KLZE - KLG4 crank swap

[Demonic1]

So a while back, I bought 2Fazed's old MX-3 GS...

It's not in the greatest shape, but it does have a true KL31 KLZE in it. (I know cause I checked and s---)

There were issues with the rear valve cover gaskets leaking oil (per normal). I didn't check the oil one day and got in a hurry to go do whatever I needed to do. I let it warm up for ~5 minutes and hopped in. I stomped the gas at the end of my driveway and immediately heard a nasty noise. I spun a rod bearing less than 100 feet from my house. Put the car in neutral and coasted in reverse back into my parking spot. It's sat there for about a year and I think it's about time to put it back on the road.

Last summer I disassembled the bottom half and pulled bearings for #6 and #3. The crank had some slight marking and the bearings spun clear around inside the rods.




I'm thinking about pulling the crank from a KLG4, measuring clearance, buying bearings, and throwing it in.

I don't have to worry about size differences on the oil pump or transmission, right?
Is there any worry about the Rod->Rod Bearing surfaces?
Do I need to replace the rods too?

[WhiteFinish]

If you only ran the car for a short while changes are your crank is still good.
How deep is the damage? Can you cut it with a nail?

The problem with a new crank is you also have the main bearings and bore suited for this crank.

Rods you can just leave in. No problem. Although if you have them out, I suggest to put new rings on them. It's only ~40$

[Demonic1]

The last picture, the left side of the crank surface looks like it got some damage from the actual spinning of the bearing. I think I might be screwed.
I didn't take any measurements while I had it open. And what kind of nail? Fingernail?

I figured that if I pulled/swapped a crank, I should be able to just use stock set of bearings. Since it wouldn't have any damage and should still be at OEM clearances.

I didn't really want to separate the heads from the block (to replace rings) because then I might as well replace a perfectly good headgasket. And bolts. And might as well get new 85.5mm pistons. And Carillo rods. And bored/sleeved...

I really just want to get it back to running cheaply/reliably so I can start working on the engine for my RS.