[STICKY] How to rebuild a hydraulic tensioner for under $10
Posted: July 9th, 2008, 2:53 pm
When you have to replace the timing belt. Its a must that you also get the 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley aswell
I went to several stores and around the internet, it seems that AutoZone has a fair price
$200 for a Durlast kit with no timing belt but a life time warranty
$188 for a Gatorback kit that comes with a belt but I dont think it comes with any warranty.
I went ahead and spent about $250 on the Durlast kit along with a Durlast belt because I could bring back the idler pulleys or tensioner pulleys next time I replace the belt.
But anyway, besides the pulleys and belt itself, the tensioner itself seems very expensive.
http://www.autozone.com/N,15101204/shop ... ultSet.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I searched around, I guess they can go anywhere from $80 to $300.
I was only able to find tensioners from AutoZone and Checkers for about $250.
Ether way, $80 or $300 is a lot of money.
Its a must that you replace all these parts though.
Is there a cheap fix?
You bet your a-- there is. Stock Hondas use this and even some bikes. Some Probe users have done this with no problems.
Building a Manual Tensioner and save $$$
From Probetalk.com user: escortlover19
Except that you want a bolt and washer on both sides.
Do this if your working on your engine yourself.
I went to several stores and around the internet, it seems that AutoZone has a fair price
$200 for a Durlast kit with no timing belt but a life time warranty
$188 for a Gatorback kit that comes with a belt but I dont think it comes with any warranty.
I went ahead and spent about $250 on the Durlast kit along with a Durlast belt because I could bring back the idler pulleys or tensioner pulleys next time I replace the belt.
But anyway, besides the pulleys and belt itself, the tensioner itself seems very expensive.
http://www.autozone.com/N,15101204/shop ... ultSet.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I searched around, I guess they can go anywhere from $80 to $300.
I was only able to find tensioners from AutoZone and Checkers for about $250.
Ether way, $80 or $300 is a lot of money.
Its a must that you replace all these parts though.
Is there a cheap fix?
You bet your a-- there is. Stock Hondas use this and even some bikes. Some Probe users have done this with no problems.
Building a Manual Tensioner and save $$$
From Probetalk.com user: escortlover19
Pretty much, you want it to be like this...id love to help ya, but its going to be very difficult to explain over the internet.Basically here is the basics
Before you tear anything apart, REMEMBER to measure the overall length of the tensioner when its fully extended.This will help alot later on.
1.remove tensioner from car
2.find a drill bit that is about the same size as the eclip that holds the stock pushrod into the tensioner.The drill bit should be basically big enough so it makes a hollow hole that replaces the pin and e-clip.Without a tensioner in my hand, i cant give you an exact size for the bit.
3.if you tensioner has a small allen screw, take that out and drain the hydrolic oil.If not dont worry about it, some have it, some dont.
4.Do whatever it takes to remove the inside guts from the tensioner, all you want left is the outter body.
5.take the bit that i told you about earlier and start to drill through the body starting at the end where the pin was.The bit should just fit barely into the body.
6.Drill all the way through the body as straight as possible.
7.Now bring the tensioner to hardware store and find a bolt that fits as tight as possible inside the hole you just drilled.
8.Buy one fully threaded bolt that is as close to the length that you measured before.It should be at least as long as the stock tensioner length was, longer is better if they dont have exact size.You can cut the excess off later if its too long.
9.Buy 2 nuts and 2 washers that fit on the bolt you buy.These will act as the jamb nuts to keep the tensioner where you need it.
10.Take the bolt and thread one nut all the way to the bottom where the head is, then throw a washer on.
11.Now put the bolt through the tensioner and install the other washer and nut.
12.Now adjust the nuts so the end of the bolt is flush with the top nut so its essentially loosened all the way.
13.Now install the tensioner and see how it fits.
14.Now your gunna want to adjust the tensioner bolt till it tensions the belt where you need it.
15.Once you get the bolt where you want it, tighten bolt nuts tight to the tensioner body so it jambs it tight so it wont move.One nut should be loosened, one will tighten to move closer to the tensioner body.
i know this is kind of hard to understand, but you should be able to figure it out once you have the pieces in your hand.If not, i could make you one if you paid me for the work and parts.Id need a s--- tensioner, i can buy the other hardware.It only takes about 30 minutes to make the tensioner, so it would be back to ya in no time.Lemme know if you have problems, and ill try and make one, get measurements,and take pics along the way.Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Except that you want a bolt and washer on both sides.
Yeah basically your replacing the rod with a bolt that is adjustable.There should be a little clip that holds the rod in the housing.The only thing wrong with the pic you showed me, is that you need a nut and washer on both sides of the housing so you can lock it in place.Let me know how it goes.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO THIS WHILE HAVING A MECHANIC WORK ON YOUR CAR! A mechanic will charge alot of money to do a timing belt job on a FWD car like ours because of how the engine is postioned (East to West). They have to pull out the engine. If they dont install your manual tensioner correctly, they hold no responsibility.Yup, you got the right idea.The only thing i worded wrong, was the length of the bolt you want to buy.Id buy one about an inch longer than your measurement.The reason is, you have to add the extra length since youll be putting a nut and washer on before the tensionser housing.Basically it will push the bolt farther out.Just add an inch to the measurement, and cut the bolt with a hacksaw if need be.Either way, you can screw this up 10 times and still be cheaper than a new OEM one
Do this if your working on your engine yourself.
