VAF Relocation(NOT ANY MORE) but idle issues

Red Rocket · Post by **Red Rocket** » April 27th, 2007, 6:50 pm

Just thought I'd ask if anyone has maved theirs. I'm toying with the idea and was just wondering if anyone else has done this. It was suggested that the resistance may change with the extending of original wiring, I'm not sure about this cuz wires is what I do, literally. But I appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » April 27th, 2007, 7:01 pm

If wires is what you do then you should know that as length increases so does the wires resistance value. It may not be much.. but.. if the ECU is calibrated to a wire with a certain value.. if you then change the value.. the data the ECU receives would then be flawed.

I dont know if these harnesses have sensors with resistance wires or not.. But I have seen such harnesses before and they are indeed a PITA if you have to work with them. Older single wire O2 sensors used resistance wire as an example. And I am relocating my MAF as well and have no issue keeping the stock wiring harness and using it without modification. Best of luck.

Tunes67

Red Rocket · Post by **Red Rocket** » April 30th, 2007, 4:33 pm

ok well all went great for fitting the cai. Made my cuts, removed neccesary components from the engine bay, tightened everything up and bam i'm idling at 1500rpm. So I gave it a bit to settle down, nope, bottomed out the idle adjust screw on the throttle body and it brought me down to about 1000rpm, but thats still too high and doesnt seem right. Anyone else have these issues.

By the way it looks and sounds great.

Red Rocket · Post by **Red Rocket** » April 30th, 2007, 9:43 pm

ANYONE

Post by **Mooneggs** » April 30th, 2007, 10:03 pm

ever since my klze swap my idle has been around 1500... sometimes it will stay around 800-1000 but majority of the time 1500... I'm sure something needs to be adjusted... I've messed with everything...just can't get it to go down... I've learned to live with it...

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » April 30th, 2007, 10:35 pm

why dont you reset the tps? make sure the iac is connected. Adjust the idle screw. Make sure no leaks at all. If you feel comfortable, adjust the throttle bory screws on the fly itself. My kfze was idling at 1.5 forever until i decided to adjust those screws and closeds the tb plate a bit more and walla. Idle at arpound 700 rpm.

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » April 30th, 2007, 11:15 pm

I may be wrong, but I thought that adjusting the screw by itself wasn't the right way. I thought you had to put the ECU in diagnostic mode by jumping some stuff, THEN adjusting the screw a little lower than where you want (ex if you want 800 rpm, you set it at 700 rpm), then take the car out of diagnostic mode...

But I dunno.

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » April 30th, 2007, 11:49 pm

well yeah thats ho0w i adjusted by ten and ground then adjust and then pull the pin once its adjusted.(while car runing)

Red Rocket · Post by **Red Rocket** » May 1st, 2007, 4:24 pm

so i should back my idle adjust screw back out 5 turns, then put the computer in diagnostics mode then i adjust what, and where.lol. Just not sure where to adjust the plate, or what you mean by "reseting the tps"

ruthless_mx3 · Post by **ruthless_mx3** » May 4th, 2007, 6:43 pm

check the link and read about 5 posts down. Jschrauwen has an awsome explanation on how to both adjust the tps and check the iac

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=47561

its in the v6 faq for future reference