MX-3.com

Inodoro Pereyra wrote:People has to understand engineers are not stupid, and they actually STUDIED, before starting to design engines.
The manuals for both the K8 and the KL specifically say (page 7-16) to use 10W30 for ANY TEMPERATURE over -25°C (about -10°F) approx., or (there's an overlap), 5W30 for any temperature under 0°C (32°F) approx.
That means, if you live in HELL, you need to use 10W30, but keep some 5W30 at hand, just in case it freezes over.

What gives the oil its lubricating capacity is not its viscosity, but its film strength. Using a higher viscosity oil than recommended will achieve 2 things:

1. It will starve the top of the engine of oil during cold start ups, as the oil pump has a harder time pushing thicker oil.

2. It will slightly hurt your gas mileage, as the oil pump takes more power from
the engine.

On a high mileage engine, it's a must to start using synthetic oil, not because it's thicker, but because it has higher film strength than conventional oil, and it's more consistent (because while with conventional oil you're limited to what the crude you're distilling can give you in terms of chemical makeup, synthetic oil is engineered to reach a given specification). On very high mileage engines, it may be advisable to use a good quality oil additive (Lucas is OK, but I prefer better stuff, like Z-Max, ProLong or Slick50), to give the oil a boost in lubricity and film strength.

Dude. I had a corolla GTS 1987 with a 3rd gen 4AGE swap. It had about 180,000km on it all hard km but didnt burn a drop or blow blue. I did the synthetic thing and in a month, i was 1.5L low after driving easy. I also had some blue at startup. Basicly, you have to be super weary of synthetic in high mileage engine. Your probably right about your facts in syntheic in highmileage engine but wrong in reality as to its consequences. Its cleaned up the engine way too much in my case. I sold it and got an MX-3

First of all, I've yet to see an MX-3 manual that recommends 10W-40. It was also written over a decade ago and recommends SG quality oil, we are on SM now. It is ALSO written for average Joes, and yes 10W-30 will be fine but you should know better than that and know that 5W-30 will be even better. Second, it doesn't matter where you or I live. No climate in the WORLD is hot enough as a fully warmed up engine (that is designed to run with 30 weight at that temperature). And even if by some twist of fate it DOES get hotter guess what happens? You rad fan turns on the cools down the coolant which in turn cools down the engine to bring it back to proper temp. So you see how you're killing your engine by using 40?

And other guy. Sure 15W-40 probably worked for you because it sounds like your car was eating oil faster than fuel. No brainer. The proper thing to do would be to rebuild the engine as clearly something is up. That's why it seemed better with the 15W-40 but in fact the small moving parts of the engine were getting starved because the oil would never thin out enough to provide proper lubrication. Again, prove me wrong by hooking up an oil temp & pressure gauge. I GUARANTEE you that your oil pressure will be WAY TOO HIGH running 15W-40.

Oh and just to add on since it seems like the oil knowledge on here is next to nil:
0W-30
5W-30
10W-30
They're all the same viscosity at operating temperature so I'm not sure why you'd think 0W and 5W are too thin in warm temperatures.

mikeetown wrote: Dude. I had a corolla GTS 1987 with a 3rd gen 4AGE swap. It had about 180,000km on it all hard km but didnt burn a drop or blow blue. I did the synthetic thing and in a month, i was 1.5L low after driving easy. I also had some blue at startup. Basicly, you have to be super weary of synthetic in high mileage engine. Your probably right about your facts in syntheic in highmileage engine but wrong in reality as to its consequences. Its cleaned up the engine way too much in my case. I sold it and got an MX-3

That proves nothing. What you had was an engine hat was already busted, but the crud inside kept it running.
I had a '91 Protege I bought with 88k miles. I used synthetic and ProLong since the day I bought it, made 70k miles the first year, and junked it 3 years later, with 175k on the odometer. It NEVER burned or leaked a drop of oil. I still have the B8 engine and tranny, and the engine, after 175k miles, still has all the tolerances within factory specs.

I also have a friend who bought a '90 Acura Legend, with 260000 miles. As per my advise, he's also using synthetic, and the engine runs like new. As of today, the car has little more than 280k miles.

I need to get some popcorn, someones gonna cry soon I think.

solo_ryder wrote:I need to get some popcorn, someones gonna cry soon I think.

Lol, you just troll now eh?

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:

solo_ryder wrote:I need to get some popcorn, someones gonna cry soon I think.

Lol, you just troll now eh?

Pretty much yeah

mikeetown wrote:

MrMazda92 wrote:Revived your own thread?

Just playing, updates are good!

I ran Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w30 for almost a year, and had no complaints at all! I recently swapped to 5w30 and have had a HUGE increase in noise level at startup, although it's fine after she warms up a bit. My preference would be the 10w30, I'll be swapping back to it in another 3k miles.

You know, I find it noisy with 10w-30 still. I'm definitely taking your word for it dude. what do you think of castrol 5w-40 syn?

I did have some noise with the 10w30, it's just a LOT louder now. I haven't used their 5w40, but I should have mentioned I'm using their full synthetic 5w30 right now(thought I'd try a different brand). I haven't tested any other brands or weights in my MX-3 yet, but if something catches my eye I'll post it here!

