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Dyno run went ok. The whooshing in fact is the wastegate opening up too abruptly. I've already ordered a bigger spring for the wastegate (9psi).

I wasnt able to go over 4k RPM and it was putting to the wheels 170 WHP. Not bad for half way through the powerband. If i extrapolate the curve, at 7k RPM, I can easily produce over well over 200+ WHP at 4psi.

I've also had to order an oil cooler kit. Who would have known it was so important! lol Sounds like I cooked one of the HLA's

http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae22 ... =Pass1.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae22 ... =Pass2.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae22 ... t=HLAs.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Wow, awesome colour and impressive engine! Hope to get at least a kl-ze someday too, but for now im stuck with my K8-ze..

Upon more GURU involvement, it appears its a spun bearing.... BOOHOO

I'm sourcing out a couple of engines in case i blow another one, i'll have one to swap in.

So.... that puts me at 2,3,4th & 5th engine! This is getting expensive... Anyone have a money maker? I could shake mine but i don't think it will yield enough...

more updates to come. I'm checking the oil for metal shavings ( should tell me if indded its a spun bearing) and compression...

Stay tuned!

Hey ocar, where can I get that SAME EXACT intercooler set up with pipes?


ever tought of doing a bb on those pipes?

hgallegos915 wrote:Hey ocar, where can I get that SAME EXACT intercooler set up with pipes?


ever tought of doing a bb on those pipes?

You can't because its custom and no, I won't do a BB on the pipes.

LIST OF NEW GOODIES:

1-complete ZE w/ 31 cams
1-complete DE
MX-3 Manuals
Engine hoist
Engine Stand
Hydraulic Jack

Here comes the franken-3

So its been a few weeks and I've finally been able to pull out the old motor, swap over the good parts and drop in the new ZE with KL31 cams!!




I took advantage of the opportunity and:

-filled all 4 engine mounts with 3M window weld
-removed the AC pump
-removed EGR valve and plugged th hole in the stock log
-coated Xmember with ruberized asphalt














I couldn't believe the size of the piece i found in the oil pan from the last motor. Looks like I broke a connecting rod.
I'll be keeping it as a memento.




I also noticed the assembly by the thermostat on the new motor did not have the feeds for the coolant going to the TB. Since im squirting, i don't need this function and decided to keep it as clean as possible.

A whole 3 grams! lol



I going to rip the old one apart and take the con rod as a souvenir.

Alrgiht! There she goes!







I jumped the starter before bolting anything down, to make sure that the motor at this point turns over.

Sa far so good.

looks awesome...

hey how come its numbered? its not the firing order right? because if it is it looks wrong.. ?

also.. how did you you get that spun bearing ? over boosted? Im untunned at 7psi and im good so far.. ? was it just a luck thing?
and those pipes look like they can defenetly hold more than 7 psi.

Dilema, dilema...

Some of you already know that I threw another rod, literally days after installing the new ZE. It goes without saying, I was very dissapointed after all the hours spent on it last summer.

Well, the days are getting nicer and most importantly, longerrrrr...

I've been compiling some parts over the winter:

Slim line fans
Clevite main and rod bearings
Sub
Spare motors ...lol

Here is my dilema. We all know the ZE runs a higher compression than the DE. From what I've read, you can get more power from DE at 10 psi than a ZE at 8psi.

What do I do. Repair the ZE or just drop in the DE in its place?

I'm just trying the avoid another rod going. I wasn't running much boost at all; maybe 5-6 psi on bth ZE's and they both ahd the same result.

Anyone have any ideas what else could be the culprit? I see so many guys running stock internals on boosted apps, so i question if my MSQ is the problem? I did have a few passes on the Dyno and it appeared to be fine other than the WG opening up too soon.

ZE or DE?

des are much cheaper and easier to find. you could go threw 3 of them for the price of a ze lol. id personally have given up after the 2nd motor. you must have lots of cash to blow eh

mikeinaus wrote:des are much cheaper and easier to find. you could go threw 3 of them for the price of a ze lol. id personally have given up after the 2nd motor. you must have lots of cash to blow eh

No money tree yet, but why quit to start something else? I've had the mx-3 from when it was bone stock.
It would be quite a shame to quit now when its so close to my goal of 250 whp.

from what ive herd des handle boost alot better then ze's. if you want any kind of reliability just take the safe route and go with a de. if you dont mind about spending cash you can do internal mods on the de to give it more output.

ask fowljesse what hes done, he posted this.

Re: 5.0L Stang engine in MX-6??
Yeah, it would be easier to cut the bottom out of the MX-3, and weld it onto V8 rwd car with a similar wheelbase
However, if you really want a challenge, build a N/A DE for power as I'm doing. I've got a jump on you, but if you have a budget, you might catch up, but be warned, I use VooDoo!
Next time I get to a dyno, I should be in the 210-230whp range. I'm actually going for the highest HP N/A KL ever (with VRIS intact). You can get more N/A power from a DE than you can a ZE, because there's more thickness everywhere to port out, and has a more reliable valve train.

I would build a motor before I ever turbo'd it. ZE or DE, they are all going to be old at this point. If it is "low mileage" it has been sitting for a while anyway. The DE has a slightly stronger valvetrain and the ZE has more comression which is not really boost friendly. If I were to jut boost a KL I would boost a DE, but if I had some money to burn on a build I would run a higher compression motor and fuel it properly with a good computer. Andy (iirc) Hppwdn is pretty good with boosted KLs. Look him up and see what he has done. He has used both built and stock turbo set-ups.

EZ_4_FUN wrote:Dilema, dilema...

Some of you already know that I threw another rod, literally days after installing the new ZE. It goes without saying, I was very dissapointed after all the hours spent on it last summer.

Well, the days are getting nicer and most importantly, longerrrrr...

I've been compiling some parts over the winter:

Slim line fans
Clevite main and rod bearings
Sub
Spare motors ...lol

Here is my dilema. We all know the ZE runs a higher compression than the DE. From what I've read, you can get more power from DE at 10 psi than a ZE at 8psi.

What do I do. Repair the ZE or just drop in the DE in its place?

I'm just trying the avoid another rod going. I wasn't running much boost at all; maybe 5-6 psi on bth ZE's and they both ahd the same result.

Anyone have any ideas what else could be the culprit? I see so many guys running stock internals on boosted apps, so i question if my MSQ is the problem? I did have a few passes on the Dyno and it appeared to be fine other than the WG opening up too soon.

ZE or DE?

What? how did it blow at 5 psi? I have been fine for the past 2 years and beating the crap out of my ze....

I think something else went wrong..I would replace that wastegate..

Old or not, it should be able to handle a minimum amount of boost which is what im after.

Once i can get some reliability from it, then i'll spend what ever it takes into the internals.

I don't think its the wastegate. I threw a rod on the dyno with the wastegate opening up at 4k rpm ( in other words prematurely) and on the road by simply letting the tires break loose.

Im thinking over run/decel issues. Pretty sure its bucking hard enough when im off the gas to cause rod fractures, so its a question of settings in MS and not the physical setup.

Thats my thought but I should ask some of the gods over in PT.