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my gauge does work. i have the other sensor out.
so my fans run fulltime

yeah thats the problem with the 2 wire ect sensor out the ecm goes into default and that throws off air/fuel mix, fans etc. I would definately put the 2 wire in by drilling/tapping the hole for it if I were you.

ok so while ur at it i got 2 more questions.
could i just swap the sensor out so it plugs into the one for the ecu. just as a temporary
and i deleted the egr. am i gonna throw codes.
ive been told i am.
and will that put the ecu into protect?

you will throw egr codes with the delete unless the ecu is chipped, you can swap the sensors and plug the 2 wire in but you will lose the dash gauge if you do so. egr codes will not really throw it into protect mode but it will knock you down a little bit to prevent damage to the engine, if you still want the performance hook the egr back up but put a plate over the egr valve so that no egr gas can get into the intake. That way you fool the ecu and you still get the egr delete.

sweetness.
im gonna swap the gauge sensor 2nite. but in a few days ill have the hold drilled and tapped.
i think my ecu is chipped sense it has a sticker on it that says something on it that makes me think that.
ill put up what it says l8r.
so ill just leave the egr unhooked.
thanks for da help

ok so i just tried to put the sensor where the gauge sensor should go.
and the hole is smaller and the threads are different.

now this is the sensor that goes where the hole has yet to be drilled.

i plugged it in and started the car and my check engine light went off for a sec when i started the car.
my car currently isnt running in protect. ( i know this from unplugging the sensor that i have in.)
but my cheak engine is on. and my fans run fulltime.
is there a place i could just put that sensor in that will last for a few days till i can drill the hole?

well the only place I can think of short of the proper place is the coolant overflow bottle, but it will not give you any kind of an accurate reading from that, I would just leave it unplugged for now if I were you until you drill and tap the hole.

alright. well i finally got some time in a shop today. and tomorrow. so ill drill it tomorrow.

Mine sits on the pin and doesn't move at all until my engine is completely warmed up. When it finally gets up there, it's almost dead center.

MrMazda92 wrote:Mine sits on the pin and doesn't move at all until my engine is completely warmed up. When it finally gets up there, it's almost dead center.

The fuel and temperature needles don't have pins...

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:

MrMazda92 wrote:Mine sits on the pin and doesn't move at all until my engine is completely warmed up. When it finally gets up there, it's almost dead center.

The fuel and temperature needles don't have pins...

I know I meant it sits at the minimum, I said that out of habit. sorry! ;(

Having a problem with it currently and I believe i got it worked out, start the car cold and position with its nose higher than the back. (puts the rad above the heater core) then take the rad cap off and waited till it stopped bubbling air out. The problem seems to have gone away only time will tell.

My temp gauge usually sits the needles width over halfway.
1994 MX-3 Precidia GS. (FIRST CAR<<)

yeah still sitting a bit over half... all the time. No problems yet.

well besides the radiator getting a rock to hit it and leaked all th coolant ouit..... and then at the same time the alterntor took a dump