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mobil 1 10w30 synthetic

DavidOS wrote:mobil 1 10w30 synthetic

what he said.

gun oil.

kiwi_MX3 wrote:Castrol in the road car
Motul in the bikes
Mobil in the old race car...

Curious as to your choices. I would have thought that Motul would be your first coice for all vehicles followed by Mobil 1? Motul would be my first choice if it was readily available.
Bikes? What kind?

I ahve to say that I have tried this new "High Mileage" crap from castrol. IT SUCKS, made my engine run really bad for some reason But yea I agree that Mobil 1 is proly one of the ebst oils. I had bought some "Formula 1" oil from crappy tire and it seems to be pretty good....I dunno lol it's cheap.

I've got 10W40 in mine at the moment

dont suppose this will damage it, just might sap some power as the engine has to struggle moving it about and stuff?!?!

solo_ryder wrote:I ahve to say that I have tried this new "High Mileage" crap from castrol. IT SUCKS, made my engine run really bad for some reason But yea I agree that Mobil 1 is proly one of the ebst oils. I had bought some "Formula 1" oil from crappy tire and it seems to be pretty good....I dunno lol it's cheap.

Yeah I agree that castrol high milage also made my engine run like crap. Felt slower. I use regular castrol 10w-30, but I am thinking of tryong something different (diff brand).

Im currently trying to hunt down some Royal Purple Engine oil and Transmission fluid.

snellgrove wrote:I've got 10W40 in mine at the moment
dont suppose this will damage it, just might sap some power as the engine has to struggle moving it about and stuff?!?!

You've answered your own question. Of course it may damage it if it struggles to "move it about". A good quality 5w30 is more than adequate for your climate or even 5w40 if you regularly push it. That thicker weight oil (40) will only be as movable as (10). So when you fire it up first thing in the morning, that oil is sitting pretty thick and slow and guess what's not going to get to those oh so special areas that is so critical on engine starts because it is so thick. Granted you'll see benifits at the other side when it's very hot and under extreme stress, then the (40) is going to be an extra helper. As you're probably aware the hardest stress any engine will endure during the course of it's life will be engine starts. If that oil is not "moveable" enough to get to those critical areas (valve train etc) your engines life expectancy is seriously shorten. I'm sure that most have experienced that oh so noticeable valve train chatter on initial starts that eventually goes away (some faster than others) and quietens down. Of course that's the valve train telling you that it's still waiting for an adequate supply of oil to lubricate hence quiet the noise. The longer it takes for that noise (tick, whatever you call it) to go away is how long that valve train is enduring inadequate lubrication.

I've gotten quite familiar with this concept dealing with my air cooled Ducati. Taking it to the next level I diverted oil from the oil pressure sending unit directly to the valve / cam area and blocking the factory internal oil passage. By doing this the valve train got immediate oil on engine starts and cooled oil because the oil left the engine propper via external lines then returned directly to the valve train area.

I'm not saying to go to the next level, just that $$, brand, type and quality do make a difference. Especially if you intend on having a reliable daily driver that is going to last many many years.
More than .02 cents.

aye when I got the car it had very little oil in it, pretty close to the minimum

this i discovered half way on the way home ...stopped at a service (as in fuel / food etc, not dodgy garage kind of servicing) place, and couldn't work out what oil the car required.. so figured 10W40 would do, its a fairly safe guess!

the HLA's only click and tap for like 3/5 seconds when I first turn the car on, the previous owner was keen to point out that they never did it from cold at all, I've been VERY impressed with this example of an MX-3.. guess they only click now that I've put the heavier oil in.. but I can live with 5 seconds or so, I drive under 2000rpm until she's fully warmed up...

all the other MX-3's I looked at were noisy as hell when you first fired them up!!

but yeah, will be moving back to 5W30 or 10W30 (if 30 the cold number?) when it goes for a service.. which may be quite soon, actually.. just because I feel like it

Royal Purple...5W30 right now. It's Coooooold.

jschrauwen wrote:So when you fire it up first thing in the morning, that oil is sitting pretty thick and slow and guess what's not going to get to those oh so special areas that is so critical on engine starts because it is so thick.

As a side bar, to minimize the negative effect of cold morning start ups because we do experience some very cold weather, I've always had a block heater installed. The car is always "plugged in" whenever the temp is below 0c. By having a block heater the coolant is always kept at a specific temp. The spin-off is that the radiated heat from the coolant is transferred to other parts of the car, including the oil in the sump. By having the oil psuedo warm it is readily able to be pumped up to those critical areas through those ever so small oil journals when the engine starts. Thereby removing almost all possible harmfull wear on the valve train. Although in appearance a small thing to do, it's a very inexpensive way to maintain the integrity and funtionality of your car.
$.03 worth I think, this time......LOL

Mobil 1 Super Syn sucks. Both my Mazdas get lifter noise from using it. I run Royal Purple when I feel like running down to the Corvette shop that carries it around here, otherwise I pick up some Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 at Walmart while I'm in there.

yeah, Semi Synthetic in mine.. wont be touching Fully Synthetic I dont think