march 1/8th mile times.....

[JWMotorsports]

Hopefully I'll have you guys some 1/8th mile times in about 4-5weeks. It's looking shady though. I'm looking to have a T3 flange welded to the stock Cast Iron turbo manifold for a little while till I can save up for a custom equal length manifold. That and I'm waiting on Corksport to finish rounding up the turbo parts. Then they have to get the exhaust housing ceramic coated for me (I might also have it Extrude Honed). Then I get the nightmare of putting it in the car and changing up the compressor out let IC pipe & the exhaust downpipe up to the T3 housing!!

[Hex3]

in 1/8 of a mile i have run 9.628 @ 74.75
may best 60' foot really sucks 2.231, its hard for me to get a good launch, i get so much wheel hope. But hopefully this summer that will be fixed.

[torpedan]

Given the power some people would expect a better 60ft but unless your gonna run a drag radial or slick and waste a tranny or two i wouldnt stress to much over it.

[Shady469]

got 2 runs in on the new motor (B6t)... both @ 8 pounds.
1st run launched way to hard no traction through 2nd (i tached 2nd by the 60 ft) hit 3rd and blew a hose in the intercooler piping. went. 16.3264 @ 34.422
2nd run i launched like i would at a normal start(WAY to cautious but i didnt want a repeat of the last run). went 10.645 @ 75.826
i need slicks...

[torpedan]

only go for the slicks if your ready to drop in another tranny really quick otherwise stick to street rubber and carful luanches.

[aaronthehic]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by torpedan:
only go for the slicks if your ready to drop in another tranny really quick otherwise stick to street rubber and carful luanches.[/QUOTE<p>I don't agree with that. personnally I have sheared 2 axle shafts on street tires because of wheel hop and none on the drag radials I think because of more side wall flex to absorbe most of the shock from wheel hop. + they don't hop near as much,<p>also I think you will braek an axle before the tranny which is fine by me because they are lifetime warranty.<p>I am running close to 300 hp (39/25 n2o) shifting with a cm stage 4 clutch and the tranny is fine.<p>I would not be afraid of slicks + radial IMO

[lazzyie]

I would like to ditto the axles breaking first!!! Tranmission will be good as long as you arent an idiot about launching your car. It isnt a honda no 6000 rpm launches .

[torpedan]

Define an idiot for how one laucnhes a car.. I do what gives the best 60ft.. and the transmission gave out well before the axels.. This was on street tires at the track.

[Shady469]

simmer down yous guys... didnt know my post was cause such a fuss...
if i can get the I/C pipes bead welded this week i'll be turning up the boost and goin to the track again this fri... on falkens. im still leary about slicks, a buddy said i could use his but ill see how the falkens do(might opt for nitto450's).
ps when are the times goin to be updated? i saw the may list but im still listed for the SOHC time

[JWMotorsports]

Breaking the tranny....this all depends on which type tranny you are using, the F25M-R or G25M-R?<p>F25M-R:
-stock in the 4cyl MX-3's
-Personally I have broken 2 different F25's with my B6T. I broke the differential in both of them, with out excessive wheel hop!
-wouldn't recommend more than around 160ft/lb of torque abusing these trannys unless you had them cryo treated. Not sure about axles except they are several mm smaller than the Pro-LX's
-Final drive is I believe right at 4:11<p>G25M-R:
-stock in the MX-3 GS and the Protege LX (difference being in the diff, if I remember)
-Corksport claims the tranny & axles are fine for abuse of up to 300ft/lbs of torque in stock form!!!!
-Personally I have the Pro-LX one bolted to my B6T in my MX-3 which was originally a 93 RS SOHC.
-Gearing in 1st, 2nd, & 3rd are much taller. However 4th, and 5th are considerably shorter. Makes for a NICE turbo tranny!!! You can even swap out 5th gear for a taller one out of a MX-6 (don't remember wich year).
-Final drive in the Pro-LX one I belive is a 3:25<p>
So now you guys have some good guid lines to go by now!
WARNING!!!!!!!!
Wheel Hop will kill your tranny VERY quickly!!!!<p>Things you can do to reduce or eleminate wheel hop:
-Traction bars:
-All though made for Hondas, they can be custom fabricated for ANY car. My friend did this for his Honda cuz he didn't wanna pay $350 for the Competition Engineering set.<p>-SRD Performance Front arm Bushings:
-"CNC-machined kit of bushing inserts replaces the OEM rubber bushings. Nycast (Nylatron) composite plastic with dry lubricant will provide years squeak-free service.<p>Advantages:<p>Nylatron Bushings will keep the front suspension geometry from changing under heavy cornering loads. Outside wheel's camber would typically increase (more positive) with the OEM bushings thus reducing the tire's contact patch. Keep you negative camber negative with the nylatron bushings!
Nylatron Bushings will reduce/eliminate wheel hop during hard launches. "soft" OEM rubber bushings will allow wheel to jitter in the axis of the car during launches causing partial loss of traction and dangerous stress on your drivetrain components.
A lot less expensive than OEM and uprated rubber bushings.
Drawbacks<p>NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness) will be increased by a moderate level. OEM bushings are a compromise between performance and comfort. If you're looking for ultimate performance we know you can tolerate a bit more road vibration and harshness...
Note: kit contains 2 left hand and 2 right hand bushing inserts. Control arms and Control arm bushing brackets are not included. See "installation" below. Fit all MX-3s"<p>-SRD Front Crossmember:
-"V6 owners: upgrade your 4.5lbs OEM Stamped steel Crossmember with a stronger, stiffer and 1.5lbs lighter Aluminium billet unit. This crossmember installs in minutes with basic tools. Helps to maintain the front suspension's geometry under hard cornering, provides faster steering response and significatly stiffens the chassis. CNC-machined from 6061T6 Aluminium, comes unpolished.<p>4 cylinder owners: your car is missing another important part especially if you have aftermarket wheels and/or lowered suspension! We are currently looking in ways to easily install this brace with minimal modifications to the RS' chassis. Stay tuned!<p>Function: the crossmember (sometimes called transverse member) joins the two chassis pickup points of the front suspension's control arms. Under heavy cornering, tremendous forces are applied to the chassis and without proper bracing will flex and generate poor steering response. V6 MX-3s are fitted with a "C" shaped stamped steel crossmember economical to mass produce. OEM brace provides a relatively high degree of bracing but because of the "C" shape some deformation is allowed. Furthermore, torsional resistance is quite poor: you can actually twist the part with your hands. Here comes the SRD crossmember: 150% stronger longitudinally and 275% stiffer torsionnally. As a bonus part is 1.5lbs lighter. Don't let your car twist in the twisties!"<p>-Mazdaspeed Rear Lower Control Arm Kit:
-Stronger than the stock ones the provide a stronger stance helping the car keep the weight from shifting on to the rear tires. This aids in better traction!<p>-After Market Springs with high rates than stock:
-by using stiffer springs it functions like the Mazdaspeed Rear Lower Control Arm Kit<p>-After Market Struts:
-same as above!<p>-Mazdaspeed Strut Mounts:
-much firmer mount than the oem. Helps to hold the suspention in geometry under extreme loads!<p>Most of these parts are available from Corksport, just tell Derrick Jeremy from Virgina sent ya.<p>This will help alot of you that aren't familiar with the GRAVE importance of your suspention system!!!<p>There are also more things you can do.<p>P.S.<p>This should be added to the Suspention FAQ please!!!

[aaronthehic]

less type, more times. that was good info and puts the issue to death for me.