Wheel bearings

happyclown · Post by **happyclown** » February 22nd, 2006, 11:41 am

So I've started taking things apart...and now I'm kind of stumped.
I've got the breaks all off but what do I do now?
Do I just take out the large bolt in the middle (RED)? Or Do I start undoing the other bolts (BLUE)?

Thanks

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 22nd, 2006, 12:19 pm

Do the red nut FIRST. You'll probably need to put the spare tire on to do it. You'll need a tire with the center missing and let the car back down to undo it. You'll probably need to punch out the tab on the outside of the nut to get it to turn.

After, and only AFTER, you get the center nut off, then you can remove the bolts at the blue corners.

happyclown · Post by **happyclown** » February 22nd, 2006, 2:22 pm

Thats one tough a-- bolt

Is the tab your talking about the thing in the center? The inner lip of the nut was bent in to fit into that tab, I punched it out and I still cant get that mother off.

I'll go crank on it some more, but I'm thinkin I need a bigger bar.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 22nd, 2006, 2:28 pm

If it's rusted even slightly, you might need more drastic measures if you don't have air tools. On my wife's car this week, I had to GRIND the nut off with a Dremel. I just hacked a seam right along the axis that notch was on. Once I got about half way down, it was enough for the bolt to break loose. Don't waste excess time wrenching it. You should have a 2 foot breaker bar. If you're standing on it, and it still doesn't break loose, grind the mother some more.

ccreech · Post by **ccreech** » February 22nd, 2006, 3:33 pm

Yeah, those things can be a biatch! We had a breaker bar with a cheater pipe and 2 guys standing on one and it wouldn't budge. Go to a shop get them to pop it loose with air and then put it back on snuggly enough but not too snug. That is what I had to do to mine.

I never thought about the spare tire Idea. That is really smart. Keeps the hub from rotating so you don't need someone standing on the brakes or anything. BRILLIANT!!!

happyclown · Post by **happyclown** » February 22nd, 2006, 4:22 pm

w00t

got it off

Found a 7 foot pipe and used that as a breaker bar to pop the biatch off!

So now I just have to take out the bolts that hold on the strut assembly, tierod, and crossmember? Then I can get that whole assembly out?

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 22nd, 2006, 4:30 pm

The major points of attachment should be obvious. Castle nut on the tie rod end, two 17mm bolts on the underside, 2 17mm bolts on the strut ..... then if memory serves, you'll need to get the caliper bolts off too.

happyclown · Post by **happyclown** » February 22nd, 2006, 8:16 pm

So I left my tools out when I went to class. I came back to start and take those top bolts off. They were on there pretty good, so I was using that cheat bar. From being outside my tools were frozen and I busted it.

So I borrowed a friend's ratchet to use. That didn't last to long either.

The second one has a lifetime warrenty, so I'll be able to finish it tomorrow...hopefully.

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » February 22nd, 2006, 8:44 pm

WTF !!

im not loaning you any of my tools

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 22nd, 2006, 8:54 pm

You should get a non-ratcheting breaker bar for the initial break of bolts. Then, throw the ratchet on to get it the rest of the way off. That's how I do all my automotive bolts to save my tools.

happyclown · Post by **happyclown** » February 22nd, 2006, 10:32 pm

yeah, funny thing was I was 'pretending' to steal one from napa while I was pickin up the 32mm socket. They offered to let me borrow their too

Kinda wish I did, cause I don't think Wal-Mart warrantys their tools (stanley)

Oh well, Im takin that napa one that I broke down to get replaced for him. Maybe I'll be able to scarf up a few bucks for my own breaker bar.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 23rd, 2006, 9:30 am

I think my 24" was only $20.

happyclown · Post by **happyclown** » February 23rd, 2006, 2:11 pm

So I got a 17" breaker bar for $20, busted the stepdown that I got, had to buy a 17mm with the 1/2"drive. Finally got it off. Now Im having trouble with another bolt. I think I've only got two left before I can get the whole thing out.

The red arrow bolt is the one that broke three tools. Its off now...
The blue arrow bolt is hidden under that cap I think. I picked at it with a knife but its not commin off. Are there any tricks to getting that cap off? and that is the correct bolt right?
The green arrow is the 14mm bolt that goes horisontally through a clamp thing. Im havin a hell of a time with that one too. I think Im strippin it with the 14mm socket and I think I need a deep socket for it. Am I takin off the correct one?

Sorry about all the questions for such a simple replacment, but this would be the first hard repair that I've done all by my self.

You guys are a big help

Hopefully another noob lookin to fix/replace their wheel bearing will get help from this!

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » February 23rd, 2006, 2:22 pm

as for your blue arrow, that is the tie rod end, you dont get the cap off..... what you need is a "pickle fork" you slide it in underneith the little rubber boot and pry it out, there is also another easier tool you can get you slide it on and tighten the bolt and it will pop out the tie rod with no effort...... i guess you could try a huge screwdriver for prying but you most likely will damage the boot and i dont think that would work anyways

the bolt you are stripping is the pinch bolt for the ball joint, once you get that off you need the same pickle fork to pry the hub off the ball joint

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 23rd, 2006, 3:11 pm

For the blue, there should be a nut on the underside shaped like a rook piece from chess. You need to take the cotter pin out to undo it. There is no 'hidden nut'.

For the green, there should be two 17mm nuts to hit. One has a 17mm on the bolt and 17mm on the nut. Then, there's another one that should only be a 17mm nut, because the bolt on that is an acutual part of the hub.