MX-3.com

What motor mounts are you using max?

no botom line.
dang dude thats the parts i want for my kl trans.
i have run both at the track. with the k8 trans the wheel spin was inpossable to control the best i could do was 10.05 in the 8th
with the kl trans & no lsd wheel spin is controlable and the best so far 9.60 and one 9.40
the mx6 wheighs more and can use the lower gear ratio. mx3 is lighter and the taller ratio can better use the engines torque.
the sensation of speed is awsome it pulls so hard in 2nd with the kl trans.
1 more thing to consider in the 1/4 mile the k8 may have and advantage in 3rd & 4th gears when wheel spin is not a factor.
but the gasmilage and crusing rpm is nice.
i would love to buy your lsd and zx2 gear set if you decide on the k8 ratio

this is about my car

his aint no honda forum.
kl s make torque
enuph torque not to need the extra mechanical advantage of lower gearing.
the lower gear ratio amplifies the torgue so much you get lotts of wheelspin
if you have a race preped car with lots of traction to he lower gear ratio would be the logical choice. but most of us have street cars.
it sux to try and pull away from a light and spinn your tires when you dont mean to.
[ hondas make little torque]

this is about input from customers

i welded 1/8 " plate steel to the torque mounts and upper strut mounts.also srd dirlin control arm bushings. and trans crossmember bushings
no wheel hop!

also new struts n front and rased rear springs 3"

mxmaz wrote:What motor mounts are you using max?

do you drag regularly?
peformed any tracion adding mods?

I'm one of the advocates who believes the 4.11 makes for a faster accelerating MX3.

The broad torque & HP curve the engine produces allows the car to accelerate longer in each gear.

IMVHO the stock gearing on the mx3 is retardedly short, a mistake mazda made. The longer gears are better suited for a KL. The shorter gears, for a K8.

WHen you compare a probe to a MX3..yes they have the same final drive, but probes = taller wheel/tire combo.

WHen I swapped in all my 4.11 LSD crap, the car didn't "feel" faste,r but the difference at the track was noticeable. IMO Its mainly b/c the torque/powerband in 4th gear didn't top out VS the 4.39.

When in the 1/4 with the 4.39, you are damn near topping out all ur power in 4th to the point where you have to upshift. But with the 4.11 you are still revving to the sweet power spot before you cross the line...while going faster in MPH doing it

Gro Harlem wrote:I'

The broad torque & HP curve the engine produces allows the car to accelerate longer in each gear.

yes! that the sectince i could not find the words to describe that is thats wat i have been tryn to say.

I have the stock MX3 tranny and last time I went to the track I had to shift into fifth. That's a huge pain. But I was also trapping 113mph.

If I could get an MX6 tranny and put it in I may be able to launch a little better, get down the track a little quicker, and maybe contain the run into 4 gears instead of 5.

I put an MX6 tranny in my old probe and it did wonders at the track.

I have been pondering the issue of different ratio transmissions for awhile. I believe I was perusing one fellow's website when I found that he got rid of the higher ratio transmission because he found that running the engine consistantly under 3000 rpm on the highway led to carbon fouling the plugs. Maybe he had other issues, but should this be a concern? I personally think the taller ratios would better suit the ZE, so I want to switch transmissions too when I swap, but not to hurt the engine.

he had other issues .

My racebox is currently living in someone elses car thats actully
competing in the Dunlop NZ Targa Rally.

it runs the 4.11 gearseat with a 4.11 mazspeed lsd.
How ever 5th has been removed to add a case saver
fine for dragracing but open road competion its a pain.
but stop's third gear spitting the dummy so well worth the
pain.

Im also on this box running a bellhousing plate that sadwiches
betwwen the block and gearbox and it picks up the front mount
for extra beef and also the rear diff case to support the axail load.

also running the mazspeed uprated shifter forks which are
a lot more beefier than stock and have'nt bent under race loads.\

Also has been drilled and tapped for a earls oil cooler which has a
electric pump to cerculate oil as temp kills the boxes.

ok so its not something stock but its running well and taken a lot
of abuse and still running well.

max kl wrote:how much nos have you used? or turbo?
have you experinced 250+ wheel hp?
sorry i assume peaple read the bottom of the post.

but yes even with out nos the wheelspin was horrable. and i think it sux to lanch at idle and not hit wot till 3rd gear.

the Kumho Ecsta 711 are beter than the bfg ta radials i had before
kumo v710 the are auto cross tires but hook well i cant wait to get to the track
next bfg gforce drag radials

dont tell me you had the BFG Radial TAs on there and say they suck, they are PASSENGER car tires, of course the 711s are better than those, i had the 711s and wheel spin was horrible, went to G-Force TA KDWs and they are leaps and bounds better than any kumho i have ever had and i have never had an issue with pulling away from a light and lighting up the tires when i didnt mean to

kiwi_MX3 wrote:My racebox is currently living in someone elses car thats actully
competing in the Dunlop NZ Targa Rally.

it runs the 4.11 gearseat with a 4.11 mazspeed lsd.
How ever 5th has been removed to add a case saver
fine for dragracing but open road competion its a pain.
but stop's third gear spitting the dummy so well worth the
pain.

Im also on this box running a bellhousing plate that sadwiches
betwwen the block and gearbox and it picks up the front mount
for extra beef and also the rear diff case to support the axail load.

also running the mazspeed uprated shifter forks which are
a lot more beefier than stock and have'nt bent under race loads.\

Also has been drilled and tapped for a earls oil cooler which has a
electric pump to cerculate oil as temp kills the boxes.

ok so its not something stock but its running well and taken a lot
of abuse and still running well.

i blew another differntal this week and i had to insall one of my k8 trannies.
so is the masda speed lsd very strong? is there any thing i can doo to improve my trans?
i steped up to a 150 shot and wana keep going to 200 shot. but a blown tranny every 2 weeks suks.


o papa yea bfg suk the kumo 710 work very nice. the less sticky compound prevents breaking axles like i do with drag radials. the advantage of the drag radial is having tread cop & rain dont like slicks.
[710s have no tread]

The stock diff is as weak as poo.

has yours sheared right through where the pinion stub goes?

The Mazspeed LSD is a lot thicker in the cross section, most common
problem on probetalk is shearing the rivets, most get the ring gear
welded to the diff which is stupid as caststeel welded to harden steel
does'nt work.

needs to be machined to accpet the speedo drive.

Ive got ARP bolts running though the diff and ring gear inbetween the
rivets. 3/8's ones

as you read my setup is a over engineered one, but it works.

kiwi_MX3 wrote:
The Mazspeed LSD is a lot thicker in the cross section, most common
problem on probetalk is shearing the rivets, most get the ring gear
welded to the diff which is stupid as caststeel welded to harden steel
does'nt work.

needs to be machined to accpet the speedo drive.

Ive got ARP bolts running though the diff and ring gear inbetween the
rivets. 3/8's ones

YOu have any pictures of what you did to yours with the bolts/rivets? I was going to get mine welded but i guess that's not a good idea?

looks like i broke teeth of of the spider gears and then broke the speder gear shaft.

is there and diff that is stronger?