MX-3.com

I'm going to throw another stick into things.

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... /Z-046.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

According to this, when either circuit is open, its sees 12v....

and it should be letting us start the car without the clutch, if its in neutral.... Hm.

Hmm..., we're definitely missing something here...
What that table says would confirm that the wiring diagram is right, and, as you said, if that was the case, we could start the car without the clutch when in neutral (which would be great, but we all know it's not true).

The diagram in the manual sucks.

But maybe the ECM looks for a drop in voltage rather than just a ground on that pin?

Plus, to measure ground, don't you have to sink some sort of voltage? This is what led me to believe that there was a diode or some kind of protection in there...

Hmm. One thing's for sure: that wiring diagram is wrong.
The computer can't look for a drop, because in that case, if you turn the kep with the tranny already on neutral, the voltage on the input would always be "0", so you wouldn't be able to start the car.

There has to be something the wiring diagram is not telling us.
Maybe you or Ryan could get a multimeter and check the circuit. I will see (when I get the manual) if the MX-6 has the same circuit, and if it does I'll do it here.

Well, its -36 with the wind chill today, so I won't be sticking a multimeter deep into an engine bay any time soon.

I'm in Florida and it's 34 here. And windy!

It's windy in Tampa?
Here in Miami it's been raining all day...

PoisonDrop wrote:I'm in Florida and it's 34 here. And windy!

I never knew it gets that cold in Florida.

yeah, you poor baby.

Yeah it's funny, I hear they wear winter jackets when it's like 5C degrees

I think you guys are way over complicating this. The neutral swith is just a switch, you don't need to worry or should you be sending power to it. There should be no power at all through your circuit except to power 1 relay. I can see your concern about sending power to the ECU. Theoretically it shouldn't, but I'll think it over for other options that are sure safer.

I'd draw you a nice diagram, but I'm at work, but I'll see if I can explain it with words:

Using 1 relay:
- Connect pin 86 on the relay to a wire that does to to the switch, cut the factory harness and run your wire to the end that runs to the switch. If you really want to keep the switch connected to the factor line, where you cut it, put a diode in there. Ya i'll loose a 0.7 voltage drop, but it's just looking for contiuity, and cars are designed to run between 10 and 15 volts, so 0.7 isnt' an issue. You'll be using the neutral switch as the ground for the relay. Relay only power on when when switch in on (shifter is in neutral).
- Connect pin 85 on the relay to a switched/ignition (and fused - 1a) power source
- Connect pin 30 to one wire on the clutch swich
- Connect pin 87 to the other wire on the clutch switch, with the switch you want to use inline.

Any questions, you can PM or even msn/e-mail me mfortin2(at)cogeco.ca

I knew we were over-thinking this!



And for the rest of the system's diagram:

Nd4SpdSe wrote:

That circuit does nothing but connect wires that are already connected...

Plus, he's trying to bypass the starter interlock switch, not the clutch switch. Without bypassing the starter interlock switch, the starter will not get power.

Oh that will work, but you need to look at the diagram, and also know how the car works. As far as i know, the clutch switch IS the starter interlock switch

"Starter Interlock Switch (Clutch Start Switch). Switch is mounted on bracket near top front cluch pedal. Disconnect switch harness connector. Using ohmmeter, ensure continuity exists between switch connector terminals when clutch pedal is depressed."

First of all, we know that we can't start with just the shifter in neutral, so the diagrams we have are partially wrong, however we know that it does go to ground. It just means you need to tap into the wiring harness for the neutral switch at a point in the harness where we know it will work, closest tot he switch or at a point that we cna physically trace back and on the harness open until grounded

That diagram is 100% correct. I see what you saying/seeing, but that circuit will ground the clutch switch circuit when the switch is enabled, but it can only go to ground when the shifter is in neutral. You're right, it's connecting wires that are already connected, which means NO DAMANGE will occur to the ECU since nothing if out of placem, whether the switch is pressed or not.