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Raising Power Window Part 2 :p

Posted: April 16th, 2005, 4:45 pm
by ttye0
http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=39846

You may want to check that link out before making suggestions. My window would occasionally not go back up. This pissed me off so much mainly because the plastic on my driver side switch box (on the driver side plastic piece) broke. When I took the POS apart and glued it back together properly I had such a hard time in the FL summer heat putting it back in that when I finally had it all screwed back in the window locking button was not setup properly. If the window didn't go back up all I'd have to do would be hit it a little (not severely hard at all) and it would instally go back up and work for awhile. Mind you, this is on the driver side switch box, for the passenger side window. One day the window just would not go back up.
After checking all kinds of s--- in the switch box and making sure all the wires in the passenger side were making good contact I figured I should just get a new motor. I CONNECTED the new motor and eventually just installed it (assuming the ground was retarded or something) and discovered....from the beginning...that this tested and working motor was NOT working in my car. Now at this point I had already fixed the locking button on the driver side switch box. So by theory this should be working. Yes, the cars ignition was in proper position.
In the process of taking apart the switch one of the f---ing springs ended up who knows where after finally deflecting it off of about 20 items and never finding it again after that. Right now my driver side switch box only has the driver side window switch and passenger window lock buttons in proper position. The passenger switch on the driver side box totally is not connected.

End results....window does not move at all anymore on passenger side. New motor for passenger window installed. Driver side window is STILL fully functionally. Money is a serious issue.

What should I do? The duct tape at WalMart is starting to run low. Had to take the damn bolts off the glass to keep the window covered well.

NOTE: New motor was tested and functional when sold to me.

Posted: April 16th, 2005, 6:51 pm
by Grants
The passenger side controls won't work if you disconnect the drivers switch.

As long as you don't need the drivers side controls to operate the passenger window, you can connect BOTH the GRN / WHT and the RED / WHT wires in the passenger side controls to ground. So long as you have 12V on the BLK / WHT wire the window will operate. That is, so long as the passenger switch is ok.

Posted: April 16th, 2005, 8:06 pm
by ttye0
When you say passenger side controls (on terms of where I'm changing wireing) do you mean on the driver side switch box?

Posted: April 16th, 2005, 8:45 pm
by Grants
No I mean the passengers side - but you should also be able to find those wires in the drivers side control box too - they link between the controllers. So you could ground them on either side of the car. What you should do is only ground out the ends that go to the controls on the passenger side.

Posted: April 17th, 2005, 10:45 pm
by ttye0
No luck :( No difference in non-functionality.

Posted: April 17th, 2005, 11:10 pm
by Grants
At the passenger controls, have you got 12V at the BLACK / WHITE wire? The drawing is on my web site under "info" if that might help you.

Posted: April 30th, 2005, 12:22 am
by ttye0
I checked the info on your site, still no luck. I ended up buying a new unit. I got it for roughly 180 or so from a local Mazda dealer. No junk yards or uded parts places had it or could find it. I installed the new unit and it worked great, just sucks I had to spend so much. It seems to me there was a problem with the locking function of it. Who knows.