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Guys im really confused here. I decided to go ahead with the swap and this is the engine I have decided on http://www.jdmsource.ca/v2/product.asp?ID=35

so will I have to go ahead and buy like the protege transaxles and whatnot and like the flywheel and stuff? Comparing just from where the steering pump hoses and stuff go I am thinking this might be a direct swap in? So basically can someone clear this up for me, is this the motor that needs a whole bunch of other parts to work or will it swap in directly.

I think I should clarify a bit too. As stated it comes with the ecu, so I am hoping to run that, or do i need some haltek thing? Also I will be using the tranny it comes with

Also one more question, is this the motor that comes out of like the 4 door 323?

BPT are a waste of money and over rated. i boosted the regular BP u find in ur avg. mazda protege LX/GT and kicking A$$ with it.

thanks for all the help^

It looks like it comes with the trans and all from the listing. Things I'd ask them are what car and year did it come out of and was it FWD or AWD. The 323 trannies sit the axles back further than the Pro-LX or MX-3's do so you may would have to make custom mounts to get the 323 trans to work in the MX-3...or use the 323 trans brackets with the MX-3 mounts. You'll also need the axles. Most of us swap in the Pro-LX drive line using the MX-3 motor mounts with the Pro-LX trans brackets. This also requires modifying the oil pan for the jack shaft to clear...atleast it does when using the B6T oil pan...not sure about the BPT's. With my experiance with the B6T's and Pro-LX drive line the B6T's flywheel and clutch is nearly identical to the Pro-LX's.

Anyone here actually installed the 323 driveline in the MX-3?

As for engine management it appears your covered according to the add. Unless your looking to up the boost, etc... which can be tackeled numerous ways. What are your HP goals and what are you building the car for?

P.S.

Lime is correct...the BPT's are over rated unless you want to run rediculously high boost pressures needing the lower compression. We've ran 18psi with a small Mitsu 16G, pump gas, side mount IC on a NA BP and it took it like a champ! At 7psi it put down almost 200WHP with nearly 210 lb/ft. of torque. The GTR engine is even further overated as it basically only has Hollow cams and really beefy rods compaired to the BP or BPT. Dollar for Dollar the cheapest 1.8 to build is probably the NA BP. However the deal your looking at sounds almost to good to be true as long as the 323 drive line will work.

thanks JWMotorsports. i was getting with most guys that cost wise it be better to boost a N/A BP. to be turthfull most guys here if they ever get there will think 200-250whp is to fast and lower the boost. they do not know what they are getting themself into. iam boosting a N/A BP at 20psi on a SC61 as a daily but it could never happen if it wasn't for the engine mangement system. whats the deal with ur mx-3 haven't heard form it in a while.

Alright I am just bummed now, after a good 4 hours of research I have come to the conclusion that I am going to do a rebuild and then turbo my stock motor, that way im not f---ing around with mounts and axles and transmissions, blah blah so I have decided on the turbo manifold from a 323 gtx witch bolts up right? than the turbo that comes with the manifold, a VJ - h14 is it? and then hopefully upgrade to some bigger injectors 330cc im thinking. Also I am seriously considering tuning with the safc 2, so do you need to run FMU's with this setup or can the piggyback sustain a signal and trick it into injecting more>? also what kind of ignition upgrades do you guys usually go with, I have heard alot with MSD and I believe this would be a good product to go with so what is it, like a better disty. cap or wires or is it like a module that goes to the disty cap?

Also what is usually a safe amount of bore to go with on the stock b6de (i think it is, its a 95 dohc 1.6L) I was hoping to get it around 1.7 or 1.8. Also what kind of rods and pistons should I go with? I have heard of swapping the gtx rods and pistons in but I could have been wrong. SOmeone help me....... I am losing hope in this project

a lot of your questions have been answered. search.

iam done :roll:

JWMotorsports wrote:It looks like it comes with the trans and all from the listing. Things I'd ask them are what car and year did it come out of and was it FWD or AWD. The 323 trannies sit the axles back further than the Pro-LX or MX-3's do so you may would have to make custom mounts to get the 323 trans to work in the MX-3...or use the 323 trans brackets with the MX-3 mounts. You'll also need the axles. Most of us swap in the Pro-LX drive line using the MX-3 motor mounts with the Pro-LX trans brackets. This also requires modifying the oil pan for the jack shaft to clear...atleast it does when using the B6T oil pan...not sure about the BPT's. With my experiance with the B6T's and Pro-LX drive line the B6T's flywheel and clutch is nearly identical to the Pro-LX's.

Anyone here actually installed the 323 driveline in the MX-3?

As for engine management it appears your covered according to the add. Unless your looking to up the boost, etc... which can be tackeled numerous ways. What are your HP goals and what are you building the car for?

P.S.

Lime is correct...the BPT's are over rated unless you want to run rediculously high boost pressures needing the lower compression. We've ran 18psi with a small Mitsu 16G, pump gas, side mount IC on a NA BP and it took it like a champ! At 7psi it put down almost 200WHP with nearly 210 lb/ft. of torque. The GTR engine is even further overated as it basically only has Hollow cams and really beefy rods compaired to the BP or BPT. Dollar for Dollar the cheapest 1.8 to build is probably the NA BP. However the deal your looking at sounds almost to good to be true as long as the 323 drive line will work.

Josh has done it LOL. He did put all wheel drive in his Mazda so he does have a GTX or GTR tranny. This meaning he has the whole drivetrain setup.

well guys I am sorry there is alot of stuff I should have searched up on so sorry for being such a bother. Anywho I got a headstart on my project and purchased a nice little sidemount intercooler and a turbo, so I have a question that I am sure hasnt been answered because I spent alot of time searching. I am still going to run the gtx manifold but I purchased a T04E-50 trim/T3 stage 3 .48 A/R Garrett Turbo and I am curious as to wether or not the flanges will bolt up. If not I will just have a machine shop chop the flange and weld a t3 on. Also I am wondering if I am going to run into any clearance issues with the turbo being to close to the block once its bolted up, seeing as it is a larger turbo, but then again if it is I will just have the shop tilt the flange out a bit. Thanks again for the help

You are going to have to chop it because it has a different flange. for the clearance issue, I would talk the car to the shop that is going to put on the t3 flange and let them decide if it needs to be tilted.


Jeff

i listen to him. i have a custom turbo manifold and i am very close to touching the block with the turbo.

Is it internally gated housing or externally? If internally than you'll probably have to tilt it...if externally gated then you may get away with it as the 323 flange holds the turbo pretty high.

I don't really recommend this approach as welding cast tends to crack over time even when done correctly. If you take this approach...MAKE SURE....you have a good support bracket bolted to the block to hold the weight of the turbo to prevent the manifold from cracking. I'd consider having the manifold annealed after it is welded to stress relieve it and prevent cracking. The problem comes from the metallurgy differances between the cast iron and the steel that is welded to it allong with the filler material...make sure you take it to someone who has LOTS of experiance welding cast iron!!!!

I do make custom manfolds and I gaurentee they won't crack...if you wreck the car it will rip the cyl head off before you break one of my manifolds PM me for more info if interested.

The manifold on my drag car holds its own weight along with the turbo and the exhaust sytem...after over 15,000 miles of abuse it still hasn't cracked...we did this to prove the manfiolds strenght...PS...this was the first turbo manifold we ever made....but not our first rodeo with metal fabrication

yeah but you are in the states arent you? I dont really like the idea of having it shipped and whatnot but maybe we can work something out. How much would you charge for this manifold and how much would shipping be, I am hoping to get a log style manifold and I will probably be externally wastegating it, so I dont know, send me a message and perhaps we can work something out