MX-3.com

carizle wrote:

jcallaway86 wrote:Disregarding the flamer....

I love when n00bs get mad and try to argue with someone that has built an AWD MX-3. Freakin AWD! Not that I'm not a n00b myself Jeez show some respect at least. Anyway, I wouldn't even touch an rs 4 knocker without the intentions of swapping a b6t, bpt or whatever other appropriate swap; my K8 is slow enough as it is.

HAHAHA

Over the coarse of 9 years i have probably blown 20K on my car with all the different swaps and mods doing all the work myself, alot of trial and error. i know first hand from countless hours of researching. And i dont know it all by any means, but what i do know is B6 and BP blocks.

If you want NA power out of your B6 i strongly recommend sourcing a mid 80's SOHC 8 valve head, still would have to block the oil ports but this SOHC 2 valve per cylinder head flows more air than its 4 valve cousins. And would sound amazing, this would be the head to put ITB's on. I have dreamt of doing a miata build with this setup but alas... it is but a dream.

Josh wrote:Is the B6DE strong, Yes; Is is reliable, Yes; Can it make good reliable power, Yes. Intake, exhaust, eliminating pullys all things that will give small increases to this motor, But cost effectiveness wise it is cheaper and more beneficial to install a 1.8L BP it is the better bang for the buck, you will spend less and get more. My b6de on 6 psi of boost did 14.1 in the 1/4 mile. it was quick for my junkyard turbo kit and built motor. Really the weakest part about the B6DE is really the F25 gearbox.

its about preference, any car can turn out hp when tuned right but adding a bulky pos(not to say a bp is) doesnt mean comfort. my b6 has so much room in the engine bay i feel like im working on a 60s or 70s model car whereas a k series engine has about as much room as bill Clinton a--hole while he was impeached.

back to the point, you have some good options above but yes, bp is best bang for buck but if youre a car newb or are lazyish get a cai, underdrivepullys, nix ac/ps and new exhaust.

Josh wrote: If you want NA power out of your B6 i strongly recommend sourcing a mid 80's SOHC 8 valve head, still would have to block the oil ports but this SOHC 2 valve per cylinder head flows more air than its 4 valve cousins. And would sound amazing, this would be the head to put ITB's on. I have dreamt of doing a miata build with this setup but alas... it is but a dream.

ok first if its a 95 its a b6 dohc not sohc
second, the b6 sohc 16v should flow more air than the 8v......

4gotn wrote:

Josh wrote:Is the B6DE strong, Yes; Is is reliable, Yes; Can it make good reliable power, Yes. Intake, exhaust, eliminating pullys all things that will give small increases to this motor, But cost effectiveness wise it is cheaper and more beneficial to install a 1.8L BP it is the better bang for the buck, you will spend less and get more. My b6de on 6 psi of boost did 14.1 in the 1/4 mile. it was quick for my junkyard turbo kit and built motor. Really the weakest part about the B6DE is really the F25 gearbox.

its about preference, any car can turn out hp when tuned right but adding a bulky pos(not to say a bp is) doesnt mean comfort. my b6 has so much room in the engine bay i feel like im working on a 60s or 70s model car whereas a k series engine has about as much room as bill Clinton a--hole while he was impeached.

back to the point, you have some good options above but yes, bp is best bang for buck but if youre a car newb or are lazyish get a cai, underdrivepullys, nix ac/ps and new exhaust.

Josh wrote: If you want NA power out of your B6 i strongly recommend sourcing a mid 80's SOHC 8 valve head, still would have to block the oil ports but this SOHC 2 valve per cylinder head flows more air than its 4 valve cousins. And would sound amazing, this would be the head to put ITB's on. I have dreamt of doing a miata build with this setup but alas... it is but a dream.

ok first if its a 95 its a b6 dohc not sohc
second, the b6 sohc 16v should flow more air than the 8v......

