MX-3.com

They may have replaced them maybe. If you noticed a difference then it was a 300$ well spent, no? But what do I know

now, hydro lifters after alot of miles can collapse and not pump up all the way, they might have replaced lifters, then that might tell why you gained in power

Sam Baker wrote:are you serious?? cuz right after it was done, i felt a massive gain in power! like it was way more responsive, like it shoulda been. that $300 included gaskets and stuff, but still you're saying that they dont need to be adjusted after a lotta miles??

No, they don't ever, ever need adjusting. If the reciept says 'adjust' and there's hardly any parts cost on the reciept, they did you in the butt.

First rule if you absolutely NEED to have someone else touch the car is INSIST that you get the old replaced parts when they're done. I don't trust mechanics 9/10 times when they say they replaced something.

son of a B!TCH!
looked up my receipt and all it said was R&R Valve Cover Gasket... ...maybe that was a lot for labor, cuz i know it takes a long time to do. but why the increase in performance? it really felt like brand new parts in there, but no where on the papers does it say they replaced anything. i duno.. thats fishy.

The K8 and KLZE family of engines have Shim under bucket
Well my two Jspec have

When ANY! bucket cam engine clearance starts to excede 0.002"
past manufactors cam to bucket limit clearance they "Tick"

Go and buy or borrow
Four-stroke Performance tunning by A. Graham Bell.


Motors Like the Mitsubishi Evo series have hydrolic lifters and rev
out to 9000rpm with out any problems, think about that next time one
blitz's you at the lights!

Matt

ok nm.. i looked em up in the book and suposedly the caps that cover the valve springs/seat can collapse, and there are ways of fixing them. i duno what they did, but the engine did feel a whole lot better.. so whateva sorry for jacking the post lol

Thanks IanL for the informative post!

Found out a bit more:

The shims fit between the cam lobes and the tappets, which sit on top of the valve stems. They are available in about 0.05mm increments from 2.75mm to 3.70mm. They cost, in UK, the equivalent of US$ 11.50 each from Mazda.

To perform the check, you have to remove the valve covers and measure with a feeler guage. The tolerance is 0.001 inch (one thou) or 0.025 mm, so you HAVE to use the right shim.

To change a shim, you remove the appropriate camshaft cap bolts and screw a tappet depressor tool into the bolt holes, then use the tool to depress the tappet, pry the shim out and insert the new shim.

You have 24 clearances to check and up to 24 shims to change.

Not a trivial task!

yeah that doesn't seem very fun... But the thought of silent valvetrain might be worth it!

bubbaflaat wrote:yeah that doesn't seem very fun... But the thought of silent valvetrain might be worth it!

I have that with synthetic 5W30 changed once a year, a Mazda oil filter (changed at the same time) and my stock hydraulic lifters. My engine has done at least 90,000 miles, but more like 120,000 ( who believes the speedo on a used car?).

But new hydraulic lifters are about 5 times the cost of shims, so you may have a point

I use only Royal Purple oil and purolator pure one oil filters, and my lifters always tick. Its really bad at startup, but when a good supply of oil gets to them they aren't so bad, but you can still hear them.

what are some effects of running on a noisy valvetrain?

bmwm3guy wrote:what are some effects of running on a noisy valvetrain?

Just a few lost HP when ticking.

If i'm not mistaken the valves aren't opening all the way when the lifters are ticking. Correct?

bubbaflaat wrote:If i'm not mistaken the valves aren't opening all the way when the lifters are ticking. Correct?

Roger.