What kind of Oil and filter is everyone using?

[MarkMoore]

Oil Filter: Usually a Purolator or Fram... i try to use the mid-grade filter... just a notch up in quality than the regular ones

Oil: Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30

I also throw in a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer w/ each oil change. I've only heard GREAT comments about it, never a bad thing. It works amazing for me and has never given a problem. Thus, i'll probably never stop using it. The stuff is extremely thick like honey and, while of course it will get more liquified with the heat from the engine, the idea behind it is to cut down on the number one killer of engines... dry starts. Since normal oil is more liquidy and less "sticky",too much of it falls back down into the sump creating a lot of metal to metal contact(of course being the piston and the cylinder, and maybe a little bit of the camshaft and crankshaft, but most importantly the cylinder chambers in my assessment) when starting the car. However, the thick, honey-like Lucas stuff is formulated to do a better job coating the cylinder walls after shutting the engine down... which will help reduce start-up friction the next time you fire it up.

The ONLY bad things i've heard about Lucas has been on this forum... i asked people's opinions about it a couple months back on a thread and found some that liked it and a bunch who were skeptical. Interesting to note however, is that all of these skeptics had never tried it and thus had no bad experiences with it. Since they never even tried it they shouldn't have anything against it, but of course refused to be "shammed" by some "retarded gear display" in the auto store (Lucas has a little gear display to show the difference between gears working with the Oil Stabilizer, and gears working without it). I just wish people would give things a chance and actually TRY IT before bashing it, that's all. Even my dad thought i wasted my money when i bought it to use in my other car when it had a "tick" in the engine. However, when we started it up after the oil change and there was no more tick, he became a believer too.

P.S. note... however, if my car were a racing car, i would not use the stuff, as it might create even the slightest bit more friction in the engine due to it being thicker than regular oil. I'd just go w/ the thin 5w-30 stuff.

Just my 2 cents.

[Chiggles]

Back when I bought my ride 2 months ago, I had a few of the fluids flushed at the shop, so they gave me 5w30, Quaker State, I think. Don't know what my filter is at the moment. When I go for my oil change in the spring, I plan on switching it to synthetic. I was told Mobil 1 and Quaker State were pretty good. Does anyone have suggestions for oil brands as well as filters??

[MarkMoore]

look up to what i wrote, those are my suggestions

[MX-3.com]

It just goes to proove a point....

[guyaverage]

I use this:



My Mx3 now develops 82,000 lbs. of thrust at 35,000 feet.

Ok, not really.....

Purolator filters and Mobile 1 in all my vehicles. Fluids (auto tranny included) get changed every 10k miles or so.

Using a Fram filter is like buying used underwear. On the other hand, I dont specifically know anyone who has had a problem with them. Open one up, you'll see they really are put together like crap. They are probably ok for 3000 mile changes, I wouldnt push one further than that personally, from what I have seen.

Good write-up on filters:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

A few years back when I was in school I was driving 120 miles a day round trip. I inherited an '84 Accord from my dad. It had 220k miles at the time. I used the cheapest filters I could find, and I used USED motor oil. I drained the Mobil 1 out of the Mx3 and put it in a milk jug, and turned around and used it in the Honda (I was TRYING to kill that car.. I had an Rx7 turbo II in the garage I was dying to make my daily driver again.... the wife drove the Mx3). At 290k the Honda was still running fine, had good compression, and passed Ohio's emission test. Thats after 70k miles on *used* oil. Then a couple deer jumped out and killed the car.

Some of the higher end synthetics have been shown to be fine even after 20k miles of use. Most non-synthetics, even the "cheap" or store-brand ones, will be perfectly fine for most people who do regular 3k-5k interval changes.

Most pro mechanics will tell you, they have seen plenty of engine failures due to LACK of oil, and probably none they can attributed to the BRAND of oil.

[masonholmes]

Mobil-1 synthetic 5w30 and whatever looks like the best filter at the time. Yea, throwing any oil in that's there will get the job done, but isn't the wisest of choices, lol.

[papa roached]

Castrol Syntec 5w-30 + Purolator filters

[papa roached]

I find it odd that everyone dumps so much money into their engine on performance stuff. But feel the need to get the cheapest oil available. Maybe thats just me though.

the most important thing is you change the oil, not that its the high $ stuff

[andy]

oil= whatever is on sale, 10w30
filter= cheapest ZR-1 filter

Thats been my moto since new, except for the filter, I have only been using ZR-1 filters for several years. I change the oil every 3000 miles.
150,000 miles later and still runs like new. Never any HLA noise or friction gear noise. doesn't burn any either. The second set of valve cover gaskets are beggining to leak.

Andy P. 93 GS