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wytbishop wrote:You don't add fluid through the lock screw. There's a plug on the side of the cylinder body where you add the fluid. Let the hoist down all the way and add fluid to the plug on the side. Pump it up and let it down again and re-add until it won't take any more fluid.

Yep filled through the fill hole (half way up the cyl) No dice, something bad must have happened inside.

Priced the replacement cylinder, it is $99.99. SOLD! Honestly spent at least 4 hours facking with it and an untold amount of Hydraulic fluid all over me, and the floor, trying to force it in the tiny fill hole.

Fooled around at the garage for a couple hours today. Used a old school chrome coil bracket as my new fuel filter bracket.



Trimmed the coil cover to become the new fuel filter cover.


Finished smancy fuel filter bracket.


Located and found bolts for all the engine & frame mounts.


Put my new Hydraulic cylinder on the engine hoist.


Found a last minute issue with the headers. There is a ginormous threaded metric port in the header for the non-existent EGR line. Some how manged to remove the rusted nasty looking EGR fitting off the old K8 (MX-3 engine). I am going to pound a bolt into it, weld it up and fashion myself a EGR plug.

Princess auto stuff FTW

solo_ryder wrote:Princess auto stuff FTW

that's where i got my $20 spring compressors!

solo_ryder wrote:Princess auto stuff FTW

X2....

Ya I love Princess Auto

Made a EGR plug today.








Mounted up the headers.


Short wrench saved the day


New rubbers mounted in the engine crossmember.


Engine on the hook and in the air......this time.










Engine went in pretty smooth, think I would leave the throttle body off if I were to do it again.

Found a drivers side axle and made it pretty. Does a MX-3 and a 323 have the same drivers side axle? (Not sure what car this one came out of)





Axles installed.


I had put the lower rear bushings in backwards. Corrected that today.


Put the shifter in. This thing is in rough shape, took a few strategic sheet metal screws fixed it.




The shifter is in. Felt good to row some gears!


A few: I am tired and going to take random pictures-pictures.






Rad sitting in place.


Everything is going well. Thinking I may need to get creative with one hard brake line. Thinkin' use a banjo bolt from the MX-3 master cyl, should fix it.

God this looks epic.. Makes me wanna mod the 323 sitting the carport at my rents place.... Hmm...

solo_ryder wrote:God this looks epic.. Makes me wanna mod the 323 sitting the carport at my rents place.... Hmm...

if i ever got my paws on a decent 323 i would so do this swap, ever since seeing the RHD conversion klze swap done to a 323 on the probetalk forums ive wanted to do one

Ya Dan's car is sick. I am like a poor less talented Dan LOL

Made a new thottle cable bracket tonight.











Looks like my kustom rad is actually going to work. I was not sure, when the passenger outlet appeared to be pointed at the alternator. Now the the alternator is installed and I mocked up the fenders, bumper and grille, looks like a 90 degree fitting will save the day

Rad hose (needs to be cut to lenght)


Day saving fitting.


Another cooling system fix. (Coolant air bleed). I am going to drill and tap the filler neck for this guy. Not 100% it is needed. My research says a purge tank or air bleed will not be needed as the coolant fill on the engine is the highest point of the cooling system ?!?


The thottle body is very close to the master cyl (even with the brake fluid reservoir relocated). Still not 100% sure how to fix this. I have a few ideas though. Spectre has a plastic universal air intake pipes. I was thinking I could heat one up and "mold" it around the Master Cyl. I was also thinking I could put a 2 3/4" silcone coupler on the throttle body then fabricate the first "corner" out of fiberglass then silicone couple it to the VAF. Note: a shortened MX-3 V6 banjo bolt is bolted into the master in a very early mock up stage in the photos.

Check out the first and second gen. probe master cylinders. I believe they are shorter and bolt right up.

AaronTietje wrote:Check out the first and second gen. probe master cylinders. I believe they are shorter and bolt right up.

Bolt right up to a 323?

What about like a 90 or 45 deg silicone coupler? Maybe a wedge aluminum spacer on the mani before the TB?

An MX3 GS master cly might be a little shorter than that one.

GS master is a totally different design from the other BG platform cars. your best bet would be to fit a MX-6 booster which is slimmer than the 323/MX-3 RS one and the 323 master will bolt straight up.

...if you haven't already done that.

Talked to a Raybestos tech, looks like a MX-6 / Probe GT master will bolt-up to a 323 and the offending brake lines will be coming out the left instead of sticking straight up

Wytbishop: I think if the brake line was not sticking straight up, I would be in business. Looks like the MX-6 / Probe GT master will give me the 1/2" I need to put a 90 degree silicon coupler on the throttle body. In the picture I have a rusty MX-3 Banjo in the offending port. That port is on the left on the MX-6 / Probe GT. Looks like I will get off easy, just having to make one new hard line. (The MX-6 has two ports on the left and one in the bottom). The 323 has one port on the right, one straight up and one on the bottom.

Josh: I had a 1994 MX-3 V6 as a parts car, the master/booster is a totally different animal. I may be able to fit a 90 degree fitting on the throttle body with the brake line out of the way.

makes sense. All the other BG's and k engine cars have the same looking master. The MX-3's is similar to the Millenia's.

MX-6 master and booster would give you scads of room.