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Re: Defrost/Defog getting dangerous

Posted: April 11th, 2010, 12:03 pm
by Mx3TD
anyone else's rear defog button not working?

Re: Defrost/Defog getting dangerous

Posted: April 11th, 2010, 12:41 pm
by Ryan
Yes. Most of us who use it.

Look under the dash, over where your clutch pedal is, and look for a burned relay.

Re: Defrost/Defog getting dangerous

Posted: April 12th, 2010, 6:28 pm
by Mx3TD
thanks man, will that help the button not sticking in? or just the defrost problem, cause if i push it in, it just pops back out.

Re: Defrost/Defog getting dangerous

Posted: April 12th, 2010, 7:31 pm
by Ryan
thats not a problem, thats how its designed. The little light should come on, but you can replace that, IIRC. Its on an auto-time out, so you don't leave it on for an 8 hour drive and burn stuff out.

Re: Defrost/Defog getting dangerous

Posted: April 13th, 2010, 11:49 pm
by fowljesse
In the mean time, get some dessicant made for damp places, like DampRid™
It'll keep your car dry, so nothing will be there to fog it up. That is what I do, and I live in the land of damp. It also keeps my car from getting musty.

Re: Defrost/Defog getting dangerous

Posted: April 14th, 2010, 12:55 am
by wytbishop
Most modern cars are designed now to run the air conditioning when defrosting to help solve this problem. In my 07' 3, when I go to full defog the air conditioning condenser starts to work. True story.

I have also determined that my rear defog had a short and when I ran it it caused my battery to overcharge. It killed my alternator last month. So you'd best replace that relay as it can cause other issues.

Re: Defrost/Defog getting dangerous

Posted: April 14th, 2010, 6:18 pm
by Mx3TD
ahhhh. alright, haha. i'll hurry,.

while im getting help....

installing new piston rings. anyone know how?

Re: Defrost/Defog getting dangerous

Posted: April 14th, 2010, 6:37 pm
by Mi|<E
If you havent measured your end gap and have no idea what
im talking about when I say they need to be gapped dependant on
the application it is better to have a machine shop take care of
this for you.

Your cylinders needs to be honed to break the existing glaze or your
newly ringed pistons will not seat properly. The rings themselves
need to be measured in the cylinder after is has been honed and
gapped to appropriate specs. They gap these usually one piston
depth into the cylinder, not at the top, at the middle.

Again, if any of this is 'wtf omg ?' or similar save the headache
and take it to a good shop. This is a very basic explanation of
what needs to be done.