^^^
That’s whats so beautiful about it. the Valves are so big that it flows better than the 4 valve heads.

and be careful when using under drive crank pulley on a B6, they use a short nub crank and they are extremely susceptible to crank wobble and it will tear out your bearings. Especially if your running one on a boosted motor, NA is a little easier on it.

UDP's are a bad idea on all motors. Balanced or not. Its a harmonic thing. Cranks are VERY dense and very heavy, and very oddly shaped. They vibrate and resonate strongly because of lash caused by clearances and explosions, which puts retarded amounts of stress on stuff. That little lame rubber ring with steel on the other side does wonders to stop that effect.

Its the difference between hitting a gong, and hitting a gong covered in undercoat.

Oh, regarding n00b comments, i've been a member since 2004, just lost my account because i forgot the login name. it's been a while since I had a reason to post. I'll actually be owning my 4th mx3 very soon, and btw if you've put 20k in your car and still complaining then you're doing something wrong.

Also, crank horsepower increases translate to the wheel, usually minus 15% for most FWD 5SPD transmissions. Automatics usually eat more, I've heard numbers of 20-30% but can't verify. Yes the transmission is the weak link, but the gear ratios are better than the protege transmission. The best transmission to find is the original 5spd from the MX-3 GS, though i'm not sure if the bell housings are the same. the reason is because the final drive ratio is much better than the proteges... Don't believe me, check out club protege they had a sticky on it somewhere a while ago.

Back to the OP topic, what I said still seems to be his best course of action.

jcallaway86 wrote:Oh, regarding n00b comments, i've been a member since 2004, just lost my account because i forgot the login name. it's been a while since I had a reason to post. I'll actually be owning my 4th mx3 very soon, and btw if you've put 20k in your car and still complaining then you're doing something wrong.

Where's my money

jcallaway86 wrote:Oh, regarding n00b comments, i've been a member since 2004, just lost my account because i forgot the login name. it's been a while since I had a reason to post. I'll actually be owning my 4th mx3 very soon, and btw if you've put 20k in your car and still complaining then you're doing something wrong.

Also, crank horsepower increases translate to the wheel, usually minus 15% for most FWD 5SPD transmissions. Automatics usually eat more, I've heard numbers of 20-30% but can't verify. Yes the transmission is the weak link, but the gear ratios are better than the protege transmission. The best transmission to find is the original 5spd from the MX-3 GS, though i'm not sure if the bell housings are the same. the reason is because the final drive ratio is much better than the proteges... Don't believe me, check out club protege they had a sticky on it somewhere a while ago.

Back to the OP topic, what I said still seems to be his best course of action.

I was going to give you a detailed response, but really.
Use the"SEARCH" function its at the top of your page.
Here is the URL in case you cant find it http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/search.php you might want to try ClubProtege, FordLazergoup, and google,. a Chiltons manual will help too.

Its gettin pretty hostile in here.

jcallaway86 wrote:The best transmission to find is the original 5spd from the MX-3 GS, though i'm not sure if the bell housings are the same. the reason is because the final drive ratio is much better than the proteges...

You can't use a V6 trans on a 4cyl. What would be typically refered to as using the stronger G-series trans. They were available for both the V6 and 4cyls, and with that, you can swap the internal gears, but the trans themselves are not swappable.

Cars with 4.39 final drive:
-92-96 MX-3 GS with 1.8 V6
-93-97 Ford Probe GT

Cars with 4.11 Final drive:
-90-94 Mazda Protege LX (1.8 dohc)
-95 Protege ES
-93-97 Mazda 626 and MX-6 (both 4cyl and 6cyl
-98-02 Mazda 626 (all models)
-01-03.5 Protege (all with 2.0 engines)
-91-94 Mercury Capri (all) note, these all have a cable operated clutch (which doesn't really matter if ur just taking the gears)
-91-96 Ford Escort GT or LX-E (with 1.8 dohc)
-91-96 Mercury Tracer LTS (with 1.8 dohc)
-97-Present Ford Escort & ZX2 (ALL MODELS, either 2.0 SPI or Zetec...all have a G-series gear box)