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Agree with Blake. The fan method should not be used to dial it in. Only a prelim test. There are a combination of things to adjust and get it dialed in.

BTW my KL36 does not throw my check engine. but it is probably because you have no EGR hooked up.

WHAT?!?!? some actually agreeing with blake for once well the smog guy was worried about the light not coming on at all when the car cuts on the acctual codes have nothing to do with the smog and i just got a feeler gauge and multi meter now so im going to go at it after my lunch yum yum

Sorry to harass you over it, but no engine will run perfectly without this! You'll thank me later!
Those are 2 tools that you will be happy you purchased, you will use them more than you think.

Your check engine light isn't coming on at all? As in not even when you turn the key to accessory, prior to starting?
That sounds like a burnt out bulb to me.

The EGR valve is closed at idle.. it works under various load conditions while driving... This would be partially a reason you failed at the 25mph test...

But what kind of CAT are you running?? Some/most after market cats just aren't good enough when it comes to smogging a vehicle... usually you end up failing on NOx....

With your readings, getting the EGR valve to work will probably get you to pass, but its possible you might need a better cat depending on what kind you have..

MrMazda92 wrote:Sorry to harass you over it, but no engine will run perfectly without this! You'll thank me later!
Those are 2 tools that you will be happy you purchased, you will use them more than you think.

Your check engine light isn't coming on at all? As in not even when you turn the key to accessory, prior to starting?
That sounds like a burnt out bulb to me.

i have a kl36 ecu. I was under the understanding they dont have a CEL u have to do some LED thing under the hood. It may be burnt out....

crazycanadian wrote:The EGR valve is closed at idle.. it works under various load conditions while driving... This would be partially a reason you failed at the 25mph test...

But what kind of CAT are you running?? Some/most after market cats just aren't good enough when it comes to smogging a vehicle... usually you end up failing on NOx....

With your readings, getting the EGR valve to work will probably get you to pass, but its possible you might need a better cat depending on what kind you have..

Ah ok so i had it back words.....im running some random california carb i got at a muffler shop down the street. But these readings are with no EGR at all so im sure the cat is good.

oh man now i have to go and get a K8 TB and intake manifold. I was hoping i would pass without it..... im sure at pic and pull ill be paying 200 bucks easily

OK well followed the FAQ on this site and the write up on PT word for word. The car was running fine until I drove around the block it started to surge again.

Hurray! i love my KLZE

WARNING TO ALL THOSE WANTING TO SWAP OUT YOUR PERFECTLY RUNNING K8.....DONT

Im cutting my loses on the DIY crap and taking it into the shop. I guess we will see what they can do

In the mean time ill wait to get a K8 mani and TB to run my EGR. If the repair is too costly the part out will begin. Out of frustration i already listed all the parts for sale in WORD so i can just copy and paste it over

That's crazy, don't part it out. If you do I might be interested in some stuff. Anyways, I've probably had some of the worst surging idle problems myself and always turned out to be the IAC valve on the throttle body. Never was it timing, vac leaks, air in coolant, tps setting or any sensors. TPS and timing still need to be set though. I've been through 4 IAC valves in 3 years before finally finding one that works the way it should. No issues with surging idle for 2 years now and idles 100 % perfect. What a difference a good IAC valve will do. Your car will run rich with a bad IAC valve as well and could contribute to not passing smog as the engine is trying to compensate for unmetered air. You can test valve with a multimeter and also you should be able to hear the actuator operate in the valve when you turn your key in the on position. Honestly from what i've found there's no good way of testing it other than trying a known good one or going through a few until you find a good one. Try finding another throttle body to try. Millenia's have the same IAC valve and will swap over to the K8 throttle body if thats what you are running. Anyways give it a try before you give up and I also found never try adjusting the idle screw if it doesn't need to be. Have done this and went from bad idle, no surge to bad surge and bouncy idle when adjusting idle screw even in diagnostic mode. I think it causes the valve to fail if its almost on its way out. I bet its your IAC !! Hope you figure it out. No there is no check engine light or diagnostics on the kl36 ecu. Thats why I always keep a K8 ecu

