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Just got another Email re 96 KLZE swap and other than adjusting the tps and reseting the idle Paul Hoffman said he didn't do anything else. The car ran great, not rich at all good gas mileage and in Canada he had it classed as a Hot Rod and it passed the emmissions test no problems. I gotta tell ya I'm order my engine tomorrow, the engine will be out of the car within the next few days and if I can get the ZE inand running soon maybe I'll make the Woodstock Meet and Greet

Daninski wrote:Just got another Email re 96 KLZE swap and other than adjusting the tps and reseting the idle Paul Hoffman said he didn't do anything else. The car ran great, not rich at all good gas mileage and in Canada he had it classed as a Hot Rod and it passed the emmissions test no problems. I gotta tell ya I'm order my engine tomorrow, the engine will be out of the car within the next few days and if I can get the ZE inand running soon maybe I'll make the Woodstock Meet and Greet

So looks like you'll beat me to it... I've got paintball and a cottage weekend coming up, but first thing after that it's a go for me.

Looking for a mx6 or 626 trans, need to see whats compatible with a 96 MX-3. Was offered a LSD trans but the guys real busy and hasn't gotten back to me yet so I may be on hold till I hear from him.

While waiting for parts to come in for my ZE swap, I did some serious work on my carputer setup. Here's what I've got so far:

2ghz VIA C7 w/1GB ram, 120GB disk running Debian Linux (sid)
USB GPS with accelerometer (for HP estimates, skidpad, etc)
USB OBD-II link
7" double-din SVGA touchscreen
Mini USB keyboard and Logitech SpaceNavigator (volume/track selection)
7 channel homebuilt Tripath amplifier (6x100 watts @ 0.1%THD, 1x200 watt @ 0.1%THD)
12->24VDC SMPS power converter/regulator for amplifiers
8 channel USB soundcard (Gigaport AG)
USB ground loop isolator with external battery pack/relay activated charger
Infinity Kappa 60.7CS components (front)
Infinity Kappa 63.7i (rear)
Generic 2x10" sealed subwoofer (soon to be JL audio)

All audio channels are independently driven using a Linux ALSA software crossover (ladspa butterworth filters). The crossover points and Q value are controllable on-screen in realtime. Also has a 16-band graphic EQ.

I developed the interface software myself in perl (yeah, yeah). Here are some screen shots:

Main interface, with options menu open:


Track/Album selection window (buttons at top act like Sony T9 input):


Crossover configuration. Those graphs are all accurate btw.


For GPS, I suspend and resume a vmware session running iNavigator. It shares the sound card with my media player perfectly, so gives audio directions as well.

As my system is linked to the engine computer with an OBD-II USB interface, I've also got ScanTool installed to monitor engine conditions and read trouble codes. I'm currently working on a perl module to read the information directly and present it on the main interface, as well as using vehicle speed to dynamically adjust volume.

It detects my phone via bluetooth and logs on the 'net when I get in the car. No call answering yet (I use BT handsfree for that).

The SpaceNavigator is a USB HID device that I mounted on the dash. I removed the right center vent (plugging it with a rubber stopper) and made a custom mount for the spacenavigator (metal base removed). It looks very cool and stock.

It performs tons of actions, such as volume control, track forward/back, fast forward/reverse, mute, playlist manipulation, etc. In fact, I use the touchscreen very rarely now.

Unfortunately I don't have a pic of it installed, but here's the device I'm talking about:



All and all, it's coming along nicely.

Ok, I meant to take some pics before I started ripping out the engine but forgot to bring my camera. If you haven't started could you take some close up engine pics and send them to me? I have a couple of other mx's to look at but the 96 is unique so pics will help when reinstalling. If you have any problems let me know, power steering line bolt came off pump real easy. Shifter bolt needed an pnematic impact chizel to hammer out so apply penitrant to it asap to give it time to soak. If you that guy who can build an OBD2 to 1 adapter please Post the particulars. I have a spare OBD1 ecu plug set (3 plugs) I could use and I could sent you one as well if you decide to go with the adapter. Cheers Dude

Daninski wrote:Ok, I meant to take some pics before I started ripping out the engine but forgot to bring my camera. If you haven't started could you take some close up engine pics and send them to me? I have a couple of other mx's to look at but the 96 is unique so pics will help when reinstalling.

Ah, thanks for reminding me... I gotta borrow someone's digicam because phonecam pics just ain't gonna cut it. I'll take pics at the start, finish, and each step, and post them to this thread as I go.

