MX-3.com

Yeah I got the 2 sensors for a 92, one w/ the female end and one with the male end, if one of them isn't the right one, well I only wasted $15-20.

The ECU sensor is the green one, that's the one you need. And I just looked up part numbers and they're the same for all north american K8's and KL's.

Ok, I popped my hood today and there are 3 things, I only ordered 2. The one I didn't order IS the GREEN one.

So I ordered this:

And this


This one looks green:
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I'm confused now...

Nah, that one's black. I think it's like this:

ECU uses green (on RockAuto they look grey, so maybe they could be grey) sensor to determine when to turn the fans on.
ECU uses the black sensor to determine when to turn the fans off.
ECU doesn't use the small single wire sensor - that one goes to your dash temperature gauge.

I am curious too how my car will perform... I'm planning on bringing my probinator and a kl36 ecu and do separate dyno runs on saturday to see if there is a difference.

Why doesn't someone use a KL02 VAF and a MX6 ECU that is correct for their year of car. Then get a dyno on that and see the A/F ratios.

Whisper wrote:Nah, that one's black. I think it's like this:

ECU uses green (on RockAuto they look grey, so maybe they could be grey) sensor to determine when to turn the fans on.
ECU uses the black sensor to determine when to turn the fans off.
ECU doesn't use the small single wire sensor - that one goes to your dash temperature gauge.

I know for a fact that the green one is used to determine the AFR at the very least, maybe it also does something with the timing too. The black one is for just the fan, that's why your fan runs full speed when it's unplugged. You are right about the single wire sensor though.

And doesn't the KL02 VAF lean out the AFR compared to the JE50? So maybe using that with a KL31 or probinator will help.

I was just investigating my temp senders/sensors tonight. I installed my k8 coolant neck as I thought I needed the extra sensor, turns out I didn't. Tonight I thought maybe the k8 sensor differs from the ZE, and they do. Different numbers on the collar and different colour. Not sure yet if it will make any difference, torrential rain ceased play/traction.

How do I distinguish between the two parts? I may just hafta go to napa after my ones from rockauto come in...or maybe I should just screw it and order megasquirt lol...I just promised myself I wouldn't start any new projects until I have everything else done, since it's all 1/2way...sigh.

The parts I put up? The left one is KL, right is K8. But to be honest I've no idea if it makes a difference. Yet...

GO ON! GET MEGASQUIRT THEN TELL ME HOW TO FIX MINE ; )

Yeah but those part #'s only help me if I go to mazda, which will cost an arm and a leg!

Ahh I could measure resistance of each one at a given temperature. Though I'm still not sure if it's of any consequence yet, and it's midnight so I can't do it now. Surely the part listed for KLs will be right. There's also the possibility that one of mine is OEM and the other is a replacement.

marcdh wrote:Ahh I could measure resistance of each one at a given temperature. Though I'm still not sure if it's of any consequence yet, and it's midnight so I can't do it now. Surely the part listed for KLs will be right. There's also the possibility that one of mine is OEM and the other is a replacement.

That's probably the case, I looked them up for the mx6 and mx3 on a parts website and they were the same part number.

RX8SE3P wrote:Why doesn't someone use a KL02 VAF and a MX6 ECU that is correct for their year of car. Then get a dyno on that and see the A/F ratios.

I might try that, if I can find those parts for cheap somewhere... Purchasing those for a single test seems a bit unreasonable.

Whisper wrote:

RX8SE3P wrote:Why doesn't someone use a KL02 VAF and a MX6 ECU that is correct for their year of car. Then get a dyno on that and see the A/F ratios.

I might try that, if I can find those parts for cheap somewhere... Purchasing those for a single test seems a bit unreasonable.

I used my KL02 from the MX6 on my MX3 and used a spare MX6 ECU. I never got to dyno and now the engine is coming out soon. But I felt no power difference up high, if anything it felt smoother and a little more powerful up high than it did down low.


As for the talk about coolant sensors causing bad air fuel ratios, I don't know about that. Many people are running genuine KL31 ECUs and have 1993 ZE engines with the correct coolant sensors and they still run rich.

BUT if someone were able to dyno a JE50+KL31 then change to a MX6 ECU and KL02 that would be interesting to see the A/F ratio differences. If there is a big one, there is a problem with the KL31 ECU setup somehow.

Perhaps this is why heaps of people claim big gains by using megasquirt. Maybe they get the A/F ratio going good and not so rich. They shouldn't get a massive difference in power on a N/A 2.5 engine just from changing to MS. Some claim 20-30HP gains which is excessive IMO for a small N/A engine.