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Hi. No one else seems to have to same problems so I am begging for help! Bought a 95 V6 1.8 a month ago. Was idling odd but was told as soon as the Air Mass thingy was replaced it would be fine. It wasn't. Car drove fine except when floored it would feel like a little bump in the idling and when moving after stopping the rpms would have to be high to get it to move. Replaced the plugs and it would only move if the rpms were over 2500.
Replaced- Oxy sensors, plugs, air mass thing, fuel filter, TPS, battery terminals, water pump, timing belt.
Tested- oxy sensors, Fuel pressure, Air mass thing, Coolant sensor, dist signal, battery terminals, injector pulse.

Have added a good injector cleaner to 1/3 tank and hoping that will clear it up but its still the same so far. Don't know what else to do and this car is draining my money and patience. Please help!

Before spending ANY more money, have yourself or somebody you trust test the engine vacuum, as well as compression. They're both very simple to do, just need the (inexpensive) equipment.

A very common issue is for the rubber air intake hose that runs from the throttlebody to the mass airflow sensor to have cracks in it. Sometimes, you can't even tell the cracks are there. These cracks allow air to enter the throttlebody without being sensed by the MAF sensor. This causes all the symptons that you described.

It happened to me when I first got my car, and many others too.

also, did you calibrate your TPS when you replaced it? or did you just 'ballpark' it?

It has to be exactly right.

other than that, ya, your intake hose is probably cracked. Most are

7

I've got my money on the distributor. You can replace it, but they're expensive unless you can find one here or on EBAY. The other option is the HEI mod, which is cheap.

He checked the disty said it was fine. I will try the hose thing first thanks!

freakin hose made no difference. Whats this HEI mod?

The HEI mod is basically a way of replacing your distributor without paying the outrageous price for one. But you say your dizzy was checked okay.

you said you tested the disty signal... did you try taking the cap off and checking the contacts and rotor inside? If you have (or have access to) a digital multimeter check the resistance between the posts and the contacts inside. If they're corroded a quick fix is to scrape 'em clean with a utility knife. I've done that 3 or 4 times. Finally replaced it tho, it was starting to leak voltage to the wrong contacts. Caps and rotors are about $50 a piece from mazda.

The thing with the distributor is that the ignitor could be good, but the coil could be going. Even if the coil shows continuity, it could be leaking voltage. Then there's the cap as stated above...

Your problem sounds ignition related to me and there's a lot of ways that can happen. For $50 you can do the HEI mod and you'll know right away.

you forgot to replace your cap and rotor, and check for leaks in the intake hose.

After than, then we'll have a relatively clean slate.

If you still have problems, check your compression for something seriouse and ignition system...

" a digital multimeter check the resistance between the posts and the contacts inside. If they're corroded a quick "


Anyone know what the resistance is meant to be between the posts and contacts. Have friend who can check it.

I did not see spark plug wires on your list of replaced parts.
Wires would be in my top 5 reasons.

Andy P. 95 MX-6 LS

Okay so now its really hard to start and floods when trying to start it. Also when its feeling like it wants to stall out when driving it makes a bunch of popping sounds. Not sure if this is an indication of what's wrong, please help!

sounds like a bad fuel pressure regulator.

Its hard to help you if your not going to answer our questions for you.

Did you replace/ inspect the disty cap and rotor?
Did you replace/ inspect the spark plug wires?
Did you check/ verify the TPS output voltage after you installed a new one?

This could be a jumped tooth on the timing belt. Not hard to believe if the hydraulic
tensioner is failing. Could be the main crank pulley is separating causing timing issues.
could still be a vacuum leak somewhere.
At least pull the spark plug wires and look for signs of spark jump. Check the phenolic
part just above the spark plug, your looking for a pinhole sized burn mark.
Check the distributor cap for carbon traces or cracks.
there is a procedure online for checking the TPS voltage. One method uses a voltage meter and
another just uses the starting and stopping of the cooling fans.

Andy P.