If you have any problems let me know, power steering line bolt came off pump real easy.

Glad to hear that .. I was a little worried. Did you have any trouble with the A/C?

Shifter bolt needed an pnematic impact chizel to hammer out so apply penitrant to it asap to give it time to soak.

Actually I bought a replacement shift control linkage from a junkyard. Last year when I did my short shifter I tried to get that bolt out, and even with 500lb of puller force, it wasn't going anywhere. I'm planning to just cut it off with a grinder (not in great shape anyway).

If you that guy who can build an OBD2 to 1 adapter please Post the particulars. I have a spare OBD1 ecu plug set (3 plugs) I could use and I could sent you one as well if you decide to go with the adapter. Cheers Dude

Well I really wanna stay with OBD-II now since it's linked with my carputer. But here's his contact info:

Michael Perry (admin@xtremethings.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
http://xtremethings.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm going to try adjusting the TPS, throwing on a 45PSI FPR and maybe a KL02 VAF. See how it runs. I'm good with electronics so if the difference between the JE50 and KL02 is only voltage, I can rig something up. If it's more than that (ie. port size) I'll buy a KL02 later.

I'll keep you posted.

Excellent, a pictures worth a thousand words (who said that). I'm going over today to try again to get that damn axel nut off or I'll buy a dremel tool and cut it. I PM's Ryan pleading with him to do a OBD2 chip. I don't think it's going to happen tho.

PS I'll compare the JE50 to the KL02 tonite and let you know.

PPS When I bought the car I wondered why the A/C didn't come on when I pushed the button, I just looked and found out why. No A/C. lol Someone took out the A/C so no it wasn't a problem.

KL02 VAF's only work with stock or stock chipped ECU's and the JE50 VAF's only work with KL31/36 ECU's and A-spec MX3 ECU's. The JE50 and KL02 VAFs are pretty much mechanically the same, but they throw different values to the ECU for air temp and air volume. Both the resistance values and voltages thrown are different. I measured them and the size seems to be the same. I'll try both and see which one works the best. I still haven't got tht damn nut off my axel yet so you have time to catch up. (I'd prefer to read about your mistakes first before I make them. lol).

Daninski wrote:KL02 VAF's only work with stock or stock chipped ECU's and the JE50 VAF's only work with KL31/36 ECU's and A-spec MX3 ECU's. The JE50 and KL02 VAFs are pretty much mechanically the same, but they throw different values to the ECU for air temp and air volume. Both the resistance values and voltages thrown are different. I measured them and the size seems to be the same. I'll try both and see which one works the best. I still haven't got tht damn nut off my axel yet so you have time to catch up. (I'd prefer to read about your mistakes first before I make them. lol).

Hmmf. It would be interesting to measure the values over all the ranges and create a resistor network. I could probably build them, with connectors, for like $25 a piece, for anyone else doing the conversion.

I spent most of tonight cleaning my new engine up with degreaser. It's lookin pretty good. As it turns out though, all the fuel lines (including the metal ones) need to be replaced.. they were all bent or damaged when the engine was removed.

Journal moved to first comment.

sounds like a great start! took me 4 days total.
What exaust mani are you using?

JoshVK wrote:sounds like a great start! took me 4 days total.
What exaust mani are you using?

EBay headers I got for like $200 shipped. They look pretty nice.. decent quality welds.. heavy steel. We'll see how well they hold up.

I'm a little concerned about the fit (downpipe alignment off by about 1cm), but I think it'll be ok.

Here's a link to the same item:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exhaust- ... enameZWD1V" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ya I got my 1.8 out and the engine well dosen't look bad. I swaped out the stock struts and springs for better ones so now it's pull the ZE out of the other car and we're in business. Unlike you my tools are in a pile, lol. I think just to replace all the wearable parts e.g. hoses, belts gaskets, crush washers, new o2 sensors, valve and intake gaskets I'm looking at $500.+ Then there's the exhaust. I'm kind of lucky, I have all the tools one could ask for. I've done almost everything by myself so far now I'm looking forward to the install. Hey dont forget about those pics ok. Later.

Those headers look pretty nice. For the price even if they lasted 3 years it would be worth it.

Just got an Emai from timpronk. Here the best site so far to buy a VRFPR. Remember my post that one of the items recommended for our 96's to run right is a fuel pressure regulator set to 45psi. Here's a link to the best one I've seen so far, inexpensive to compared to $250-300 on other sites. Cheers Dude http://www.cosmoracing.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

PS Got those pics yet.