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a little update for now...

I made my deposit yesterday, have the recipt and the engines serial number on it as well. so we did a compression check and all the clyinders measures 210 psi accros the board. And we did a leakdown as well and it had less than %5 leakage in every cylinder.

So now im stoked. by next wednesday ill be dropping my car off to get the swap done. I just have to wait untill my bulley clutch comes in. its gunna be sick.

Alright, so i got my ze in last week. They finished friday night. There were a cupple things Japan Power didnt do so well on.

1st off the worst thing would be that they either hooked up the pwr steering wrong and now i have a air leak or something. Or they sold me and engine with a crapy pump. seeing as how my power steering is randomly cutting in and out. im going there tommorow and there fixing it free of charge.

2nd. as i left i noticed they didnt tighten the shifter linkage so i had crazy bad ssd. (sloppy shifter syndrome) Got them to fix it there.

3rd. It took them 3 days!

4th. There pretty messey.


other than that im happy with the swap and Japan Power were pretty good and did alot of extra things for me for no extra cost. The thing is a beast! I cant wait to modd it up. Here are a cupple pics of the engine.



it may be dirty, but like they say...... Dont jude a book by its cover.




And here is what the inside of the engine is like. sorry i could get one witht the valve cover off but everything else is just as clean. Its just as clean or even cleaner that solo_ryder's picture.




i think i should start a work log..

Wow nice stuff mate. Good to see a thread with the discussion and results posted all in one shot. How does it drive? Do you have to run it in for long? I hear heaps of ppl saying to run it in but it's a used engine so surely you'd think after a couple hundred kms it'd be fine to let the lead foot down right?

Its like night and day compared to the k8.

Ive done about 300klm so far and i havnt ran it hard yet, only because ive got a new clutch and i gotta break it in. Its half kevlar and half normal and kevlar takes longer to break it in. so once the clutch breaks in ill be changing the oil with some royal purple and a nice zr1 oil filter.

I wouldnt think you'd have to break in the engines seeing as how they are used but they do sit for some time so going easy on the first off may be a good idea.

solo_ryder wrote:KLDE = KL-1A1 and KL-101
KLZE = KL31-1A1 and KL31-101

Straight neck = KL31 cams
Curved neck = KL01 cams
DE = KL01 cams

That is all there is to know, check the head codes for the '31' and you are golden

so since the curved neck ze has the same cams as the de, would it be advantageous to get the kl31 cams in the straight neck ze (since the kl31 cams have more lift and duration)?

The ZE with KL31 cams is SLIGHTLY more powerful and the peak torque occurs at a slightly higher RPM. I have said all along that all other things being equal, I don't think the average MX-3 owner (or Probe GT or MX-6 or 626) would be able to tell the difference by the seat of his pants.

And you won't have to swap Intake Manifolds or modify the straight neck manifold to fit the KL01 ZE in your car.