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We are still trying to solve a no start problem. There is no spark at the coil. The fuses all look good and the computer and MAF sensor were replaced about 6 mos ago due to a similar no start problem. Are there relays that I should be checking? If so, where are they located?

Its a shot in the dark, but we will try replacing the external ignitor by the coil. It has never been touched in 140K miles and 15 years. If this doesnt solve it, I guess we need to tow it to a shop where they can put it on a scanner. Or does someone here have any better suggestions in solving this problem? We have a full shop of tools including voltmeter, just no "modern" scanning equipment. The nearest dealer is 100 miles away and they have been quite uncooperative in helping thus far. We are hoping to get a repair manual sometime soon.

To test the F/P all you need to do is jump the test terminals in the diagnostic connector. When the key is turned to the run position you should hear the F/P and the car will start (but do not drive the car) if it is a fuel issue. A friends garage had they problem when they changed the battery in a customers car. I stopped by on my way home and tracked it down to the wiring between the VAF and ECU. They later told me they found the harness runs near the battery and the wire broke within the insulation in that area once they spliced in a new wire the car ran fine.

I had a similar problem a few years ago with a SOHC and thought it was the ignitor turn out to be the Cam angle sensor in the distributor had failed. I found that this is now becoming a common problem with all the older Mazda's with external coil.

On a pre 96 model you don't need a scanner to read the codes. All that is necessary so to jump the test connectors in the diagnostic connector then turn the key and the flashes of the CEL. It's like morse code it flashes a series of long and shorts to tell you the codes stored. The problem is none of these problem will trigger a code in memory.

Thanks for the tips Yoda. I did jump the TEN and GND terminals in the diagnostic box and got a code 02 (see post below on cant start Mazda). According to MAZDA, this code indicates a no #2 signal dist. A mechanic told me that this could be just about anything ignition related. I guess I will start with the ignitor (crossing fingers), the parts stores dont have the crank sensor in the distributor, but of course they have the distributor if I want to shell out the $. I think a good shop can determine exactly which component is failinig with a scanner? If not, then I might as well try to figure it out.

I figure its one of the following: ECU, distributor, coil, or ignitor. How can I determine which one without replacing parts?

So what do I jump in the diagnostics box to check fuel pump?

Mx3_Granny wrote:Thanks for the tips Yoda. I did jump the TEN and GND terminals in the diagnostic box and got a code 02 (see post below on cant start Mazda). According to MAZDA, this code indicates a no #2 signal dist. A mechanic told me that this could be just about anything ignition related. I guess I will start with the ignitor (crossing fingers), the parts stores dont have the crank sensor in the distributor, but of course they have the distributor if I want to shell out the $. I think a good shop can determine exactly which component is failinig with a scanner? If not, then I might as well try to figure it out.

I figure its one of the following: ECU, distributor, coil, or ignitor. How can I determine which one without replacing parts?

So what do I jump in the diagnostics box to check fuel pump?

The mechanic is full of crap. Code 02 & 03 has everything to do with the crank angle sensor. If not both set of Mazda's factory tech references for the '92-'93 MX-3 and '90 to'94 323/protege I have are incorrect. These should help you out. Unless you have corroded wire at the connector or a broken wire between the distributor connector and ECU the code 02 pretty much means you will need to replace the distributor





The auto parts store is correct the crank angle sensor is not available separately and must be purchased as a complete distributor.

To test the F/P you will need to jump the GND and FP terminals in the diagnostic connector

Okay, that helps. We will soon find out. I found a shop with a new snap on scanner, they said for $65 they will find out exactly what part is bad. Since the computer was rebuilt just 6 mos ago I wanted to be sure it wasnt the computer as it is still under warranty.

I saw new distributor for sale on EBay for around $200, seems like a good deal since the parts place wants closer to $300.