Need help with BP!!!

[Jteezy]

i have a BP and i've done everything and it just wont fire up, i need help from anyone with b series motor experience. i'll pay for beer,dinner,whatever, just please i need a hand to get my car on the road. Thanks.Peace

[natural born honda killer]

my guess would be your timing. most people that do engine swaps can never get it to fire up right away. 9 times out of 10 if the motor is good then its timing. make sure the disty is set right and then try again.

[OsoSlo z28]

agreed, double check the following:

timing marks on belt
plug wires are routed correctly
disty is not too advanced etc
rotor button sits on #1 plug when at TDC

[natural born honda killer]

HOLY CRAP i beat ashley to a question :p but yeah id say the timing is it and let us know what it was.

[Jteezy]

yea i really hope thats it because if not then i am puzzled and might just have to pay a mechanic which i really dont want to do because it takes away from the experience. But yea i've done everything, all thats left is do that timing and it never even crossed my mind about the rotor position at top dead center. Hopefully my battery will give off power cuz its getting drained from cranking it, i'll let ya'll know though. Peace

[Jteezy]

bad news, bent valves are the problem. I'm pretty pissed because i was told the motor was non interference,ahh there goes my next paycheck.Peace

[natural born honda killer]

damn man im sorry. trust me thats always been a thing i was worried about when ever i ever bought a motor. i hope it works out for you and better luck with the next motor.

[OsoSlo z28]

after digging around, the only 4cyl interference engines mazda made were the f2 and the f2t. the bp's are non-interference.

[Jteezy]

yea i dont know whats the deal because i heard it non interference, but i'm getting 90lbs compression in cylinder 1, 40 cylinder 2, 60 cylinder 3, 30 cylinder 4. Yea looks like i'm gonna have to rebuild the head.

[n_o_s_21]

sounds to me like your camshaft to crank is out. was the engine running b4 you bought it? was the timing belt broken or loose, if so, it could be that your exhaust and intake valves are opening at the wrong time. I happened to me in my Imark turbo.

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

Originally posted by OsoSlo z28:
after digging around... the bp's are non-interference...

This is correct info. Your engine is non-interference. Unlikely that you have bent valves.

Agree w/n_o_s_21 . Check your timing belt installation and DOHC pulleys for correct positioning. Sounds like they are mispositioned/off a tooth or two which would give you the wide variance you report in cylinder compression. Solution--reinstall the timing belt if it is new or install a new one if it is old. Old worn t-belts can allow a cam pulley to jump a tooth or a newly installed t-belt may have been put on allowing a cam pulley to slip out of correct positioning during the belt install.

Had this happen to me first time I installed a new timing belt on a DOHC motor-it is an easy thing to have happen. Same thing happened when I had a mech do a sloppy job replacing my t-belt on another car that was DOHC. G'luck.

[Jteezy]

yea maybe its my timing, i did redo it though. But now that i think about it i did take a cam pully off when i was swapping and i didnt put it back the the exact position i took it off, i kinda just slapped it on there, maybe this may be causing my valves to be closed or something, but i really dont think its a bent valve and i dont wanna dish out the cash on top of all the money i've wasted on the swap. Any suggestions, let me know.Peace

[OsoSlo z28]

where the cam gear goes, there's a little "v" that you mount it to. on one point, there is a dowel pin. the dowel pin must face the appropriate side. for instance, if it's on the intake side, it must point to the "I" on the cam gear, exhaust side, "E". the gears themselves are identical, which is why they MUST point to the right letter.

[Jteezy]

well i've done all i could, and it wont fire up. Re-did the timing,checked for spark,fuel,etc. I am stuck man and i guess will have to go to a mechanic. Sucks i dont really have anyone around here with b series motor experience, but at this point i really need my car. Everyone says its the valves but how can it be the valves if its non interference? any suggestions or anything post em up. Man i'm bummed......Peace

[LongJohn]

Here are a few things you can check...

Are you getting a spark? Take out a plug and set it againt the block or some other metal and see if it sparks when you crank.

Also, if you crank the engine with the plugs out, do you smell gas? There is probably a safer way to check this, and don't crank out too much gas.

What is the compression readings? If your compression is good, then your valves are not bent or anything like that. If your compression is crappy, then you have to investigate further to determine which of many things are wrong.

If you can't check these things, then your only hope is to take it to a mechanic.

Good luck!