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I'm unable to break loose the axle shaft nut on the driver's side. It occurred to me this may have counter-clockwise threads. Anybody know? Passenger side took an air impact wrench, but came off pretty easy.

Those things are major pains in the butt. I replaced 4 of them before and 2 I had to chisel off and the other ones I had to torch and use a cheater. try heating it. If I remember correctly they aren't reversed threaded.

When those Hub bolts are put on, you hammer down part of it, so it won't unscrew off. Did you bend that part back? Sometimes, even using an air gun, won't take it off. What I use, and works great is a 3/4 socket wrench. It's huge, and won't brake when you jump on it, using your own weight to get it turned.

Pretty sure there aren't reversed threaded. I replaced passenger side one two days ago. Air gun FTW.

Steve-O

lowflyinmx3 wrote:Those things are major pains in the butt. I replaced 4 of them before and 2 I had to chisel off and the other ones I had to torch and use a cheater. try heating it. If I remember correctly they aren't reversed threaded.

You guys have helped! I already tried heat and a cheater bar, so that leaves the chisel, which I hadn't thought of. Thanks.

2fazed wrote:When those Hub bolts are put on, you hammer down part of it, so it won't unscrew off. Did you bend that part back? Sometimes, even using an air gun, won't take it off. What I use, and works great is a 3/4 socket wrench. It's huge, and won't brake when you jump on it, using your own weight to get it turned.

Yes, I straightened out the bent-over place. Tried the breaker bar with a cheater bar and jumped on it. No luck. Guess I'll destoy the nut without damaging the threads on the shaft, somehow.

You can also use a dremmel tool and a cutoff disc. Even better control if you have the flex shaft attachment. Allows you to be precise with your cut. Glad I didnt have this problem Mine came right off with my impact gun. Best of luck.

Tunes67

Tunes67 wrote:You can also use a dremmel tool and a cutoff disc. Even better control if you have the flex shaft attachment. Allows you to be precise with your cut. Glad I didnt have this problem Mine came right off with my impact gun. Best of luck.

Tunes67

Great Idea! I was going the brute strength route, but now I'll try a little finesse.

I've had a heck of a time getting them off. Neither side is reverse-threaded, so you're not doing it wrong.

I got a 3/4 breaker bar and then got a 6ft long pipe, that I slid over the breaker bar, and I basically just hung off the end of the pipe and it finally cracked loose. That was rough. Those things are torqued like mental, plus with age they probably semi-fuse with the axle.

The dremel is a great idea! Wish I had thought of it. I love this forum![quote][/quote]

Glad to hear I'm not alone with this problem. Before I cut the nut off, I think I'll try a longer cheater bar. If that doesn't do it, the Dremel come out!

i wedge a large flat blade screw driver between the rotors cooling chanells and the brake caliper

Big 3/4 braker and 4foot bar with a extra 100kg Buddy of mine (my 80kgs isnt enough)
Jump around..grunt..swear..then BANG it comes loose

same applys when you put the new nut back on....

if your replacing the CV joint its not so important if you bung up the threads cause youll get a whole new axle with new threads and that hub nut as well.

Steve-O

Usually it's better if you don't destroy the axle thread and nut. You might need to install it back on if the replacement axle is the wrong one.

WOW no, no no, you guys haha,

Do not torch it unless you are redoing the bearing to.

Simply take a 3/4 socket set (usually most people don't have them laying around unless you live out on a farm, so take and rent a set from your local auto parts store.) and its as easy as that, they come loose pretty easy with a 3/4, trust me!