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Probably, but why? accessory belt tension isn't rocket science. Just eye ball it, like wheel nut torque. The manual has a spec for force -> deflection. If it squeals, its too loose or your accessory is broken. Don't make it too tight. (rings a high C when you pluck it )

B6 SOHC
B6 DOHC
K8/KL

Alrighty, two more intermittent issues.

#1

If I am accelerating decently hard (3/4 throttle) and shifting at 4k RPM, I find a dead spot in the next gear from gear-4.2 ish. I'm assuming this is a VRIS thing, but why doesn't it do it in a 3/4 throttle pull when I shift anywhere below 4? Its like it drops into the next gear just a few RPM over the VRIS point so it forgets to switch...

#2

When the car gets really wet it acts up under low throttle (or cruise) and at WOT around 2-3k RPM. surging/bouncing, but still makes the proper exhaust noise, but hardly accelerating, so I'm guessing that its retarding the timing like crazy.

Ryan wrote:Probably, but why? accessory belt tension isn't rocket science. Just eye ball it, like wheel nut torque. The manual has a spec for force -> deflection. If it squeals, its too loose or your accessory is broken. Don't make it too tight. (rings a high C when you pluck it )

B6 SOHC
B6 DOHC
K8/KL

Mine squeals every time I start it Its been tightened until the tensioners bolt bent (still had 2inches of movement left) I replaced the alternator. it "was" squealing when I started the car. I could shut other and start it and it would be gone. now It Just squeals. WTF... How am I supposed to find out it the damn alternator is screwed?

Sounds like an alternator to start with, and Im pretty sure your voltage regulator is part of the alternator so if that was your problem to begin with you should have changed it already and put a new belt on. As for that much play you are either routing it wrong in frustration or they gave you the wrong belt.

Sleeper6 wrote:Sounds like an alternator to start with, and Im pretty sure your voltage regulator is part of the alternator so if that was your problem to begin with you should have changed it already and put a new belt on. As for that much play you are either routing it wrong in frustration or they gave you the wrong belt.

This is the new alternator. Only started this issue after I changed it.
Used the original belt. (Problem found?)
its routed the way it was on before

What are you referring to as play my tensioner had 2 inches more to Move when it bent.

It sounds excessive that you have to move your belt tensioner that much to get the belt changed. When I do mine I only need to loosen it shy of an inch and put the new one on. Again it is possible to have a defective bearing in a new alternator as well, exspecially if its a reman.

Sleeper6 wrote:It sounds excessive that you have to move your belt tensioner that much to get the belt changed. When I do mine I only need to loosen it shy of an inch and put the new one on. Again it is possible to have a defective bearing in a new alternator as well, exspecially if its a reman.

but then it shouldn't stop squealing which it does

Dragon: check your A/C compressor. They tend to seize.

Also, if your compressor is not the problem, you will need to check your electrical system. The alternator will get harder to turn, the more current is demanded from it. That means, if you have a short circuit somewhere (your battery and your A/C clutch should be your main suspects), the alty can eventually become stiff enough to squeal.

Inodoro Pereyra wrote:Dragon: check your A/C compressor. They tend to seize.

Also, if your compressor is not the problem, you will need to check your electrical system. The alternator will get harder to turn, the more current is demanded from it. That means, if you have a short circuit somewhere (your battery and your A/C clutch should be your main suspects), the alty can eventually become stiff enough to squeal.

Its just my stupidity, I forgot to to loosen the locking nut. On the tensioner. Thanks for the help anyway.

Ok here is a quick question.
If i use gtr connecting rods in a bp with stock pistons first or second with aftermarket pistons do i need to balance the crankshaft?
Thanks..

Even the factory balance isn't great, so I suggest a balance for all engine builds. Its pretty cheap insurance.

Just weigh the rod itself and see how bad it is. A couple grams is a lot.

Gtr rods are stronger than gtx or bp non turbo right?

I'm not sure, I never went that deep into BP's, but if no one gets back to you on here, I suggest clubprotege.com

Just because I am about to pull it any consequences of pulling the Reverse Light Switch out such as Trans Oil Greeting my Face?

Need to clean the switch, and its kind of in a spot I would expect oil to come out PIC

^ Yes, there will be oil!