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Posted: June 19th, 2006, 9:22 pm
by 10secSim
Hey!! I work with a sand blaster once in a while and it doesn't take off any metal unless you let it blast at the same spot for a long time...it will take off every thing but the metal

Posted: June 20th, 2006, 1:06 am
by illapino
so i've summoned a new option:
instead of repainting my holey hood for $500,
how about I just get a carbon fiber hood for about the same price?

Can carbon fiber hoods come in color (red) or be painted a color, or must they be black? carbon fiber red would be nice . . . :idea:

Posted: June 22nd, 2006, 11:47 am
by colony
guys , forget the idea of sandblasting or grinding the hood
the hoods made nowadays are only a thin sheet of steel that lays down on rubber tits between the hood frame and the top sheet that u see from the exterior

i suggest one product for stripping all the paint is that aircraft paint remover: Brand : Mar-Hyde
Prod. name : Tal-strip

a very aggressive product that realy hurts on skin
but will make peel paint as well as if u did drop brake oil on the paint
neutralises easily with water( rince thoroughly; excuses for any writing faults)

and to answer the CF thing about paint i just believe that cf is unpaintable right?


and for the pearl color and the match thing i suggest one thing: if u plan on doing all the rust spots try to think of a new color instead of matching
all theese spots.I say that because u may be overcharged for the work that is asking for matching so many spots.
only my advice though , but i work in a bodyshop ,just hope advice help ya guys out!

Posted: July 5th, 2006, 5:52 pm
by Silkwyrm
Media blasting would be safer than sand blasting, however, if the person knows what they are doing the amount of metal lost by sandblasting should be nothing of consequence. The thickness of the paint is likely to be between 5 and 15 mils. If the paint is on the low end of that thickness, you (or the shop you take it to) may actully be better off removing the paint from the rusted areas only, etch primeing, filling, smoothing, fill priming then wet sanding the damage areas, then scuff the rest and repaint your hood. If you do this you may want to scuff your fenders to blend into them for a better looking color match. As for a new hood, definitely less work, but you will have to compare costs, if theres a lot of rust the new hood may be more economical. New OEM and most aftermarket hoods come preprimed and that primer is actually about the best primer you can get. Do not strip this! Have heard some shops do this and prime it themselves. Thats just silly. As I'm writing this I realize that much of this is stuff an inexperienced person probably shouldn't try without doing more research and getting some practice on scrap pannels or something. Keeping in mind the things above, Take it to a shop get their opinion. What they say should be similar to the above and they will be able to break down the costs involved.

Posted: July 6th, 2006, 9:01 am
by Silkwyrm
Looks like I posted before reading all the posts. Yeah if your looking at $500 in rust repair your better off getting a new hood. And Yes Carbon fiber can be painted think of it as just another kind of fiberglass. Most people dont paint it because they either like the look or want to show off the fact that they bought a cool aftermarket CF part.

I dont know what body shop Colony works at but The shop I worked in and any others I know wouldn't paint spots on a hood. Chances are that would look like crap. You paint the whole hood, and unless your color match is perfect, blend in the fenders and maybe paint the bumper cover.

Posted: July 8th, 2006, 4:24 am
by Vanished
If you want a new hood, either get a junked hood, or a fiber glass aftermarket hood with some kind of scoop. It'll cool down your engine bay alittle, and you can paint it.

Painting carbon fiber is the most pointless thing in the world, unless your looking for weight reduction only but most guys dont' really car about that in a hood.