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I think it says KL68. I wish i were still in the shop to confirm it. But I'm pretty sure its 68

That's jdm, you have the 10:1 compression. 190bhp engine. Pretty sure.

The US millenia and Euro Xedos came with the KL-47.


You can't really check very easy, I used an endoscope. Through the spark plug hole.

But Kl-68 is 99% sure indication that it is an jdm engine.



PS: the ventilation pipe does look damaged (bent) on the front.

So, j-spec ze with kl01 cams and curve neck intake? Is that normal? And yeah... I noticed it was bent while taking it off. Not a big problem I can get another.

190HP is somewhat of an overstatement... There's no way 10:1 pistons opposed to 9.2:1 would make 20HP. And that would be the only real difference between the curve neck engines physically.

The JDM versions have a knife edged intake manifold too (where it meets the throttle body).

I'd look for EGR. No EGR is a good bet. But nonetheless, it's a 2.5L so who cares so long as it's in good condition. Post some pictures of inside the oil cap or take the valve cover off to inspect internal condition. That should be your number 1 priority, not if it has the mythical 10:1 pistons that almost everyone thinks they have but don't

How do these look?

I think I'm mostly just wondering what gasket kit and water pump and fuel filter (and other parts) do I buy for it?

Looks fairly golden there, should be good for many miles IMO!

Water pump and fuel filter get whatever. Honestly, I run without a timing belt cover just to make stuff like that easy. Rockauto.com are a good site to get parts for good prices.

Valve cover gaskets, Mazda for sure. I just sprayed a bit of hylomar on my gaskets and stuck them to VC and that's it. No leaks. Every other gasket I tried leaks, and I used to use permatex black also. Mazda ones are just that much better.

RX8SE3P wrote:190HP is somewhat of an overstatement... There's no way 10:1 pistons opposed to 9.2:1 would make 20HP. And that would be the only real difference between the curve neck engines physically.

The JDM versions have a knife edged intake manifold too (where it meets the throttle body).

I'd look for EGR. No EGR is a good bet. But nonetheless, it's a 2.5L so who cares so long as it's in good condition. Post some pictures of inside the oil cap or take the valve cover off to inspect internal condition. That should be your number 1 priority, not if it has the mythical 10:1 pistons that almost everyone thinks they have but don't

+ ECU

Just dyno them, they all make arround 185 - 195 bhp (they do do here atleast). Besides a DE makes 175+ with custom exhaust system. ECU + Piston could make +15hp.

And there not mythical , there just "common" JDM pistons (KL31 Cams are much rarer) (and the difference is very obivious). I would care if they sell it as JDM engine, and you pay for a JDM engine.

EGR is also a good sign, but KL-68 is J-spec only. (unless some swapped it.)

I've spend a lot time searching for the type of KL I have myself.

If you want to know for sure: A. Take off the Heads. B. get (borrow) an Endoscope and look in de combustion chamber.

I took off the IM so far today in between working on other projects. I might take the heads off if I can squeeze more time out of the day. I'll post pictures tonight when I'm at the house.

Alright... I've got it torn down to the point where I need to remove the cylinder head bolts. This is the picture I took after I removed the IM.



Opinions? Any comments or two cents would be appreciated (a few dollars too )

And one question: Are there methods that make removing the cylinder head bolts easier? I broke three sockets (one expensive one ) trying to get them loose and I wasn't about to keep going and break my other five. Don't ask why I have so many that fit

why are you splitting the heads on such a clean motor? Ild be more concerned with dropping the pan and doing a visual on the #6 rod bearing and if its good call it a day the motor looks nice on the inside. You already know its not the most powerful as your lacking the ZE 31 cams so who really cares about the pistons in it unless your really just want to buy head gaskets. But hey just my .02

I'm pretty sure the timing belt then camshafts need to come off to pull the heads. Might be why you're having issues.

Useful information! I'd say it's worth at least .03. I am replacing just about every gasket possible. And what is a price on kl31 cams? And does anyone know about the colt cams? I know kl01 are best for low end torque while the kl31 have high end torque.* What are the colt cams for?

Ha Ha, funny... I said that is the pic I took after I removed the IM and that I am to the point where I juat have to take out the CHB's. I have everything marked and layed out and my hla's in their cozy oil bath and starting to clean valve covers and IM for painting.

*mazda engineering sourced

ZE cams can be had for around the $200 range, and would be well worth it. In the 2 DEs I had there was a noticable difference in the one with the ZE cams in it. The colts are going to be even more aggressive, all depends what your looking for. And just an fyi you may want to consider replacing the headbolts when you do head gaskets as they are stretch to yield as well, some people will reuse them and measure but you never will get 100% torque on prestretched bolts.

Well, if you're taking the engine apart you might as well get piston rings and bearings for the bottom end. I put a ZE in my car and ended up needing to rebuild it anyways so do it once and do it right or do nothing and see how it goes but definitely don't go halfway IMO! Things I think you can re-use for sure:

Oil pump

Other than that you can arguably re-use many things such as water pump and even belts, but if they fail it's just a prick to do again.

Take note of the pistons and which cylinder they belong in. Make 100% sure you do the same for the cam caps.