are 2 sizes if I remember correctly, take one of each (remembering where you took them from, you'll need to replace them) to an auto parts store, they'll get you the right size.
18. Fuel line, again you can take the old and they will size it for you. about 4' (I also moved the fuel filter to just under the CAI so that I can replace it easier. I'll go over that in the swap page.)
19. This would be a prime time to replace the battery cables too. Both ground and power.

that is all for now, hehe, I'll add anything that I missed as I write the ZE swap page.

[colinsmx3]

wow.... ummm or you can just take it somewhere and drop $2000 and have it all done in 2 days with a warranty....

[mazdags94]

But you lose all the fun by doing it that way?

I prefer to do it myself only because you learn how everything works in your car and what you put into it. If something goes wrong, you can think back to what you did whereas if someone else did it, you'd have to take it back each time (where the warranty would come in I would imagine).

I like the personal satisfaction of building my own MX-3.

just my two cents.

[colinsmx3]

Sure I fully built all of mine... but as for engines.... thats why I became a body man and not a mechanic I HATE engines! If something goes wrong in any engine it goes to someone else to get fixed!

[onlytrueromeo]

Im the opposite! I'd rather work on the mechanics than spend my time doing body work - mostly because I'm not an artist. Your car looks nice - you should fix the dents in my car and I'll fix mechanical problems with yours!

[mazdags94]

Same here.... I have no skill on body work..... Although, I could always attempt that wooden body kit I've been dreaming about.... A nice coat of High Gloss and its mint!

[Daninski]

im buyin the motor and someone is dropping it for me, so i dont need to be ready to swap that doesnt make any sense

Oh ya! Well you don't make any sense either so there. nah nah nah nah nah So listen Mr. "someone is dropping it for me", do you even know what intake manifod you'll need? I said to do a little research and thats exactly what I meant.

[fowljesse]

ALL the info you need is in here
To me, 80% of the function of this forum is to hold the info, for people to find. If there is something that wasn't covered (especially numerous times) then it's time to ask. When I first joined, I spent a few hours searching before even introducing myself.
The good thing about finding old topics is that you can ask questions there, and keep all the info in the thread, for future searchers.

[ramsen25]

well da it need the curved neck in order for it to drop in the mx3 lol all i wanted to know is wuts the stamp numbers for the klze so i know its a real one

[fowljesse]

You'd get that info alot faster, searching for it, than asking, and waiting.

[fieromx3]

jeez guys u are all a--holes... just help the guy out... no need for this if u have to ask ur not ready bulls--- if he wanted to do it... let him otherwise f--- off!
thats the problem in this world todday everyone is so ignorant its not hard AT ALL to be nice and give a lil help when someone asks

straight neck will fit but needs modifications... just settle for a curve neck u dont seem to be wanting every lil bit of power u can get...

heads are kl31-1a1 and kl31-101 on the other head stamped just by the intake runners.

flat top pistons, no egr a true klze will have no egr.