I will try and pic up a IAC at the pic and pull. If it doesnt work i know u could take it in and exchange it. There is like 4 or 5 KL´s in the yard I believe. Its worth a try....

ok i have taken a break on the TPS fiasco for one day and out of boredom I redid my cluster gauge as the car is not my wifes anymore its only mine..if it lasts lol I will post up old pink interior pics once the mazdaspeed interior is done. Just for entertainment purposes lol




I also rigged up my Check engine light to come one when you turn the key for smog inspection next week i rigged it up to the oil light. Its not because it was out the bulb was fine. The ECU just doesnt have a CEL on JDM mazdas its something like a check washer fluid, 4WS or something else random... Only in california do you WANT a CEL to be lit.... This state is so dumb




I found a Mazdaspeed bonnet badge but not the one I want
but it will do I guess. Also my big brake kit from Ceika is done being built and shipped out friday. It should be here no later than the 15th according to UPS. This makes my partout a little more complicated if it happens. I bought the kit WAAAY before i even had this swap issue...

I am also looking at getting the wife a 2003.5 MSP because the mazda5 i was going to buy was bought from under me. Does anyone here have a MSP? Are they a pretty good car?

I heard MSP are not the most reliable... But never had one so don't quote me...

I have seen/heard much the same on this forum, but little elsewhere.

Buy something reliable, that you won't have to tinker with weekly... You won't regret it, no matter what it is.

in stock form its a beautiful car, lil bs with things like egr(theres an updated candian version thats $150 and is much more reliable). coils are next on the list as well as rear sway bar links.
usually a misfire begins shortly after and if left to long it destroys the cats when then plug and pressure kills the motor lol.

door lock actuators go after awhile and the msp has a decent sound system but if its still the stock head unit then i'd replace that as the ribbon cable is known to die. and like most mazdas watch out for rust....especially in the rear quarters.

its a low boost setup and tons of fun, but like all cars it has its quirks but the pros way outweigh the cons. thinking about getting another one as my dd/ winter beater.

kulluminati777 wrote:OK well followed the FAQ on this site and the write up on PT word for word. The car was running fine until I drove around the block it started to surge again.

Surging while driving or idling?

mx3matt wrote:in stock form its a beautiful car, lil bs with things like egr(theres an updated candian version thats $150 and is much more reliable). coils are next on the list as well as rear sway bar links.
usually a misfire begins shortly after and if left to long it destroys the cats when then plug and pressure kills the motor lol.

door lock actuators go after awhile and the msp has a decent sound system but if its still the stock head unit then i'd replace that as the ribbon cable is known to die. and like most mazdas watch out for rust....especially in the rear quarters.

its a low boost setup and tons of fun, but like all cars it has its quirks but the pros way outweigh the cons. thinking about getting another one as my dd/ winter beater.

ah ok yeah i want a car thats for the family but i would still drive around if the MX3 is down. I was also wanting a MS6 or a MS3 but people want WAAAAY to much for those. I seen a silver MSP locally for only 3000USD and thats pretty good even if i had to put 1000 into the car with repairs. I also want something that is already what I like, wouldnt have to "modify" and is good for the family.

The Evo and STI´s fall in that catagory as well but everyone and there grandma drives one. Only because its whats "hip" these days

Nd4SpdSe wrote:

kulluminati777 wrote:OK well followed the FAQ on this site and the write up on PT word for word. The car was running fine until I drove around the block it started to surge again.

Surging while driving or idling?

only idling. While driving the car is mint! pulls hard its smooth. The flywheel took awhile to get used to though

Is it when you're holding the brake pedal maybe? I spoke to a service manager at the local Mazda dealer who comes to our liquor store last week and he said back in the day MX-3s were pretty bad for having the surging for a bunch of dumb reasons like bad brake booster, vac leaks(from the factory....) and shorts in the rear brake lights.