There's a big post regarding peoples experiences with different oils/synthetics but I'm too lazy to find it. Multi viscosity oil is meant to maintain a certain viscosity regardless of temperature within the range it was designed to operate, within reason so. I go out a 50 below 0 and my oil looks like slush why, because it's viscosity rating isn't low enough for the temperature. On a real hot day say 125° in Texas, in November I'd probably need a 10w40 weight.
Inodoro, you mentioned, Z-Max, ProLong or Slick50 which by I think are all crap. You never mentioned Duralube. The only way to really know if these additives are working is to take oil samples from your engine and have them analyzed for wear metal concentrations. See if the wear trends were reduced after using the products. The companies never seem to show that data. I did test Duralube on a calibrated spectral oil analyzer and it did reduce metal concentrations in every test sample I took with in a some what hap hazard controlled environment.

mitmaks wrote:been always running 10w30 in my mx3

I just realized you have a Charger and an MX-3...

I am jealous, I want a 70

mikeetown wrote: Dude. I had a corolla GTS 1987 with a 3rd gen 4AGE swap. It had about 180,000km on it all hard km but didnt burn a drop or blow blue. I did the synthetic thing and in a month, i was 1.5L low after driving easy. I also had some blue at startup. Basicly, you have to be super weary of synthetic in high mileage engine. Your probably right about your facts in syntheic in highmileage engine but wrong in reality as to its consequences. Its cleaned up the engine way too much in my case. I sold it and got an MX-3

Sounds to me like you owe Synthetic Oil big time!

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_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:First of all, I've yet to see an MX-3 manual that recommends 10W-40. It was also written over a decade ago and recommends SG quality oil, we are on SM now. It is ALSO written for average Joes, and yes 10W-30 will be fine but you should know better than that and know that 5W-30 will be even better. Second, it doesn't matter where you or I live. No climate in the WORLD is hot enough as a fully warmed up engine (that is designed to run with 30 weight at that temperature). And even if by some twist of fate it DOES get hotter guess what happens? You rad fan turns on the cools down the coolant which in turn cools down the engine to bring it back to proper temp. So you see how you're killing your engine by using 40?

And other guy. Sure 15W-40 probably worked for you because it sounds like your car was eating oil faster than fuel. No brainer. The proper thing to do would be to rebuild the engine as clearly something is up. That's why it seemed better with the 15W-40 but in fact the small moving parts of the engine were getting starved because the oil would never thin out enough to provide proper lubrication. Again, prove me wrong by hooking up an oil temp & pressure gauge. I GUARANTEE you that your oil pressure will be WAY TOO HIGH running 15W-40.

Oh and just to add on since it seems like the oil knowledge on here is next to nil:
0W-30
5W-30
10W-30
They're all the same viscosity at operating temperature so I'm not sure why you'd think 0W and 5W are too thin in warm temperatures.

1st Blue Selection,
He said 10w30, you probably read their 2 posts one after the other so that was a mixup.

2nd Blue Selection,
It wasn't specified later on in the thread, but earlier on we mentioned start-up temps. Which ties into climate, which was discussed...

mitmaks wrote:http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/EngineP ... -chart.gif

Why are you posting this here? It's from a BMW F650 bike site.

You know, all this stuff about oil, I have based on experience and reading stuff like the oil bible online. Also, everyone from my dads generation (who is 78) that is a mechanic are the ones that educated me. If you would like to call them dumb go ahead, but you cant beat cold hard experience in my opinion and probably a lot of others opinion as well

basically i was taught, high revving needs a bit thicker oil or you;ll wear out small moving parts by starving it for oil when its moving so fast for prolonged periods of time.

Since multi grade oil uses polymers which aren't lubricants to change viscosity, 5w-30 IS thinner than 10w-30 all the time. Pick up a chem text at your local college and you can read about it in organic chemistry 212 anytime(212 being a universal equivalent course on polymers and polymer design). The multi grade on the bottle is THEORETICALLY close. 10w-30 has less polymers and is going to be a bit thicker all the time at operating temperature.

Does anyone agree that if you push your mx-3 to 7000rpm a lot in 30-40 degree Celsius weather as much as i know i was, that 5w-30 probably wont do the job? Because, I definitely think so. I wasn't doing the average joe thing the manual advises about. I definitely was up around 5000+ rpm in 2nd gear, shifting to 3rd, for a good 60 km, a good 70% of the time, for 4 months this last summer with my friends. The 15w-40 was shot after 3000km cause it burned off like crazy when it lost its viscosity film
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I would drive the road in this link which is super windy every couple days in about 25 - 30 mins. People in kelowna should damn well try it out!!!!!!! ITS WICKED WINDY!!! If i wasnt doing this, I would use 10w-30 all the time regardless of the high mileage engine. This road and driving it, is why i started this thread.

This only applies to regular oil though. Synthetic is amazing.

I think if you can find your own way to take care of your car and it works, great.

mikeetown wrote:What oil do you reccomend i run in a k8 with 257,000 km. I say 10w 40 would do it. But i like to race a lot so i was wondering if i should and can run 15w40 dual purpose motor oil. I dont know.
what do u guys do.??

I wrote this before I took organic chemistry and since have seen many engine with different oil grades run for various reasons.

-20w-50, daily driver in summer for blueprinted 350 small block in my neighbors chevelle.
10w-40 syn in my buddies 400 whp s15 cause of 8000rpm revving at drift day comps in penticton.
-team purple, a high end drift team with an FC3S, uses 10w-40 dino for drifting (never use syn in rotary). The subaru legacy uses 10w-40 as well for drifting but both use 10w-30 when not at a comp.
-15w-40 for my friends rebuilt 4G63 turbo talon cause everyone recommended it for the turbo 4G63 stroker.

Night SHade, I cant see these people using 5w-30 in the summer when they are racing these cars. It only makes sense to go thicker in prolonged revving applications where you pummel your engine.