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I have read about using candle wax. Heat the bolt than allow the wax to be drawn up the threads. Never tried, but I have heard of people having great luch with it. It's said to clean and lube the threads.

RS_OBD'oh_2 wrote:I have read about using candle wax. Heat the bolt than allow the wax to be drawn up the threads. Never tried, but I have heard of people having great luch with it. It's said to clean and lube the threads.

Not sure what luch is but hey anything's worth a try right.

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You know... the hole in the end is made for a allan-wrench. open end wrench and an allen is supposed to take it off. The torch idea is another good one. When i changed the bars on my rx8 they were rusted on, and i ended up cutting them off and purchased new end links

I hate rust

All you need to do is get a metal mini grinder wheel and use a dremel. Cut right through the nut and bolt.

I've only ever gotten one end link off using the allen key in the end of the stud. They're usually so rusted that it won't hold the key.

Like everyone else...I say get your dremel out and just cut through the stud.

Thanks guys.. I'll have another go at it this weekend.

Ryan wrote:Its like I told you earlier, I'm just ridiculously impatient with machines

LOL this sounds just like me.

I've never been one to even trust jackstands honestly. I ramp my cars, and chock the wheels like no tomorrow. I already dropped one on my ankle doing THAT, so no thank you to jack stands. I can't wait to finish my custom ramps...

Oeeefff.... after spending 3 hours with my dremmel under the car I managed to cut all the bolts ! (well, all... only 2 off the end-links)

Now I've put the swaybar on the car, but when using the regular bolts I started to wonder something.

The hole in the picture is used to put the bolt through.
Other side seems to be able to slide into the chassis.

But when I slide the little lip into the chassis I can't put the bolt through. Is this normal ?

Well it's going to be tight. you slide the part into the chassis and then it will probably still be at an angle (not flush with the bolt hole) but the bolt should be long enough to just get it started and then as you tighten it, it becomes flush...