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Increased airflow(w/ added fuel, naturally), reduced rotating mass, and increased VE are the way to go.

The little things make the difference, no questioning that.

The hard part, when you start dumping more fuel, is maintaining economy... This is where I have to hold back a little bit, it'd be "easy" to make big power if economy wasn't part of the picture... Same with drivability. You could build a 300 BHP Dyno Queen for under $3,000, but nobody would want to drive it...

300 for 3K are you paying someone to build that for you?!

My BP is lucky to see 20mpg's just wait until I have the 740cc's in... with 460's I got as low as 16mpg with the B6DE...

Haha no, I'm not paying anyone to do anything(except machining, as I can't do it myself ). If I could pay someone to do it for me, I wouldn't be building a KL, I'd throw in massive H beam rods, 10:1 Diamond Pistons, and boost the crap out of it, with a herculean PAR gearset in the trans.

MrMazda92 wrote:Haha no, I'm not paying anyone to do anything(except machining, as I can't do it myself ). If I could pay someone to do it for me, I wouldn't be building a KL, I'd throw in massive H beam rods, 10:1 Diamond Pistons, and boost the crap out of it, with a herculean PAR gearset in the trans.

Nice the PAR gear set is the last thing on the list for the RS... It is the only thing you can do for the AWD trans, they are just weak.

If/when I rebuild my KL I will get the KL31 crank knife edged, it saves so much weight. and I will do it cheap and go with Milly rods. and the bottom end would be done. But swapping in a KJ would be cool too...

I doubt I'll ever go for the PAR gears, unless I decide one day to shoot for 400+ WHP in an MX-3... If that day ever comes, I'd probably be better off springing for a custom trans, like what Michael Perry is doing with the G6, but I doubt I'll ever try to put 400 down on a FWD car.

I still haven't even SEEN your AWD car, it bums me out! Will you be bringing it to the next meet??

Honestly, you can't go wrong with a KLC7(KLG4) Crank, they've been proven sturdy enough to handle high boost(GoldMember is the only MX-3 example I know of, but PT members have used them as well), and you'd be able to reduce more weight from that as well.

The KJ would be great for the cool factor, but it'd be a nightmarish swap... I've had the pleasure of tearing into one finally, and I've seen first hand that it'd barely even fit in the engine bay(I'd say major hood clearance issues, it's taller than a KL, and the top end is wider front to back), before you even looked at the wiring harness

The intake would need to be reworked, maybe using an FMIC instead of the smaller IC units placed around the top end, otherwise fitment would be almost impossible.

If you figure out an AWD swap for the KL, that'll handle 300+ WHP without making tranny soup(Dan, don't even touch that one, please! ), then you'd be my hero forever.

people have fit the KJ into probes, and protege5's. so if it fit in the very low hood of the probe, the mx3 shouldnt be any harder. but no one has been able to figure out the electrical of the swap. personally i cant wait till someone finally figured out one of those swaps with a MTX.

and the Par gears are cool. i just wish our Par 3rd had worked out better. it doesnt take down shifting very well at the track. thats actually the lone reason we didnt track the car this year. we waiting to get time to rip the trans back out, and slap the old GTX 3rd gear back in that was previously installed.

How did the intake fit properly? The thing's a monster, based solely on the orientation of the engine in the bay(compared to a KL Millenia), the front of it would sit a few inches higher than the left(forward) head of the KL.

How much clearance does the Probe have above the forward(left) Valvecover? Our hood is sloped more, we may have less clearance in that area.

I haven't tried to fit one, I'm only going off of 2 Millenias sitting side by side in a junkyard, so it's by no means a thorough test.

Here's a shot of the protege5 with the swap in. it also is bolted to the KL MTX trans. ( The same guy has a turbo KLZE Festiva)




also there was another member earlier this year swapping a KJ millercycle into a mx3. last i knew the engine was all bolted up, and he was just trying to figure out a brain for the thing.

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701306782

I like how this has nothing to do with a crank swap anymore.

Reel it back, reel it back...

I feel like getting my KL31 crank balanced with this assembly and using them both to determine the difference.

But it ain't gonna happen, that would be a stupid waste of time and money.

Final off topic post from me, I promise

Wow, I swear the front IC was taller than the forward VC of a KL, maybe it really does clear without issue.
It'd be an interesting swap, now that I think of it does the KJ have a different auto trans than the other K series vehicles?

MrMazda92 wrote:Final off topic post from me, I promise

Wow, I swear the front IC was taller than the forward VC of a KL, maybe it really does clear without issue.
It'd be an interesting swap, now that I think of it does the KJ have a different auto trans than the other K series vehicles?

My Last one too. It wont clear an MX3 hood, the front IC is too tall and the motor mounts have to be lowered.

SuperK wrote:I like how this has nothing to do with a crank swap anymore.

Reel it back, reel it back...

I feel like getting my KL31 crank balanced with this assembly and using them both to determine the difference.

But it ain't gonna happen, that would be a stupid waste of time and money.

When or if I rebuild my ZE I will make sure to do this and post my results. I bet at least 2 - 4 lbs could be shaved by knife edging. Some of the best information I have come across is here (http://www.xtremethings.com/Trick_Tips.htm)

The other thing I would like to look into is a racing flywheel with a dual plate clutch. I am talking like a 4 - 5 lb flywheel