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Oil Pressure Switch
Posted: June 16th, 2002, 2:05 pm
by frankp
is it the unit I found on D2-4 of the on-line manual, located on the housing where the oil filter is attached (just above the cooler portion)? If so are there any differences in switches between model years or vehicle serial numbers? [img]shrug.gif"%20border="0[/img] Mines leaking at the prong connection (not the thread). <P>Thanks Frank
Re: Oil Pressure Switch
Posted: June 16th, 2002, 2:24 pm
by pelado
Buy a new switch at your favorite auto parts store, they're not expensive.
Re: Oil Pressure Switch
Posted: June 16th, 2002, 2:34 pm
by frankp
Its the favorite parts store that is asking the question "differences in switches between model years or vehicle serial numbers" as he's got two listed and would have to order one or the other. Just curious, what does this switch actually do? The car runs fine when I disconnect the wire.<P>Frank
Re: Oil Pressure Switch
Posted: June 16th, 2002, 4:39 pm
by pelado
You'll notice there is no oil pressure gauge. This switch activates the low oil pressure light on your gauge cluster. It's the only warning you have of low oil pressure.<P>I don't understand the parts man's problem, he should know which one is OK for your model year. He should be able to query the supplier for applicability. If not, go to another parts store.
Re: Oil Pressure Switch
Posted: June 17th, 2002, 12:31 am
by Thalaric
I had the same problem. The oil pressure sensor seems to wear out and leak from the small poppit near where the wire connects. I went to a UAP/NAPA auto parts store and bought one for $3.00 CDN (the company I work for gets great deals from UAP). There's a special tool you can use to get the oil pressure sensor off easily, but I just used a good set of vice-grips. <P>Getting to the sensor itself is kinda hard. I removed the plastic air intake piece which mounts to the front of the engine bay. I had trouble getting to it from that angle, so I removed the plastic guards from underneath my MX-3 (just a couple of bolts, nothing major... use a size 10 metric wrench if you're worried about stripping the bolts.). <P>Total repair time (includes driving in my girlfriends car to UAP/NAPA.):<BR>1 hour to remove the old unit and to install the new one.<P><BR>P.S.:<BR>The actual sensor you buy should'nt make too much of a difference. The one I bought was a generic part that could be also used for a Probe, Focus, etc. Mazda, Ford, it's all the same...<p>[ June 16, 2002: Message edited by: Thalaric ]