MX-3.com

Since my last update ive added the RS raised spoiler and a GS front lip:







I do need better tires, even the Ziex 912's arent cutting it on dry pavement,
something stickier with more surface contact. Probably have to go to 16's or
17 inch rims for this...

you own my dream car =(

it's looking fantastic, you going to lower it?

Car looks stunning mike, you must be very pleased with the result thus far. Fieromx3 or w.e has some front clear signal lights for sale in the fs section, if you wanted some to match your sides.

Keep up the good work.

Its lowered about an inch from the KYB/Eibach combo.

Clear signals would be a nice addition, im also looking for
GTX/GTR turbo cams to test out on the dyno which
is better - NA cams or Turbo cams.

Mi|<E wrote:Its lowered about an inch from the KYB/Eibach combo.

Clear signals would be a nice addition, im also looking for
GTX/GTR turbo cams to test out on the dyno which
is better - NA cams or Turbo cams.

took a better look at my car and that's about right, i forgot i had a crap load of stuff in the back XD

too bad i'm not in calgary right now, my engine's a GTX engine so we probably could of set a day to borrow my cams (that way i could of stolen some help from you and change my seals =P)

I think I have a set of GTX cams I could sell you. What are they worth?

Hey wanna make me a harness for a 95 rs? Lol

It's running a stock modified harness, b6 ecu and b6
Maf. And it eats gas and doesn't run at full
Potential.

It's a jdm familia non turbo bp.

I own a escort gt engine harness, ecu and vaf, but
I'd never trust myself with that much wiring

So this is what it takes to reduce valve overlap from 19 degrees down to 10 degrees:


First thing is to find the appropriate GTX/GTR BP26 camshafts:




Next is to remove the old BP05 cams:




And replace with new ones




Always remember to replace camshaft seals when you replace them from your
gasket drawer:




And just a note removing this piece of plastic timing belt cover was the worst
part of the entire process:

yay! we get a new dyno printout!

Yeah my tuner isn't on this continent right now

So returning hot coolant from the turbo to the thermostat housing like this is a bad idea:




Mainly because it opens the thermostat before the engine is warmed up and causes free
flowing coolant. This makes for a not happy running engine.


So here is my fix:

First cap off the thermostat housing:


Then split the return off into two 5/16" lines and return it to where the throttle body inlet and
outlet go to. No problems so far.




Also I did away with the valve cover breather as it was getting oil soaked way too often:




I may take this line to a oil catch can if the intake gets too much oil in it.

Love this worklog. Your super innovative its great

love the clean understated look of the car.

My deck deficated the bed so I picked up a mo-bedda replacement:





I took the time to replace the wideband LED that burned out on me aswell, it
makes resetting it much easier knowing its actually doing something now.

i want a ride in this beast when i'm back in town