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cWs306 wrote:

there is only 1 way to put in a distributor and it more or less self times itself.

wrong? lol... the way u time these motor's is to turn the distributor to a certain point.. so no its not self timing, and no there isnt only 1 way to put it in.. lol. love to see how your cars running.

ummm....there is only 1 way and will repeat it again 1 way to put a distributor in a mazda k series. there is a notch that the distributor gear goes into on the camshaft and has 1 large slot and 1 small slot on the distributor gear so you can only install it one way. have you even removed one before?. also btw my car ran a 14 @100 on street tires on a klze with basic bolt ons.

stereoking15 wrote: ummm....there is only 1 way and will repeat it again 1 way to put a distributor in a mazda k series. there is a notch that the distributor gear goes into on the camshaft and has 1 large slot and 1 small slot on the distributor gear so you can only install it one way.

Actually, you're right, but you're still making the wrong point.
The distributor rotor will always point to cyl #1, when the timing marks are aligned. I said before he should check that the rotor was pointing at #1, but that shows nothing. I got confused with older engines that had the distributor geared to the crankshaft, instead of attached to the end of the camshaft. Sorry, my bad.
But it's the CKP that tells the ECU when to inject on a cylinder, so if the disty sends the spark to #1, just after the ECU injected on #4, the spark will have nothing to burn, and the engine won't run.

Inodoro Pereyra wrote:

stereoking15 wrote: ummm....there is only 1 way and will repeat it again 1 way to put a distributor in a mazda k series. there is a notch that the distributor gear goes into on the camshaft and has 1 large slot and 1 small slot on the distributor gear so you can only install it one way.

Actually, you're right, but you're still making the wrong point.
The distributor rotor will always point to cyl #1, when the timing marks are aligned. I said before he should check that the rotor was pointing at #1, but that shows nothing. I got confused with older engines that had the distributor geared to the crankshaft, instead of attached to the end of the camshaft. Sorry, my bad.
But it's the CKP that tells the ECU when to inject on a cylinder, so if the disty sends the spark to #1, just after the ECU injected on #4, the spark will have nothing to burn, and the engine won't run.

What he said!

ohh k sorry, i thought you ment you just line up the notches bolt it on and its ready to roll. i was like uhhh.. thats not right. lots of turning and messing with it and yah i have removed one, installed one. multiple times. lol. just got a little confused cause ive seen people just put them on and not do a thing to them.

ok gotcha no hard feelings just didnt make my point clear enough the first time i guess . I'm still puzzled though on this car even though he has changed everything it still has no vroom vroom.

Ok, Creech (and everybody else), I need to apologize. The information I've been giving you guys here is...wrong.
There's a member on PT with the same problem, who just got me thinking, and made me realize I keep getting confused with old style, pushrod engines.

Creech: I think your problem is the same one that drove me crazy on my MX-6 for almost a week, until I finally found about it by pure coincidence: check that your crankshaft key is in place.
That key tends to fall off the crankshaft when you install the sprocket, allowing it to spin kinda freely, and getting your timing out of whack, even when everything seems ok.

Sorry again. I hope I didn't make you waste your time, fixing a problem that isn't there.

stereoking15 wrote:ok gotcha no hard feelings just didnt make my point clear enough the first time i guess . I'm still puzzled though on this car even though he has changed everything it still has no Zoom Zoom.

Fixed ;D

It's all good. I am willing to double and tripple check anything at this point. I am beyond frustrated.

ccreech wrote:It's all good. I am willing to double and tripple check anything at this point. I am beyond frustrated.

Have you tried my suggestion? :/ Floor the throttle 2 seconds before you crank her over, then ease up the moment it starts(if it does, obviously...)

mr.mazda i dont think that would solve it.. all that does is cause a massive amount of air flow into the motor for when its flooded. i dont think his motor flooded while in mid drive.. i personally think its a sensor of some sort. or something cooked it self. check all wires, ground points, see if the disty rotor cooked/ate it self(had one disintegrate inside the cap on my ZE). car just shut off and would not fire at all but it would try..

It might not, but it couldn't hurt I experienced more than half of these symptoms and this allowed me to drive the car. It happened again this morning TBH, and the same thing started it up immediately. It couldn't hurt to try it at least, right?

yah that's true. wouldnt hurt anything. im more towards the distributor or a sensor... crank angle sensor... reads right but isnt sending the right reading.. im so confused off of this..

You'll figure it out guys. ;D We're all putting our heads together anyway, eh? We can't all be wrong forever

Did you ever figure this out???

Did you ever recheck all your timing marks with actual TDC #1 by using a long screw driver or something down the spark plug hole??? Also making sure the rotor was pointing to #1 plug wire on the cap??

I just recently had a honda in the shop that was a no start... The guy who did the valve adjustment screwed up when turning the motor.. He skipped the timing belt... The cams were aligned but the crank was out 2 teeth...

It caused no check engine light, had spark, injector pulse and good compression... Reset the timing and it fired up no problem...