V6 Throttle Sticking
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V6 Throttle Sticking
My car has always idled around 2500-3000rpm in hot weather, seemingly after a restart. I have tracked the problem down to the throttle cable I think. I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem and how they fixed it. I was thinking about just loosening the adjustment nuts on the cable and allowing the sleeve to rest closer to the throttle body. I haven't done this yet though because it doesn't do this when it's cool outside or when it's first started up. It seems like everything works fine. Should I just make this simple adjustment and see if it works, or should I try something else first?
Thanks,
-Eric
Thanks,
-Eric
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- Regular Member
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- Joined: July 10th, 2005, 12:11 pm
- Location: Wichita, Ks
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- Regular Member
- Posts: 142
- Joined: July 10th, 2005, 12:11 pm
- Location: Wichita, Ks
Pulling the pedal does no good. The throttle body itself has to pull the cable back to the idle position.
I think I'll just call mazda sometime and see what a new cable costs. I'm not really one for junkyards, and it doesn't seem like anyone wrecks these cars badly enough to total them around here anyway. I think there's one somewhere close to me but only that one, lol.
I think I'll try some sort of lubrication before I order a new cable though. Anything else I can use besides silicon? 3-N-1 or anything like that? I ask because I have some electric motor bushing oil laying around the house that I use for my r/c car habit. I'm also having trouble seeing how it'll flow its way all the way through that seemingly unnecessarily long cable.
Thanks,
-Eric
I think I'll just call mazda sometime and see what a new cable costs. I'm not really one for junkyards, and it doesn't seem like anyone wrecks these cars badly enough to total them around here anyway. I think there's one somewhere close to me but only that one, lol.
I think I'll try some sort of lubrication before I order a new cable though. Anything else I can use besides silicon? 3-N-1 or anything like that? I ask because I have some electric motor bushing oil laying around the house that I use for my r/c car habit. I'm also having trouble seeing how it'll flow its way all the way through that seemingly unnecessarily long cable.
Thanks,
-Eric
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I cleaned mine out...haha still sticks from time to time 

-hec
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
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Actually, I did squirt the TB down with carb cleaner, and it's just as smooth as can be. I'm 99% sure it's in the cable, unless there's something else down there that could be killing it.
I did look at the outer casing the other day, and it had rubbed through itself down to the metal inner casing, but I can't actually see the wire.
I think I might just need a new cable... But it looks like such a pain in the butt to change that I really want to avoid it
-Eric
I did look at the outer casing the other day, and it had rubbed through itself down to the metal inner casing, but I can't actually see the wire.
I think I might just need a new cable... But it looks like such a pain in the butt to change that I really want to avoid it

-Eric
- jschrauwen
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If your not up to dawning the coveralls and going with toolbox in hand to the junkyard, there are J/Y's out there that will pull the parts for you. I say to myself...hmmmmmm, 2-3 bucks for cable and maybe 15-20 bucks for power window switch if I pull them myself as opposed to 240+ bucks, hmmmmmmmm, in my books a no brainer. I've had about a 95% success rate in sourcing used electric and vaccum related devices from the J/Y, the odds are pretty good. For now, wrt the cable, loosen the 2 locking nuts like you were thinking and give yourself a lot of slack. If doing when it's cold I've given myself almost a 1/4" of free play which gradually gets eaten up as the engine gets warmer and still having the smallest amount of free play left. Graphite would go well here as a lubricant. 2500-3000 rpm idle....holy sh*t, how could you put up with that so long. Something's deffinitely wrong. If the cable adjustment doesn't get that idle down below 1000rpm all of the time than there's other issues at play here, but you haven't mentioned any other side issues like mileage etc.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2

90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas

90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
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Well, the car has 131000 miles on it, so it's not exactly under driven hehe
As far as the 2500rpm, it only does that when it's hot, in like 95 degree and higher weather. Basically, I only care about it during the summer. And it's been doing it recently since it's hot as heck outside. I know it's the cable, because if I go under the hood while it's idling high and yank on the cable, it'll drop back down to 500 or whatever it idles at. I really think I'll end up going to the dealership and just buying a cable even though I really don't want to.
I fixed my power window switch by the way :p I pulled it apart and the two clips that hold another plastic post had busted off. I pulled out my trusty super thin CA that I use for gluing tires on r/c cars and now it functions. Who knows how long it'll hold, but anything more than a couple bucks is too expensive for me on that thing, lol.
Thanks,
-Eric
As far as the 2500rpm, it only does that when it's hot, in like 95 degree and higher weather. Basically, I only care about it during the summer. And it's been doing it recently since it's hot as heck outside. I know it's the cable, because if I go under the hood while it's idling high and yank on the cable, it'll drop back down to 500 or whatever it idles at. I really think I'll end up going to the dealership and just buying a cable even though I really don't want to.
I fixed my power window switch by the way :p I pulled it apart and the two clips that hold another plastic post had busted off. I pulled out my trusty super thin CA that I use for gluing tires on r/c cars and now it functions. Who knows how long it'll hold, but anything more than a couple bucks is too expensive for me on that thing, lol.
Thanks,
-Eric