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hmm well to burn out a rectifier you would need to get the alternator pretty hot meaning a damn high draw but if the rear defrost fuse did not blow then you know its not that at fault. I will do a current draw test on mine for you tomorrow see what the draw is at idle with all accessories off including my deck then with the rear defrost on so you have a baseline. My gut tells me that it was a crap alternator though as I have had them do some pretty weird crap over the years, i think the worse was when the voltage regulator went in and out on one kicking out as much as 30 volts dc then back to 12 volts. It cooked the alternator and if memory serves that was a champion reman.

I would appreciate having some numbers to compare.

Thanks.

ok so at idle when warmed up and with all lighting, sound system etc off I had 1.9 amps constant, with defrost on it spiked at 10 amps draw then dropped slowly down to 3 or so. With sound on all lights etc I was around 14 amps.

How are you measuring the current? Are you sure you're measuing DC and not AC?

I am using this amp clamp set to DC Amps... http://www.myflukestore.com/p1252/fluke_337.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

...and my values are astronomically higher than yours. with no accesories except running lights I was getting 39.5A and with the defroster on I was getting 59A. These numbers made sense to me as it's a 90A alternator I expect it to be working at 50-60% of its capacity.

dc amp clamp on the positive cable to the battery I will double check for you tomorrow after work to make sure that my numbers are accurate.

I'm using the output wire of the alternator. I'll try it your way and see what I get.

I can that one as well for you that way we both have a comparison to work from.

I have been stupid busy the last few days I will post for you as soon as I can get some readings.

Well I've been driving with the replacement alternator for a few days now and there have been no issues. I unwrapped the harness and cleaned everything up...rewrapped it and replaced the eyelet that bolts to the alternator B terminal as well as replacing the defroster relay and it seems to be good. There was a bit of corrosion on the old eyelet and I'm thinking that may have been causing the high resistance that was killing the alternator.

The defroster works better and I haven't smelled the telltale burning smell since I soldered on the new eyelet.

I think I may be ok. Thanks for you help.