Pictures of modified Pacesetter headers?

[WhiteFinish]

Is there anybody who modified the rear-pipe ?

I've heared the back y pipe is a restrictor.

[IMACHU2]

I don't think the performance will be effected. The flange where it bolts to the Y-pipe has to be removed or moved a few inches back for clearance. Theoretically you could remove the flange then weld the header directly to the Y-pipe and everything would remain in the same place. Another member has done this already. (On the rear header). That would make for an awkward looking rear header though You could cut up and re-weld the cross member, but that is scary because the front suspension and engine/transmission are attached to the front cross member. Given a choice between loosing .05 HP and death, I choose life

I agree with you that if you were to say cut up one of the primary tubes and modify it, you could loose power, but in this case the tuned part of the header will be unaltered.

[IMACHU2]

Is there anybody who modified the rear-pipe ?

I've heard the back y pipe is a restriction.

On this set, the Y-pipe looks to be well formed and does not look as though it would cause a restriction. I will take a few pics for you.

[Inodoro Pereyra]

You could cut up and re-weld the cross member, but that is scary because the front suspension and engine/transmission are attached to the front cross member. Given a choice between loosing .05 HP and death, I choose life

I never said "cut up the cross member". I said "notch and box". I would never suggest to cut up the structure of the car, especially not knowing your level of experience in the matter. But you said the header is "touching the frame", so I assumed you needed just a few mm extra clearance. If that's the case, notching and boxing would be the best solution. If you need to cut up the structure, I'd sell the headers, and get a set that fits.

[IMACHU2]

Ya only a few MM are needed, To properly cut and box the cross-member it should be removed from the car, I choose slight header modification

[MrMazda92]

If you're taking the time to modify the headers at all, you should do a search on probetalk for custom exhaust work. I've seen some things that made my blood boil, in a good way. There's a lot of power to be gained from a truly well-made exhaust. You can't buy that on ebay though, you need to custom tailor it to your goals. It really is worth doing, especially if you've got other mods coming as well. It's no small part of my own project, for which I have a high mark to hit.

[WhiteFinish]

Yes, I thought i read something about the bend / corner that the rear pipe makes. Because the corner is quiet sharp you'd loose power.

[MrMazda92]

I've already got a creative workaround for that myself... Too bad for you guys I won't be using mass produced headers.

[WhiteFinish]

Share, share, share

[Mooneggs]

yes please document as you build these if you are doing that much research...

[MrMazda92]

yes please document as you build these if you are doing that much research...

Honestly, EVERYTHING I do is documented... I just can't stand posting incomplete projects, so I'll share some of my info when I have results to back it up. Dyno proven results...

[IMACHU2]

Sorted out the exhaust today. The Pacesetter MX-6 headers almost fit. The rear header flange hit the MX-3 Cross member.



Hard to tell from the pic, but the flange is resting on the crossmember.


I cut all the flanges off the Y-pipe.



The hanger did not line up to anthing, so I cut it off too. It did not want to leave LOL




The finished product. Basically the pipe coming from the front header is un-modified except it has been shortened 2". The flange has been cut off the rear header and a 2" I.D exhaust pipe has been welded to the Y-pipe. Now the Y-pipe slips over the rear header and is clamped in place. The front header has the ball and socket collector still. This took care of the clearance problem.



A Magnaflow high flow 2 1/2" cat slides over the end of the Y-pipe and it clamps in place. I welded a flange to the back of the cat. Shortening the Y-pipe and cutting the flange off the end of the Y-pipe allowed the Pacesetter 2 1/4" mandrel bent system to bolt up
un-modified

Note: the flange is crooked on purpose to line up to the exhaust.


The 2" ID pipe I welded to the Y-pipe slips over the header now.


The system all bolted up. There are lots of clamps, but this way everything comes apart easy if in needs to.


The cat in place.


New exhaust hanger slips onto the clamp on the cat.


The mid pipe.


The rice cannon! I had planned on cutting it off or painting it black. I have not had the heart. It is actually a nice T-304 Stainless tip. Thinking it will be hard to see because MX-3's have a shorter rear bumper then 323's. (It will end up a few inches under the 323 rear bumper).



The exhaust is pretty quiet. The car appears to be working very well. The power steering pump is leaking very badly, short of that everything else is really comming togeather. The MX-326GS was blocked in the garage, or I would have taken it for a rip down the street!

[MrMazda92]

Excellent work, as I've come to expect from your posted projects

[IMACHU2]

Thanks! I am a little concerned that there is no flex in the rear header. If it becomes an issue, I will add a flex coupler between the cat and the rest of the exhaust. I started it up, no leaks, rattles or space conflicts at least anyway.

[MrMazda92]

I'd recommend going to a ball and socket type of coupler, it'll let less gas leak out