Fluctuating idle, bucking and stalling.

Shades · Post by **Shades** » August 21st, 2005, 6:46 pm

From my research, I have found that 3 wires is for manual, and 4 wire is for automatic.

kingfd · Post by **kingfd** » August 22nd, 2005, 2:40 am

Ah that answers that question then. Thank you.

Buckminster · Post by **Buckminster** » August 23rd, 2005, 11:24 am

I just had a complete tune up done and I had the throttle body cleaned using something called C foam and it actually madethe problem worse. Did it turn out to be the gasket then?

kingfd · Post by **kingfd** » August 25th, 2005, 7:27 am

I haven't put it back together yet. I'm waiting on a new IAC seal from Japan should be here next week. I'll let you know how it goes.

When you say it made it worse as far as cleaning the TB goes, what did it do?

kingfd · Post by **kingfd** » September 11th, 2005, 1:46 am

Well I finally got round to putting it back together again. New IAC seal and TB gasket. Unfortunately now it won't start at all. Turns over fine, but no start. Pulled the leads and looks as though I'm not getting any spark on any of them. Looks like I'll have to look at the distributor again before I find out if the seals I replaced where the cause of the problem.

kingfd · Post by **kingfd** » September 18th, 2005, 12:12 am

Well an update.

Checked out the distributor to see what was causing no spark and found that the incoming lead from the coil had come loose. Took it apart and recrimped it, cleaned the distributor out again put it back together and she started right up.

Took her for a fairly long drive down the highway and around a few streets close to home, up and down hills. There isn't any sign of the problems I was having......yet.

Will keep you posted.

kingfd · Post by **kingfd** » September 24th, 2005, 8:48 am

Well after driving around for a few days I have only just started to have a few issues. Car does not stall at all so i think replacing the TB gasket which I suspect may have been letting air through has been fixed. This was my major issue.

I still seem to have the same problem with the idle not being steady and hesitation while driving. I will be checking everything again over the next couple of days.

Is there a easy way of checking to see if my MAF sensor is working correctly?

Bumpysbro · Post by **Bumpysbro** » September 26th, 2005, 5:03 am

im having the same problem, it happens intermitently....ill start the car up idles under 1k then dies, start it up again does the same thing...then bam it works i drive it home. then i start it again and it dies while in the driveway...then my dad starts the car bam it works fine, i just replaced the water pump, 2 hoses and the ac belt and the alternator belt, but i think its a vacuum leak on a hose connected to my valve cover, it got cracked a lil while removing everything. if u have either a faulty hose or anything id check it

Buckminster · Post by **Buckminster** » September 30th, 2005, 11:28 am

My 93 rs does the same thing and I have done the same steps as you and what I am left with is a code that is saying the coolant temp sensor is f'd I am looking for a by pass type fix if you know any. Otherwise I am told it is a 160.00 part. and they are hard to get the right one for your particular engine.

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » September 30th, 2005, 11:49 am

I just replaced my coolant temp senosr - it is $28 at advance auto parts - here's the link - http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... ber=TSU166 - my engine is a 94 DOHC - but the website says the the sensor would fit SOHC engines as well. It is not hard to replace either.

kingfd · Post by **kingfd** » October 2nd, 2005, 6:10 am

My coolant temp sensor has been playing up as well. Sometimes never works. Have taken it out tonight. Will source a replacement tomorrow.

How do you check if it is working properly? it only has one pin. I guess the body is the ground?

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » October 2nd, 2005, 11:57 am

The coolant temp sensor that i replaced had a connector with two pins i think - anyways F1-162 on the manual shows how to test it -

ryanlindenberg · Post by **ryanlindenberg** » October 2nd, 2005, 8:57 pm

kingfd wrote:My coolant temp sensor has been playing up as well. Sometimes never works. Have taken it out tonight. Will source a replacement tomorrow.

How do you check if it is working properly? it only has one pin. I guess the body is the ground?

the temp sensor with only one pin is for the guage...you need the one with 2 pins for the ECU. it is located kinda close to the thermostat.

kingfd · Post by **kingfd** » October 4th, 2005, 5:09 am

ryanlindenberg wrote:
kingfd wrote:My coolant temp sensor has been playing up as well. Sometimes never works. Have taken it out tonight. Will source a replacement tomorrow.

How do you check if it is working properly? it only has one pin. I guess the body is the ground?
the temp sensor with only one pin is for the guage...you need the one with 2 pins for the ECU. it is located kinda close to the thermostat.

Oh ok I'll have a look tomorrow. My gauge has not been working properly, so this could mean that my coolant temp sensor could be fine? I'll check it anyway.

MX3driver · Post by **MX3driver** » October 5th, 2005, 12:01 am

Hey bud,
I never got to read all the other posts, so I'm replying just from reading yours. I just had the same problem with a ford explorer.. they did a million tests, from o2 sensors to fuel pump, to alternator, EVERYTHING.. and turned out, it was just that the catalytic converter was plugged to s---.. and that will destroy your manifold gasket, which will lead to shitty compression. I called him today to see if it would be a similar problem with your car.. and he said the first thing he'd do would be replace the cat.. that's if yours hasen't been replaced, an he also said that even if you did, and you just bought a universal, it could be the problem. Anyways, just letting you know.
Craig

MX-3.com

Fluctuating idle, bucking and stalling.

My rs has the same problem

weird coincidence