He's right, the kl31/36 will not supply proper vris points for any curve neck, and your actually not getting all your power (dyno proven), as your vris is kicking in at the wrong time since you have the wrong points.Nd4SpdSe wrote:It's not about the cams, but it's a problem with anyone, either 01 or 31 cams, who is using the curved-neck intake manifold. The VRIS points are configured accorind to the IM, not the cams, I'm farily sure, but it could be true that the cams are taken into consideration because of the fact that they would have the 31 cams with the straight neck. People have been runing 31/36 ECU's on ZE'd with 01 cam'd Mx-3's for years. Not to say you wont run right or fast, oh and she'll still kick, it's just that it's not configured 100% according to what the ECU is setup for. That's the reason why some people are obsessed with getting 31 cam'd straight neck in Mx-3's...Although you can get a Probinator ECU configured for your, or any, setup, what will actually usually yeild more gains above that is a megasquirt systemMooneggs wrote:so are you saying that I have the wrong ECU? what are people who have kl-01 cams supposed to do LOL???!
my vris kicks in at around 4400 then again around 5500 and man does it KICK - so is my theory correct based on those facts?!!!
I fixed this issue with mine by making my own vris controllers, by using 2 msd digital window switches. which allows me to play around with the settings to see what the best points are. Vris has alot of cool little tricks you can do to shift power, and yes even help your fuel efficency out more (3+ mpg on a ZE). Is it worht spending the money to do this? Only if you can justify about 120 dollars for a few ponies a lil more torque and if you feel like playing with your settings around 3mpg fuel, if you cant, then keep your stock setup, as your not missing out on that much.
